Thalias Hospitality

Thalias Logo 100
RESERVE

Malis

The Rich Tapestry of Khmer Cuisine

by

(By Arnaud Darc) Khmer cuisine, the heart and soul of Cambodia, is a culinary treasure trove that reflects the country’s rich history and cultural diversity. It’s a cuisine that resonates with flavors, textures, and aromas that tell stories of ancient traditions and modern innovations. As you explore the streets of Phnom Penh or the vibrant markets of Siem Reap, the essence of Khmer food invites you to indulge in a sensory journey unlike any other. A Glimpse into History Khmer cuisine dates back to the age of the Angkor Empire, around the 9th to 15th centuries. The royal chefs of Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, were known for their elaborate feasts that combined local ingredients with exotic spices brought in by traders. The influence of Indian, Chinese, and Thai cuisines is evident, yet Khmer food has managed to carve out its unique identity. One of my fondest memories is visiting the bustling Psar Chas (Old Market) in Siem Reap. The market, a cacophony of sounds and sights, offers a true taste of Cambodia. From the rich, aromatic curries to the crisp and tangy salads, every stall tells a story. I remember being captivated by the vendor preparing Amok, a traditional fish curry steamed in banana leaves. The creamy coconut milk combined with fragrant kroeung (a spice paste) was a revelation – a perfect harmony of flavors that danced on my palate. Characteristics and Singularities Khmer cuisine is characterized by its bold flavors and the use of fresh, local ingredients. Rice is a staple, often accompanied by an array of dishes that showcase the country’s agricultural bounty. Fish and seafood are prominent, thanks to the abundant waters of the Mekong River and Tonle Sap Lake. One of the defining features of Khmer food is the use of prahok, a fermented fish paste that adds a distinctive depth of flavor to many dishes. It might be an acquired taste for some, but once you get past the initial pungency, it opens up a world of umami richness. Unlike its Thai neighbor, which is known for its fiery heat, Khmer cuisine tends to be milder, focusing more on the balance of flavors. The sweetness from palm sugar, the sourness from tamarind and lime, the saltiness from fish sauce, and the bitterness from certain herbs create a complex but harmonious palate. Unique Dishes Among the many unique dishes, a few stand out as quintessentially Khmer: Amok Trey: This iconic dish is a must-try. The fish is marinated in kroeung and coconut milk, then steamed in banana leaves. The result is a delicate, custard-like consistency that melts in your mouth. Samlor Korko: Often referred to as the “stirring pot,” this hearty soup includes a mix of vegetables, meats, and kroeung. It’s a comforting dish that showcases the versatility of Khmer cooking. Bai Sach Chrouk: A popular breakfast dish, it features thinly sliced pork marinated in coconut milk and garlic, grilled to perfection and served with rice and pickled vegetables. Differentiation from Neighbors While Cambodian food shares similarities with its Southeast Asian neighbors, it stands out in several ways. Thai cuisine is known for its liberal use of chilies, while Vietnamese dishes often feature fresh herbs and clear broths. Khmer cuisine, on the other hand, focuses on creating depth and balance with fewer ingredients. A stroll through the night markets of Phnom Penh offers a culinary adventure that highlights these differences. You might find Lok Lak, a stir-fried beef dish served with a tangy lime and pepper dipping sauce, which reflects French colonial influences. Nearby, you can savor Nom Banh Chok, a beloved breakfast noodle dish with a green fish curry that is distinctly Khmer. Malis Restaurant: A Modern Tribute Malis Restaurant in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap plays a crucial role in preserving and innovating Khmer culinary traditions. Helmed by Chef Hong in Phnom Penh and Chef Chansokha in Siem Reap, Malis is dedicated to reviving lost recipes and celebrating the rich heritage of Cambodian cuisine, thanks to the inspirational efforts of Chef Luu Meng. Dining at Malis is an experience that engages all your senses. The ambiance, with its elegant decor and serene atmosphere, sets the stage for a memorable meal. Each dish is a work of art, meticulously crafted to honor tradition while embracing modern techniques. I recall a visit to Malis in Siem Reap, where  Chef Chansokha introduced me to a modern twist on the traditional Samlor Machu Kroeung, a sour soup made with tamarind and kroeung. The balance of flavors – sour, sweet, and spicy – was impeccable, and the presentation was simply stunning. A Culinary Journey Worth Taking Khmer cuisine is more than just food; it’s a journey through Cambodia’s history and culture. It’s a celebration of flavors, from the bustling markets of Phnom Penh to the refined elegance of Malis Restaurant. Each dish tells a story, each flavor a piece of the Cambodian heritage. At Malis, we are committed to preserving this legacy and inviting you to explore the rich tapestry of Khmer cuisine. Whether you’re a seasoned food lover or a curious traveler, the culinary delights of Cambodia are sure to leave a lasting impression. So next time you find yourself in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, take a moment to savor the flavors of Khmer cuisine. Let the aromas, tastes, and textures transport you to a world where tradition meets innovation, and every meal is a celebration of Cambodia’s culinary heritage.

Seize the Magic of Cambodia: An Unforgettable Two-Week Journey from Temples to Tropical Beaches

by

When it comes to exploring the enchanting landscapes of Southeast Asia, the Kingdom of Cambodia often takes the backseat. Yet, the truth couldn’t be more contrasting. This vibrant country, with its rich history, diverse culture, and stunning natural beauty, offers an unparalleled tourism experience, often underappreciated by many travelers. If you are seeking a new experience, filled with exploration and discovery, then a two-week trip to this captivating part of South East Asia promises an adventure beyond your wildest dreams. MUST TRY RESTAURANTS: At the end of each paragraph, you will find two different restaurants with varying cuisines which will be sure to please anyone’s tastebuds. Relish the Royal Splendor of Phnom Penh (Day 1-2) Kick start your Cambodian tour in the bustling capital city of Phnom Penh, affectionately known as the “Pearl of Asia”. This city, replete with a blend of Khmer and French influences, offers a unique amalgamation of tradition and modernity. Upon arriving, make it a point to visit the Royal Palace, a magnificent structure showcasing the epitome of Khmer and Buddhist architecture. Then, satiate your taste buds by trying out the local speciality: Amok, a delightful Cambodian curry cooked in banana leaves. For those with an adventurous palate, deep-fried tarantula makes for an intriguing option. The next day, delve into Cambodia’s chequered history by visiting the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. These sites, bearing remnants of the Khmer Rouge regime, provide a stark reminder of the four-year genocide that took place under Pol Pot’s reign. Yi Sang riverside : Delicious Chinese restaurant, open for breakfast or lunch for some delicious homemade dumplings. A gorgeous view over the river is just a bonus, and it is right next to the royal palace. Night market experience : Snacking for Khmer street food and shopping in the evening. Fun for any family or group of Friends to feast and wander. Unlock the Mysteries of Siem Reap (Day 3-5) After experiencing the urban charm of Phnom Penh, head to Siem Reap – the gateway to the ruins of Angkor. Begin your exploration with a visit to the world-famous Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The awe-inspiring sunrise over the temple complex is an experience that will surely remain etched in your memory for years to come. On your second day, explore the lesser-known yet equally captivating temples of Bayon and Ta Prohm. While Bayon amazes with its intricate carvings and labyrinthine passageways, Ta Prohm, also known as the “Tomb Raider Temple”, enchants with its unique blend of nature and architecture, where trees intertwine with the ruins in a mesmerizing display of time’s relentless march. For nature lovers, a visit to Ton Le Sap Lake offers a chance to witness the unique lifestyle of the local people living in the middle of the lake. Despite the touristy nature of the boat tours, it’s an experience worth having. Malis Angkor : A must go for anyone looking to explore Cambodian flavours. With brilliant architecture, inspired from the great temples in Siem Reap, you will find yourself full of food and full of happiness. Khéma Angkor : If you are craving, or missing, a more western styled meal, then look no further than Khéma Angkor. Here you will find that they have a delicious breakfast or lunch offering sure to satiate any dish you miss from home. Immerse in the Quiet Charm of Battambang (Day 6-7) Next, travel to the quieter city of Battambang, a place where you can experience Cambodia’s charm at a slower pace. Start your day with a fun ride on the Bamboo Train, a unique and memorable experience. In the evening, make sure to visit the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus, a not-for-profit project supporting disadvantaged children. The talented young performers put on a show that is sure to leave you spellbound. Jaan Bai : A wonderful restaurant pioneering new Cambodian flavours, with it’s take on traditional dished fused with western techniques and ingenuity. The Lonely Tree Café : Another stop to add during your time in Battambang. Either for a nice break from touring or a filling lunch. Rejuvenate in the Coastal Bliss of Sihanoukville (Day 8-9) After the hustle and bustle of the cities and the historical explorations, it’s time to unwind on the serene beaches of Sihanoukville. Spend your days relaxing on the pristine white sands of Otres Beach, soaking in the tranquil ambiance and stunning sunsets. Golden Beach : One of a kind Khmer style seafood restaurant. If you visit Sihanoukville, do not miss this spot. Sandan : A more traditional style of khmer seafood is what you’ll find at Sandan. A new experience jam packed with all of Cambodia’s herbs, seafood and vegetables. Experience the Tropical Paradise of Koh Rong (Day 10-11) A short boat ride from Sihanoukville brings you to the tranquil oasis of Koh Rong. Spend your days here basking in the sun on the white sandy beaches, swimming in the clear waters, and marveling at the bioluminescence at night. The Big Easy : This is the perfect spot to satiate any craving at all. They have a menu featuring western and Khmer dishes, sure to satiate any craving. Discover the Natural and Gastronomic Delights of Kampot (Day 12-13) Your adventure continues in Kampot, a charming town known for its French colonial architecture and its world-renowned black pepper. Spend a day exploring the Bokor National Park and its Killing Cave, a chilling reminder of the country’s dark past. Next, visit a Kampot Pepper Farm to learn about the cultivation and processing of the world-famous Kampot pepper. Plantation : Eat on-site, a wonderful experience following your tour of the pepper farm. A selection of dishes that will best highlight why Kampot pepper is world renowned. Café espresso : A wide variety of dishes to choose from. Their menu is truly international but featuring heavily on the best vegetarian dishes from all around. If you’re craving some healthy meals, Café Espresso is the restaurant for you. Wrap Up Your Journey in Phnom … Read more

Primed for Prahok

by

The prime season for harvesting the fishes used for making Cambodia’s emblematic fermented fish Prahok has just passed, which means that now is the best time to tuck into one of the nation’s favourite dishes: Prahok Ktis, a rich, earthy combination of ground pork, crisp vegetables, tangy kroeung, sweet coconut milk and umami-packed Prahok, this is an excellent meal for any time of day, and an absolute must for anyone who is wavering about how to take their first step into the pungent world of Prahok. But if, on arriving in Cambodia, you concluded that Prahok is a strange and exotic concoction, you would be wrong. Many Western cultures have their own versions of Prahok, including the ancient Roman garum, or pissalat in Southern France. And if you’ve ever had a properly made Bloody Mary, then it should have included several dashes of the famous British Worcestershire sauce, made from fermented anchovies. And like Worcestershire sauce, Prahok’s primary role is to serve as a flavour enhancer for other ingredients. If you’ve ever added anchovies to a beef ragout in order to intensify and deepen the flavours, then the principles are exactly the same. Prahok has a place in all Cambodian kitchens where it is regularly employed to flavour soups or make dipping sauces. It is rarely eaten raw or on its own but can be enjoyed wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled. But its most widely known iteration is the iconic Prahok Ktis. Long recognised as a vital source of protein for a large part of the nation’s population Prahok, in common with other fermented fish products, offers other health benefits too. The fermentation process increases the bioavailability of the minerals, nutrients and vitamins that are already found in the fish, while concentrating levels of antioxidants that may reduce hypertension, bacterial infection and blood clotting, and boost immunity. In Cambodia, recognising Prahok’s potential appeal abroad among the diaspora and more widely, the government has taken steps to impose strict standards across the industry. So there’s really no excuse for not giving it a try! Why not start with one of our signature Prahok Ktis at Malis? Book your table at Malis

Valentine’s Day ~ Love Bites…

by

As many as half of all couples are planning to do something special this Valentine’s Day. Most of them are going out for a romantic dinner (don’t forget to book your table at Topaz, Malis or Khéma now, before they fill up), but almost as many will give their loved one a gift of chocolates as an emblem of whatever emotions underpin their bond, be it fresh young love, or hard-earned affection, companionship, understanding, compassion and tenderness. Chocolate’s relationship with love and ritual goes all the way back to mankind’s first discovery of this delicious bean. Chocolate comes from cocoa tree which is known as ‘Theobroma cacao’, which is Greek for “food of the gods”. The people of Central America were the first to discover and cultivate cacao beans as long as 3500 years ago. Its ceremonial importance then was profound, and chocolate was given generously at banquets, used in ritual offerings to the gods, and to anoint newborn children on the forehead, face and fingers in a rite resembling baptism. In Europe, chocolate was first introduced as a medicine at the beginning of the 16th century, its arrival coinciding with the growth of the West Indian sugar trade which no doubt aided its popularity. About 150 years later, it finally arrived on England’s shores, where it was soon popularly mixed with milk. At this point, it was still almost entirely consumed as a beverage, which remained the case until the mid-1800s when the Cadbury brothers worked out a process for transforming cocoa butter into blocks of delicious melt-in-the-mouth chocolates that we have all come to adore. Chocolate’s association with love and Valentine’s Day might just be the product of good marketing — one of the Cadbury brothers, Richard, was savvy enough to start marketing his new product in heart-shaped boxes and his stroke of marketing genius coincided with the expansion of Valentine’s Day in the Britain and the US. But there is a lot of science behind it too. Chocolate is popular perceived as ‘comforting’ and also as an aphrodisiac. How much of this is actually true is debatable, but as delicious as it is, it certainly provokes feelings of pleasure, and perhaps awakens the mind to pleasure’s potentials. It also contains phenylethylamine, a naturally occurring chemical in the human brain, responsible for the euphoric feelings associated with being in love. However, experiments to discover whether eating chocolate has a measurable effect on this aspect of body chemistry have proved inconclusive. But questions of marketing, science or history aside, we all love chocolate, and we especially love an opportunity to make those we love happy with a gift of pure pleasure. We have a beautiful range of delicious, luxurious and beautifully presented hand-made chocolates at Khéma. Made with love, for the one you love. Malis ❤️Love is your nature Surprise your Valentine with a romantic dinner under the stars and indulge in a charming 5-course gourmet dinner. Choose between the intimacy of the garden dining or the cosy room dining area.​ Malis menu Khéma ❤️Feel the love No matter how you say it, Valentine’s Day is the time to let loved ones know just how much they matter. Whether you are a couple madly in love, a family looking for a delicious meal, or a group of friends, we have you covered with an amazing French menu made with love.​ Khéma menu Topaz ❤️ Taste the love We’re bringing all the love to Topaz to celebrate Valentine’s Day! Taste your love around a romantic dinner planned for you. We have created a divine menu, crafted intricately and filled with delicious dishes that are sure to amplify the love for those closest to your heart. Topaz menu

Pump up your Vitals with Malis’ Moringa Soup

by
Moringa soup at Malis Restaurant

Moringa is a genuine superfood, and highly reputed for its manifold powers to revive and boost your body’s natural defenses One of Malis’ signature dishes, our delicate but delicious and nutritious Morinaga Soup is made with a pumpkin consommé and leaves from the Moringa tree to create a healthy and light vegetarian start to your meal that, for all its delicacy, is packed full of protein, minerals, vitamins, fiber and antioxidants. Moringa is a genuine superfood, and highly reputed for its manifold powers to revive and boost your body’s natural defenses. So it’s not just good, it’s good for you too. Indigenous to India, the Moringa (‘drumstick’) tree, also known as the ‘miracle tree’ and ‘mother’s best friend’ is now arguably one of the most cultivated trees in tropical and sub-tropical parts of the world thanks to its drought resistance. The tree is an important source of nourishment in developing countries where poor nutrition is a concern. Beyond, it is currently being extensively examined for its potential as a ‘functional food’, i.e. one of those foods whose benefits go beyond nutrition and may play a role in reducing or minimising the risk of certain diseases and other health conditions. Almost all parts of the tree, including the root, bark, seed, flowers, pods, seed oil, leaves and resin have potential food, agriculture or industrial uses. It is no wonder that many consider this tree to be the most useful in the world. However, it is the vivid-green, ovoid leaves that appear to offer the greatest protective, antioxidant properties. And it is not just marketers who like to say this. Our review of scientific journals reveals a consensus on the nutritional properties of Moringa leaves. They are a rich source of nutrients like protein, carbohydrate, fibre, beta carotene, vitamin C and minerals like calcium, potassium, iron and phosphorus. Their protein count is equivalent to that of some pulses, including soy and kidney beans. The leaves also contain various types of compounds such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C), flavonoids, phenolic compounds and carotenoids that act as natural antioxidants. But what is an antioxidant? In brief, they are naturally occurring, but also man-made, molecules that have the potential to prevent or delay certain types of cell damage in the body usually caused by things called free radicals. These are much too complicated to go into here but are essentially molecules of the body that have become “unbalanced” and highly reactive as a result of things like smoking. The antioxidant molecule has the capacity to “rebalance” the rampaging free radical and thus neutralise its potential for harm. Things can get confusing for consumers here because many like to promote Moringa Leaves as a specific means for combatting or preventing disease based on its antioxidant properties. However, while several decades of dietary research findings suggest that consuming greater amounts of antioxidant-rich foods might help to protect against diseases, no one has been able to establish a direct and specific link between the two. Research has shown that people who eat more vegetables and fruits that are rich in antioxidants have lower risks of several diseases; however, it is not clear whether these results are related to the amount of antioxidants in vegetables and fruits, to other components of these foods, to other factors in people’s diets, or to other lifestyle choices. We believe there may be a lot to the claims for Moringa’s healing powers, but for now we count on the fact that this soup provides a deliciously light beginning to your meal at Malis. Perhaps one to consider as part of your January “detox”.

The River of Sapphires

by

A Chef with a Vision Cambodia’s celebrated master chef, Luu Meng is looking lean and relaxed as we meet for an early morning chat, I have not seen my good friend for a little while and note that he looks perhaps a little weary. A few of his newest dishes are soon placed before me, Meng wants some feedback. Whilst recent years have been challenging for us all, tourism and hospitality were hit particularly hard; Meng closed a few venues, opened a few others, adapted where necessary, changed a few things up, but as always, he kept looking forward. For as long as I have known him, (about 15 years), Luu Meng has always been looking ahead, and his vision is one that is broad and inclusive. Working with his partners, his teams, with governments, committees and organizations, he keeps looking not only at his own businesses and the many industries he is involved in, (hospitality, tourism, agriculture, aquaculture, logistics, food security, and more) but also looking out for his people and looking at how to keep getting better. Meng is always implementing ways to improve business standards and practices industry wide, searching to create pathways to success and to improving Cambodian people’s daily lives. I always enjoy Meng’s company; I look up to him and find him someone who is inspirational in my life. I am proud to call him a friend and cherish our shared passion for food and the art of the table. Talking shop with Meng is always an expansive and informative conversation. Today, I wanted to talk about the Giant River Prawn, (Macrobrachium Rosenbergii), which is prized by restaurants, chefs and gourmands in Cambodia for its sweet, rich, firmly textured flesh and its subtle, freshwater flavour. Luu Meng likes to refer to it as ‘Mekong langoustine’ and pronounces it ‘bang kang’ in Khmer language. Of course, Meng is able to discuss more than his dishes and the river prawn itself, and I am soon firmly ensnared in his lobster pot, as he informs me on the species history here in Cambodia, where the best one’s come from, when is the best time to eat them and how the supply chain can remain environmentally, ethically and commercially sustainable. That is latter point is important to Meng is not surprising, but it is vitally important for the nation and the species. According to the Asian Journal of Agriculture and Food Sciences, Cambodians are the largest consumers of freshwater fish per capita in the world (Baran, 2010). With fish and other aquatic animals accounting for 76% of total animal proteins. Whilst according to a research paper published by Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems: Cambodia has one of the world’s most productive inland fisheries (Baran, 2005), based around the ecosystem of the Tonle Sap Lake. Inland fisheries have been central to livelihoods and food and nutrition security in Cambodia for centuries (Cooke, 2011; Sithirith, 2011), and continue to be so today (Hartje et al., 2018; Freed et al., 2020). Aquaculture has only relatively recently become the focus of sustained interest from research and development institutions in Cambodia. This interest aligns with predicted, and increasingly realized, declines in inland capture fisheries production. For example, a combination of drought and water impoundment by upstream dams caused reported fish catch from the Tonle Sap to contract 23% in 2020, prompting fears of imminent fisheries collapse (MRC, 2020). Such a collapse would threaten the livelihoods and food security of millions of Cambodians (IFReDI, 2013). Aquaculture is increasingly framed in Cambodian development policy discourse as having an important role to play in meeting demand for fish and providing rural employment. Meng gets his Bang Kang (Takeo Lobster) from the source, and serves it at Malis restaurant, where they offer the lobster whole, oven-baked in the shell. Before baking the bang kang is marinated in Prahok Ktis, (pickled mudfish with minced pork, coconut cream, a Khmer Kreoung of herbs and spices, and chilli). Foil traps in all the juices and flavour and the Lobster is served golden on a bed of Malis, (Jasmine) rice; where guests season it with Kampot pepper, Kep Salt and local lime juice to taste. Growing to around 32 centimeters in size, they make a delicious entrée or a main and Meng cooks the rice itself in a bang kang, gumbo-broth that is made including a magnificent, flavourful, creamy roux -made from the contents of the lobster’s head. Meng tells me that whilst the smaller lobsters have more flavour and texture in their flesh, the larger lobsters have much more cranial matter with which to make the roux, adding that this is a key component to the species exceptional deliciousness. Another recipe Meng likes for bang kang is to make a lobster soup with kaffir lime leaf, shallots, Kampot pepper, kreoung, onions, fish roe, the bang kang roux, add in lots of fresh herbs, fresh chilli and citrus juice, with whole pieces of lobster in the soup. Meng notes this is a very revitalizing and refreshing soup, and it is very popular with locals. Meng notes that the Takeo Lobster is very popular, it is a dish to impress and often served for special or important occasions, it is a highly prized ingredient amongst locals. The French in Indochina also loved to eat them and called them Saphira, named for their sapphire blue legs. Today, the species is once again developing an international following. Meng notes that tourists and visitors love to order the dish at his restaurant, and that there is now export demand for the Takeo lobster. For so many producers in the Agri-sector, meeting demand has often been about increasing supply at the risk of exhausting the resource or its environment. Here the way to meet demand will have to be through adding value and increasing the price, in order to preserve the species environment and keep them healthy and sustainable. Takeo province is sometimes called the oldest province in Cambodia or the cradle of civilization, for … Read more

Phnom Penh & Gastronomy: Delicious Asian cuisine at Sevensea

by

After Yi sang, Kanji and Uy Kuyteav, Sevensea is the youngest restaurant of the Almond group of hotels and restaurants, owned by the prestigious Cambodian chef Luu Meng. Located just across from Ko Pich Island on the Tonle Bassac River, Sevensea occupies the ground and second floors of the Almond Bassac river hotel. It’s billed as a “seafood restaurant”, but in reality, the establishment’s menu has much more to tempt its clientele: some 50 dim-sum, ten egg dishes, nine varieties of kuy teav, and four kinds of noodles. You can also choose Japanese food: sushi, sashimi and salads. In addition to dim sum, Chinese cuisine is also well represented with salads, stir-fries, Cantonese roast, stir-fried rice and noodles, and soups from the Middle Kingdom (China). Seafood is also honoured: there is plenty of fresh oysters, shrimp, fish, but also some of the most emblematic and luxurious ingredients of Chinese seafood cuisine, such as abalone and sea cucumbers. The desserts, meanwhile, are decidedly Cambodian. To choose among this incredible variety of dishes is of course quite difficult. In any case, if you want to have a representative sample of the restaurant cuisine, several visits are necessary. Sevensea is a popular destination for Phnom Penh’s Chinese population who are looking to reconnect with the delicious atmosphere of Cantonese or Hong Kong-style weekend family brunches and their legendary dim-sum. The object is to select as many varieties as possible (the only limit being everyone’s appetite), in order to vary the pleasures. The most classic dim-sum are present on the Sevensea menu: “xiaomai” (a kind of cylindrical ravioli stuffed with pork, steamed and recognisable by its yellow envelope), ravioli with rice flour envelope and various fillings, “malaigao” (Malaysian cake), sticky rice with fatty pork and cooked in lotus leaves, fried shrimp dumplings and fried ravioli accompanied by the sweet mayonnaise that the Chinese love. A meal of dim sum can be perfectly complemented by a Cantonese rotisserie dish, such as a succulent portion of “chashao” (roasted pork belly cooked with honey), or stir-fried rice, of which several versions are offered, including “Cantonese rice” (which is actually called “Yangzhou stir-fried rice” in Chinese, after the Chinese city where this dish was developed). The first floor of the restaurant is occupied by the kitchen, which is partly open, and by a large, airy and bright dining room, elegantly laid out and furnished with a few square tables and many round tables such as those traditionally found in Chinese restaurants. On the second floor, there are seven tastefully decorated private lounges where groups seeking privacy can enjoy a quiet meal. The service in the dining room is just about flawless. Moreover, the service team is multilingual: Khmer, of course, but also English and Chinese are the languages frequently heard in the restaurant. The food is of good quality and the prices, if they are far from being the cheapest of the capital (it is necessary to count about fifteen dollars per person, drinks not included), remain nevertheless reasonable. The quality/price ratio is quite good. Only one reproach to address: the parking capacity for cars and motorcycles is insufficient considering the popularity of the restaurant, especially on weekends. Ratings (out of 5): Atmosphere: 4.5 Service: 4 Quality of the products: 4 Presentation of the dishes: 4,5 Quality/price ratio : 4,5 Overall score : 4,3 Texts and photographs by Pascal Médeville Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag  

Siem Reap & Gastronomy : About fusion cuisine with Malis

by

Rediscovery of the restaurant Malis Siem Reap, one of the best addresses of Cambodian cuisine in the kingdom History More than six years ago, though it still feels like yesterday, Malis Siem Reap formally opened its doors. It took five years of searching for the perfect location before the first shovel could hit the ground to create the space and place for a new bastion of luxury on the west river bank in Temple Town. Large capacity On this prime site, just a little north of Old Market, a new building with a total area of two thousand square meters was constructed with space for up to 300 people to be comfortably catered to at any moment in time. Luxury The design of the place is rooted in luxury and elegance, with a strong Angkorian twist. Visitors will see elements of the temples all around them. The restaurant’s menu is quite similar to that of Malis in Phnom Penh, although the number of dishes is a bit smaller. This choice is explained by the fact that some ingredients available in the capital are unavailable locally, at least at the level of quality required by Chef Luu Meng. Malis cuisine is more a “fusion” cuisine than a gastronomy within the strict limits of traditional Cambodian cuisine. Malis’ motto is “Living Cambodian Cuisine”. This translates into a selection of dishes inspired by Cambodian culinary tradition in its broadest sense, but interpreted in a modern way. This state of mind makes the most intransigent say that the Malis cuisine is more a “fusion” cuisine than a gastronomy within the strict limits of traditional Cambodian cuisine. Tradition However, it is indeed within Khmer traditions that the dishes proposed here draw their source. To be convinced of this, you just have to go through the menu: Takeo sausages, raw beef salad (phlea sach ko), bamboo shoot and smoked fish soup, pork salad with banana flowers, sour forest soup (m’chou prei), fish amok or beef saraman are undeniably Cambodian compositions. Quality and variety Among the many dishes offered, some deserve special attention: the fried soft shell crab, served with a pepper dipping sauce, will delight seafood lovers; the slow-cooked pork shank, a Chinese-inspired dish, accompanied by its bamboo shoots, is distinguished by its tenderness; the generous portion of rice sautéed with Kampot crab will be for those who have exhausted their strength climbing the temples of the archaeological park a consolation that is both tasty and invigorating. A true milestone in the Cambodian gastronomic tradition The scallops with green pepper are also worth a closer look: generously served in a half shell, the muscles of the shell are cooked to perfection, their texture is perfect and their flavors are magnified by the fresh pepper. The fragrant soup (sâm-lâ prâ-hae) with smoked fish is of uncommon finesse, and is a milestone in the Cambodian gastronomic tradition. The very famous fish amok (or better yet, fish head amok) is a vibrant tribute to the “Khmer national dish”. And among the vegetables, we will pay special attention to the sautéed loofah. Efficient service The service is efficient and considerate. The set up in the kitchen is obviously perfect, because the wait is very short. The only complaint is that the music played at the reception is different from the one played in the dining room, so if your table is near the entrance door of the dining room, every time the door opens, it is an unpleasant cacophony. Also note that the prices are commensurate with the quality of the food. Ratings (out of 5): Atmosphere: 4 Service: 4 Quality of the products: 4,5 Presentation of the dishes : 4,5 Quality/price ratio : 4,5 Overall score : 4,3 Text and photos by Pascal Médeville Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag

The “University of Malis”, a Rich Learning Ground for our Team

by

SIN Vannay joined the Malis Siem Reap team four years ago as a restaurant supervisor, and continues to grow and flourish there, learning and doing more than ever before, while also setting a positive example for her young daughters. Vannay grew up at Roluos near Bakong temple, one of the earliest monuments of the Khmer Empire, just 15 miles away from Siem Reap. There, she grew up alongside her younger brothers and sisters while her parents grew and sold sugar cane juice. Vannay often accompanied her mother on the side of the roads leading towards the temple as she sold the sweet juice to passersby. At six years of age, she joined the local primary school before continuing her high-school education at Wat Svay in Siem Reap. Because of the distance and condition of the roads, she could only return home on the weekends. And while she has huge ambitions that her own two daughters, aged 13 and 15, might be able to go on to university, that option was not open to her. Vannay left school at 15, and went straight to work at a local hotel. Over the years, she worked with a number of establishments with excellent reputations before finally coming to join us at Malis where she hopes to continue, and continue growing. “When I started here, I had only done operations work before, but now I am doing so much more and with a much bigger team to supervise than I have ever worked with before too, so I am enjoying it very much. Sometimes I worry that I don’t know how to do what I need to learn, but I always try my best, and I enjoy learning so much,” she says. In that respect, she has found her experience at Malis to be hugely enriching. “Other companies don’t really care about you learning and growing. They just want you to stay at the same level, and never give any time or encouragement for anything else. But here, we are all pushed to learn as much as we can, and it is very good. And it goes beyond what we learn for ourselves. I had never worked in a place before where as soon as someone learns something new, they share it with everyone else, but that is what happens here because the culture of learning is so strong that we all want everyone to participate in it as much as the company does”. One of Vannay’s current challenges is getting to grips with computers and with email communications with local tour operators and hotels etc, for bookings for the restaurant. “I had never worked with computers before, so it was all new,” she says, somewhat wide-eyed even thinking about it. But it’s clear that she is relishing the opportunity to learn and do and be more than before, not only out of a strong sense of duty, curiosity and professionalism but also, it seems clear, because this is how she can set an example to her daughters. “I want them to go to university, but I also need them to learn how to make money before they go,” she says. “It is very hard to find money! And Covid has taught us all how difficult things can get and that we cannot see the future. So I am encouraging them to find ways to earn their living, and to find skills so they can support themselves. I can teach them how to manage money, but they have to make it first”. For now, she hopes to move up the rankings at Malis, and knows she still has plenty more to learn along the way. “I will learn more and more every day, it makes me very happy”. Written by Nicky Sullivan

Khmer Cuisine and Wine

by

Khmer cuisine is one of the world’s oldest living cuisines and one of the most resilient on the planet. Pairing wine with Khmer cuisine can be fun and can bring a great deal of enjoyment and satisfaction, although certain accepted wine pairing norms must and can be successfully abandoned Spices are often exquisite in quality, yet restrained and understated in their use. Regional flavours and dishes prevail: turmeric from Battambang, Salt from Kep, and of course Pepper from Kampot, which is internationally renowned for its intensity and unique characteristics. Saffron is valued for medicinal qualities as well as flavor and aroma, whilst tamarind also forms the basis of many sauces and marinades. An assortment of freshwater fish from the Tonle Sap, Mekong, Bassac; seafood from Kep and beyond are sought out and savoured. There are influences in the cuisine from China, (the Chinese began moving in Cambodian circles as far back as the thirteenth century), Vietnam and Thailand; as well as the impact of French colonialism on dish construction and cooking technique. Chili is widely used in Khmer cuisine although more sparingly than its neighbours. Prahok is a national institution made from fermented fish and used much in the way westerners would use salt to season their cooking. Kroeung is a widely used curry paste, made from the skillful art of spice blending; common ingredients in Khmer Kroeung are cardamom, star anise, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, cilantro and kaffir lime leaves. Rice is the staple, and then the meal consists of a number of different dishes that individually highlight certain flavor components, (salty, sour, sweet, bitter, hot, umami) which, when combined as a single degustation, offer a sense of having a complete and satisfactory meal. Wine and Khmer Cuisine Pairing wine with Khmer cuisine can be fun and can bring a great deal of enjoyment and satisfaction, although certain accepted wine pairing norms must and can be successfully abandoned. For a start, it’s not going to work trying to pair a certain wine to a certain dish given that the meal usually consists of a selection of dishes, that when eaten as a whole form the complete meal. If you are trying to match glass-for-dish you will have an awkward table cluttered with multiple glasses per person! So, what we are looking for here are good all-rounders, wines that can pair well with the fresh clean flavours of Khmer food across multiple proteins and styles. Wines that can be paired to bitter, sour ingredients and pungent, salty and spicy foods. Look at aromatic whites, which positively zing paired with the fresh herbs, greens and spices abundant in Khmer soups, salads and other dishes, the wide use of freshwater fish and seafood also make these wine styles perfect partners: think Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Alberino, Pinot Grigio, Verdejo and you are on the right track. Rose can work well, particularly with the standard pork and rice, or with spicier chicken or pork dishes: look for the slightly off dry styles, as that fruity, sweetness ameliorates the heat. If it has to be red, then I adore Pinot Noir with Khmer cuisine, its lush fruit characters, lively acidity and only faint tannins make it a wonderful food wine across many dishes and styles. Although, most fruity and fruit driven reds will work well. For the fuller-flavoured, dishes, look for wines made from Merlot, Carmenere, Grenache, and GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre) blends. For the heavier, meaty dishes I like a Malbec from Argentina, a juicy Aussie Shiraz, a rustic Cote Rotie from France, or a Touriga Nacional from Portugal. I personally find the main trick is to stay away from high alcohol wines, from oaky wines or big, tannic reds, high alcohol amplifies heat, whilst tannins and new wood characters tend to be amplified by dishes involving bitterness, sourness or spiciness. Instead, look for pure, fruit driven wines with good, vibrant acidity to enhance your Cambodian culinary odyssey and enjoy. Written by Darren Gall