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Truffle Hog

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“Whosoever says truffle, utters a grand word, which awakens erotic and gastronomic ideas” Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), preface to ‘The Physiology of Taste’ (1825) Truffles, those incredible little culinary luxuries that almost defy description, one should never pass up an opportunity to smell, taste and commune with the plump little balls of ectomycorrhizal fungi found in the rhizosphere of oak and hazelnut trees. The merest sliver of a shaving of the hypogeous sporocarp, (fruiting body) of the truffle can transform even the blandest dish into something, exceptional, complex and completely irresistible. It is almost as if truffles are infused by magical properties and indeed, Ancient Europeans believed that truffles were created by the gods when lightning struck the ground. The Roman philosopher Cicero, (106 BC – 43 BC) called them children of the earth and the Greek essayist Plutarch (AD46-AD120) wrote “Since, during storms, flames leap from the humid vapors and dark clouds emit deafening noises, is it surprising the lightning, when it strikes the ground, gives rise to truffles…” In ‘Close to Colette’ (1955) the author Maurice Goudeket suggested “Truffles – anyone who does not declare himself ready to leave Paradise or Hell for such a treat is not worthy to be born again.” Whilst his wife, French author nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature, (1948) Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, (1873 – 1954) is quoted herself as saying, “If I can’t have too many truffles, I’ll do without truffles.” The two godfathers of French fine dining criticism are Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, (1755-1826) and Alexandre-(Balthazard)-Laurent Grimod de La Reynière, (1758-1837). Brillat-Savarin’s most famous work, ‘Physiologie du goût (The Physiology of Taste), was published in December 1825, just two months before his death and it has never been out of print since. An interesting and complex character he studied law, chemistry and medicine in Dijon, there was a price on his head during the French Revolution and he fled to Switzerland before moving to Holland and then the brand-new country called the United States of America. In the U.S. he earned a living giving violin lesson and was for a time ‘first violin’ for the Park Theatre in New York. He returned to France in 1797 and served for the remainder of his life as a judge for the Court de Cassation, one of France’s ‘Courts of Last Resort’. Brillat-Savin called truffles the ‘diamonds of the kitchen’ and he wrote a great many words on truffles, including: “Whoever says truffle, pronounces a great word, which awakens erotic and gourmand ideas both in the sex dressed in petticoats and in the bearded portion of humanity. This honorable duplication results from the fact that the tubercle is not only delicious to the taste, but that it excites a power the exercise of which is accompanied by the most delicious pleasures. The origin of the truffle is unknown; they are found, but none know how they vegetate. The most learned men have sought to ascertain the secret, and fancied they discovered the seed. Their promises, however, were vain, and no planting was ever followed by a harvest. This perhaps is all right, for as one of the great values of truffles is their dearness, perhaps they would be less highly esteemed if they were cheaper. The Romans were well acquainted with the truffle, but I do not think they were acquainted with the French variety. Those which were their delight were obtained from Greece and Africa, and especially from Libya. The substance was pale, tinged with rose, and the Libyan truffles were sought for as being far the most delicate and highly perfumed. From the Romans to our own time, there was a long interregnum, and the resurrection of truffles is an event of recent occurrence. I have read many old books, in which there is no allusion to them. The generation for which I write may almost be said to witness its resurrection. About 1780 truffles were very rare in Paris, and they were to be had only in small quantities at the Hotel des Americans, and at the Hotel de Province. A dindon truffee was a luxury only seen at the tables of great nobles and of kept women. We owe their abundance to dealers in comestibles, the number of whom has greatly increased, and who, seeing that their merchandise was popular, had it sought for throughout the kingdom. Sending for it by either the mail or by couriers, they made its search more general. As truffles cannot be planted, careful search alone can obtain it. At the time I, (Brillat-Savin) write (1825), the glory of the truffle is at its apogee. Let no one ever confess that he dined where truffles were not. However good any entree may be, it seems bad unless enriched by truffles. Who has not felt his mouth water when any allusion was made to truffles a la provincale? A sauté of truffles is a dish the honors of which the mistress of the house reserves to herself; in fine, the truffle is the diamond of the kitchen. I sought the reason of this preference; it seemed to me that many other substances had an equal right to the honor, and I became satisfied that the cause was that the truffle was supposed to excite the genesiac sense. This I am sure is the chief quality of its perfection, and the predilection and preference evinced for it, so powerful is our servitude to this tyrannical and capricious sense. This discovery led me to seek to ascertain if the effect were real or imaginary…. I made ulterior researches, collected my ideas, and consulted the men who were most likely to know, with all of whom I was intimate. I united them into a tribunal, a senate, a sanhedrim, an areopagus, and we gave the following decision to be commented upon by the litterateures of the twenty-eighth century. The truffle is a positive aphrodisiac, and under certain circumstances makes women kinder, and men more amiable. In Piedmont white truffles are … Read more

The Eternal Lunch

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“The sweetness of food does not last long, but the sweetness of good words do.” Thai Proverb Whilst I lived in Thailand some time ago, I became very fond of a local saying taught to me by my Thai friends; I cherished it, mostly because I could observe it in action almost every day. The saying went something like this: ‘Thais eat five meals a day with snacks in between and when we are not eating, we are thinking about our next meal’, this often preceded the additional comment; ‘it’s only funny because it’s true!’ Few could blame them, Thai cuisine is truly delicious, their street snacks are legion, and legendary and their love of food is glorious, as is their sense of humor. In the West, we have this long held notion of three-square meals per day, with the early evening meal with family being the main meal of the day. However, just as what we eat has changed over time, when we eat, and the emphasis we place on each meal has changed dramatically. For many, particularly Greeks, Romans and Mediterranean cultures, a large midday meal, followed by a nap to pass the hottest period of the day, was the normal practice. Food historian Ivan Day told the BBC, “The whole day used to be structured much differently; people got up much earlier and they went to bed much earlier.” Making maximum use of natural light was of paramount importance. Dinner was always the main meal, but back in the Middle Ages this would be taken during late morning. Through the centuries, as dinner kept getting pushed back later and later, (by the time gaslight was common it would replace the ‘supper’ meal) a new term was needed for the midday meal, and lunch it was to be. It should ne noted that in some cultures, the midday meal is still the most important meal of the day and is often still referred to as ‘dinner’. Nicola Twilley on her well-researched and thoughtful website: www.ediblegeography.com , wrote that ‘whilst lunch may be the second meal of the day, it was the last of the three daily meals to rise above its snack origins to achieve that status.’ As early as 1591, the term was being used to mean a ‘thick piece, hunk or chunk’ as in a “lunch of bacon”. Twilley notes that in the 1755 edition of ‘A Dictionary of the English Language’ by Samuel Johnson, the word lunch still meant “as much food as one’s hand could hold”, suggesting it remained something of a snack, (depending on the size of one’s hand). According to the Oxford English dictionary, the modern use of the term lunch did not appear until 1829 and it was not until the latter half of the 19th century that we were sitting down to a proper midday meal known as lunch. For the working classes this would often involve downing tools and sitting to eat something brought from home, or eating in a staff canteen on site. The French painter Édouard Manet, (1832 – 1883) was one of the first to depict everyday, modern life in his works, and he remains a pivotal figure in the transition from Realism to Impressionism. In 1863, Manet submitted a work to the French government for inclusion in its biannual Paris Salon, which was to house works by the most important artists of the day at the Academie des Beaux-Arts. Artists from all over Europe submitted their pieces for consideration and a jury determined who was to eventually be selected. According to ‘Paris impérial: La vie quotidienne sous le Second Empire’, A medal from the Salon was assurance of a successful artistic career; winners were given official commissions by the French government, and were be sought out for portraits and private commissions. Since the 18th century, paintings were classified by genre, following a specific hierarchy; history paintings were ranked first, followed by the portrait, the landscape, the genre scene, and the finally, still life. The jury at the Academy of Fine Arts, was extremely conservative; looking for near-photographic works and those with an idealized realism. In the selection of 1863, the judges managed to reject a third of all the work submitted, including pieces by artists such as Paul Cezanne, Camille Pissarro, James Abbott McNeill Whistler and of course, the work by submitted by Manet. In an attempt to appease these spurned artists and avoid public backlash, Emperor Napoleon III hastily arranged for a separate exhibition, known as the “Salon des Refusés,” which would be held at the Palais de l’Industrie. Napoleon’s office issued a statement, published in ‘Le Moniteur’ on 24 April 1863.: “Numerous complaints have come to the Emperor on the subject of the works of art which were refused by the jury of the Exposition. His Majesty, wishing to let the public judge the legitimacy of these complaints, has decided that the works of art which were refused should be displayed in another part of the Palace. The journalist Emile Zola reported that more than a thousand visitors a day visited the Salon des Refusés and that in the crowded galleries where ‘the refused’ paintings were hung, the rooms were full of the laughter and ridicule of the spectators. However, this critical attention also legitimized the emerging avant-garde in painting and the Impressionists successfully exhibited their works outside the traditional Salon beginning in 1874. Subsequent Salons des Refusés were mounted in Paris in 1874, 1875, and 1886, by which time the popularity of the Paris Salon had declined, people were now more interested in Impressionism. The work Manet submitted and was ‘refused’ he titled, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, (The Luncheon on the Grass) a large painting depicting two clothed men and two women, one half dressed, the other naked, having lunch on the grass in a wood. Its first showing sparked outrage, it was considered vulgar and indecent, but it also heralded a new type of painting and marked the single biggest … Read more

Gastronomy & “50 Best” list: What are the best restaurants and chefs in Asia?

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The suspense is over for the culinary competition – Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – to determine the top 50 best dining establishments located in Asia. Hopefuls and Winners Although the official name of the competition is “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants”, the list was expanded last year from 51 to 100 places to reflect a greater diversity of tastes and regions. The publication of the shortlist naturally generated a wave of enthusiasm and high hopes among the candidates, all of whom were probably dreaming of making it into the top 10, or even of achieving the ultimate accolade of reaching the podium. The winners of this tenth edition were revealed last Tuesday and celebrated with a series of live events in Bangkok, Macau and Tokyo. The suspense was intense during the ceremony when the countdown reached the top five. The Chairman (China), last year’s No. 1, took fifth place; Le Du in Bangkok came in at No. 4, giving Chef Ton two spots in the top 10, an absolutely unique achievement. Florilege restaurant in Tokyo took the third place. Finally, Sorn, the best restaurant in Thailand, came in second. Then came the announcement of the coveted first place and it was Den (Tokyo) – already ranked as the best restaurant in Japan since 2018, coming in second or third overall in the previous four editions. Award-winning chef Zaiyu Hasegawa began cooking at the age of 18 in the kitchen of a ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) in the Kagurazaka district of Tokyo. Eleven years later, he opened Den. According to the chef, who is visibly moved, but not really surprised to be in the top 10, his success can be explained by an ongoing curiosity: “Rather than sticking to the elegant but often impersonal traditions of high-end kaiseki cuisine, I offer a deeply personal version of Japanese cuisine drawing on a variety of influences, whether from home or gleaned from travels abroad, but always using prime ingredients from the ocean, pastures and forest,” he explains on the Den website. Concept Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants was created in 2013 by the Academy of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, an influential group reuniting more than 300 food critics in Asia, each selected for their expert opinion in the industry. The competition includes six voting regions – India and Subcontinent; Southeast Asia – South; Southeast Asia – North; Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau; Mainland China and Korea; and Japan. This initiative, supported by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, was launched at a time when gastronomic tourism was booming. The objective of the promoters of this initiative was “to publicize promising chefs and culinary trends and to highlight the subtlety and complexity of the various cuisines of the region – and of course, those worth discovering” “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” list is published by William Reed, which also manages “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” launched in 2002, and “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants,” launched in 2013. In May 2020, “50 Best” – the organization behind the lists – launched the “50 Best for Recovery” program in support of restaurants around the world that are emerging from the Covid-19 pandemic and are looking for concrete advice and support. There are also a multitude of categories in this 50 Best organization ranging from best bars to discoveries to MENA’s (Middle East & North Africa’s). In 2021, still in the spirit of supporting a struggling industry Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – in association with S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna – has announced “Essence of Asia”, addressing a category of restaurants representing the spirit of Asian gastronomy. Reference The Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants award has become a benchmark in gastronomy. Since 2013, the list has well-positioned restaurants rated by as many as 350 chefs, professionals and food experts as the best. For William Reed, which operates in a field – review site and competition – that is more than crowded, the “50 Best” reference is a genuine compass for gourmets and lovers of fine cuisine and an exceptional opportunity for restaurateurs to significantly gain visibility and notoriety. Due to restrictions, the annual culinary gathering, usually a mix of festivities and gourmet meals, has not been held in preference since 2019. The 2020 and 2021 editions were online so not very tasty… This year, however, the organizers of 50 Best offered a novel format: they unveiled the list in a simulcast to the public and to the winners in Macau, Tokyo and Bangkok. In Cambodia Wat Damnak In 2015, Wat Damnak restaurant in Siem Reap entered this prestigious list of the 50 best restaurants in Asia at number 50. This was a first for a restaurant in the Kingdom. Chef-owner Joannès Rivière had then flown to Singapore to attend a gala evening at the Capella Resort, in the presence of several of the world’s most famous chefs. “I am honored, it is really a great success, it definitely puts Siem Reap on the international culinary map. It’s good for Siem Reap, but also for Cambodia,” said the French chef at the time, adding: “The country is really worth visiting when it comes to food. We have the products. We have the culinary culture. We have everything people could want. I just don’t think we are the best at promoting ourselves here in Cambodia, especially in Siem Reap.” On this occasion, the chef also took the opportunity to say: “I would like to see this award as a message to Cambodian chefs, it proves that it is possible to run a world-class restaurant with a menu based on local products. Young Cambodian chefs should pay attention to their grandmother’s cooking and the products around them. Back on the map In 2019, Joannès Rivière’s restaurant was again included in the “50 Best” list in the “Disovery” category, a second consecration for the talented chef who has since opened a restaurant in Phnom Penh. As a matter of fact, Joannès Rivière’s restaurant in Siem Reap was so successful that it was necessary to make reservations several weeks in advance, thus becoming one of the … Read more

Wonder Wall

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For many people, it is sometimes difficult to appreciate the mark-up on wines in restaurants, the significantly higher prices -often for the same wines- we are asked to pay when compared to the supermarket, or the wine shop. We can fail to consider the significant and measurable added costs in setting and service, for example: the furnishings, fittings, artwork, linen, glassware, service staff, training, powered storage, air conditioning, music, mood lighting, decanters, openers, uniforms, flowers, wine list printing costs, and more. All of these things are carefully incorporated into your dining experience, and hopefully elevate your appreciation of it. Whilst the owner of the establishment is working out how to juggle and offset these costs against his revenue streams, (namely, food and beverage). Trying to decide just how much is a reasonable amount to recover via wine prices, whilst still hoping to turn a small to reasonable profit. In fact, wine is just one of many parts that go into the occasion, the sum of all parts being the entire dining experience, the food, the service, the décor, the ambiance, and of course the wine offering, the wine chosen and its pairing with the food ordered. However, many of these elements are intangible, in the background, quietly contributing to the whole, (and all costing considerable amounts of money) whilst being undervalued or, even barely noticed by the paying customer. At Khema Restaurant, on Rue Pasteur, they seem to have hit upon an ingenious solution. Famous for their artisan bakery, patisserie, fromagerie and charcuterie -which customers drop in and purchase to take home; Khema have added a wine wall to this ‘store’ part of their establishment. Wines are at ‘bottle shop’ prices and are very reasonable indeed. However, the truly exciting offer is that customers can now purchase these wines at the same off-premise prices, and for a small corkage fee, ($10) drink them in the restaurant with their meal; an initiative that is bound to see their sales of wine increase exponentially, both take-home and in-house. This opportunity opens up all sorts of food and wine pairing possibilities and I quickly organized an evening with friends to do just that. The philosophy of aesthetics is concerned with the nature and appreciation of art, beauty and good taste, much of that study has to do with empirical posteriori evaluations gained from the senses of sight and sound or simultaneous combinations of the two. Yet I have long been absorbed by the organoleptic aesthetics appreciated through smell, touch and taste. Olfaction being the only sense that plugs straight into that part of our brain, where we regulate emotions and store memories, (the limbic system) and the subject matter, (food and beverage) is the only artform where, via gustation, we ingest it into our bodies; making the preparation of foods and beverages the only artform that truly sustains us. The great chefs and winemakers of our world have to be part scientist in their laboratories, (be that kitchen or winery), but the very best are also true artists; as creative, skillful and talented as a Matisse, Mozart or Modigliani. I arrived at Khema early, spending a good deal of time surveying the ‘wall of wine’ and then studying the menu, by the time my friends arrived I was ready to make my serious pairing choices. The first course: salmon gravlax, salt and pepper seasoning, dill, beautifully presented with a cheek of lemon, sour cream, capers, rings of allium onion and pearls of ikura roe. The salmon sliced so fine as to have a translucence, it is flavourful and laden with rich, fatty aminos and omegas. The pairing called for a wine with plenty of richness of flavour -to compete with the strong flavours of the cured salmon- it also needed to have good acidity so as to cut through all that fatty acid which the species is famous for, and its flavour profile needed to be complimentary to the protein, the main ingredient and strongest flavour in the dish. As it’s the first course, I wanted a white wine, a great winemaker and gastronome once joked with me that starting with a white was very important, because it prepared the palate for the red to follow -I have never forgotten it. For flavour intensity and palate weight, I opted for a Chardonnay however, this ‘great wall of wine’ had to have the right option, a Chardonnay from a cooler climate, to ensure it had the right structure and all of that minerality and fine acidity that the very best display; I was thinking of white Burgundy. I settled on a wine from the very respected producer, Joseph Drouhin, a Chardonnay from the extreme south of the Maconnais, in a little sub-region known as Saint Veran. Not dissimilar to a Pouilly Fuisse, the wine showed exceptional fruit with good depth and complexity, wrapped up tightly in fine and bracing minerality, derived from the Jurassic limestone and chalky soils. The structure impressive and the flavours showed clean and bright, with fig, orange zest, white peach, hints of carambola and notes of spice. The fruit comfortably matched the protein for intensity, and nicely complimented the dish, whilst the mineral and citrus like acidity danced along the back of the palate and cleansed it of any oily, fatty residuals, freshening up the palate and diner, ready for another morsel. It was a truly magnificent combination and one that would prove hard to surpass for the rest of the meal. The main course was to be a shared affair, with my two guests -fellow gourmands Jack and Nicolas. We opted for lamb shank and a beef wellington between us. Two reds were to be selected and whilst I was looking for wines to paired well with the dishes, I was also looking for a contrast between the two selections. Different varieties, winemaking styles and hemispheres. The Lamb shank is a cut from the shin of the lamb, it is one of the most flavorful cuts, with the connective … Read more

Easter and chocolate, the secrets of a tradition

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On Sunday, April 17, we will celebrate the feast of Easter. Easter, which means “passage”, commemorates the resurrection of Jesus Christ and marks the end of Lent. On this occasion, many of us eat chocolate eggs, which make the joy and happiness of children and adults. Why do we eat chocolate eggs at Easter? This tradition of Easter eggs comes from the prohibition of eating fatty foods during Lent. The eggs laid during this period were kept in ash and then decorated. 5,000 years ago in Persia, hens’ eggs were exchanged to celebrate the new season, spring. The eggs symbolized renewal and fertility. A kind of good luck charm for the one who received them. In the 15th century, eggs were very popular at court. In Versailles, the nobles liked to offer themselves magnificent decorated and painted eggs. Traces of this tradition can also be found in Alsace. Chocolate made its appearance in France in 1615 in liquid form. It was greatly appreciated by the Sun King, Louis XIV and his court. It is a luxury food reserved for the privileged. After chocolate became popular, the French preferred to replace fried eggs by chocolate eggs to celebrate Easter. What could be better than a little chocolate treat after 40 days of deprivation? Celebrating Easter without eggs is like making bread without flour: it is simply unthinkable! As Easter approaches, Artisan chocolate makers are busy in Khéma GO “It is in particular the shape of the small egg that is pleasant to the touch, to the eye, and then in the mouth as well,” explains Chef Hak, Artisan chocolatier. “We have a white chocolate that is very low in sugar. Generally, white chocolate is between 40 and 50% sugar. Ours is 34% sugar, so very little sugar. It is a very fine chocolate. The praline, we make it ourselves, in the traditional way, we roast the hazelnuts, we caramelize the sugar, and then we make the praline.” All the eggs are handmade Green, red, blue, the eggs are colored and above all they are all naked: no packaging, to respect the environment as much as possible: “We do not use aluminum which is quite polluting” continues chef Hak. “The eggs are colored naturally. Here, all the eggs are made by hand.”

The Pastry at the End of the Earth

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“It is for others one must learn to do everything; for there lies the secret of happiness.” Jules Verne Jules Gabriel Verne, (1828 to 1905) was an extraordinary novelist, poet and playwright, a man of indomitable imagination, his most famous works would become known as the ‘Voyages Extraordinaires’, and include some of the world’s most well-read and cherished works of science-fiction: Journey to the Center of the Earth, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea and Around the World in Eighty Days. Verne is an historically important author and he had a wide influence on the literary avant-garde and surrealism movements. He is one of the most translated authors in the world and at various times has been the single most translated French author in history. He has been called the ‘Father of Science Fiction’ along with H. G. Wells. France declared 2005, ‘Jules Verne Year’ to acknowledge the centenary of his passing. “Anything one man can imagine; other men can make real.” Jules Verne, Around the World in Eighty Days Born in Brittany on the Île Feydeau, in the Loire River at Nantes, Jules Verne, author of some of literature’s most fantastic journeys, would have to wait until he was in his early thirties before traveling to the ‘ends of the earth’ in order to discover the richest, sweetest and most buttery pastry the world has ever known. Verne would have travelled west by north west until he reached the forest of Paimpont, which would have made this perhaps yet another fantastic voyage for the young author. Once known as the enchanted forest of Brocéliande, this is reputed to be the home of Viviene -The Lady in the Lake, of the tragic lovers, Tristan and Isolde, and the final resting place of the great druid Merlin. The forest here is the site of many medieval legends regarding King Arthur, his round table knights and ‘The Matter of Britain’. Verne would have then headed straight for the coastline and the village of Douarnenez, which is nestled around the shores of a little estuary at the mouth of the Pouldavid River, in the department of Finistere. Finistere Brittany, this is the western-most land mass and coastline of France; the name Finistere derives from the Latin ‘Finis Terræ’, meaning the ‘end of the earth’, and it is here that Verne would discover the irresistible, fist sized pastry known as ‘kouign-amann’, (pronounced: queen a-mahn). Breton is the Celtic language spoken in Brittany and in the local dialect kouign means ‘brioche’ or ‘cake’ and amann translates to ‘butter’. This small, round, multi-layered pastry is made with laminated dough, (originally bread dough, nowadays sometimes viennoiserie dough) it has layers of butter, incorporated with sugar and is baked until the sugar caramelizes and steam from the water in the butter expands the dough, resulting in its layered structure, resembling something like a sweet, caramelized croissant. The strict original Douarnenez recipe requires a ratio of 40 percent dough, 30 percent butter, and 30 percent sugar, and has been described by the New York Times as, “the fattiest pastry in all of Europe”. “Before all masters, necessity is the one most listened to, and who teaches the best.” Jules Verne Its creation is attributed to Yves-René Scordia, (1828–1878) who began baking it sometime around 1860 at the shop of Monsieur and Madame Crozon in Place Gabriel-Peri, on Rue Voltaire. Legend has it that the baker created his famous pastry on a particularly busy day, when having run out of cakes, he improvised. Scordia took his remaining bread-dough and began laminating it with butter and sugar, creating a buttery, caramelized, crusty pastry. Others have suggested Yves Rene made the cake in error when he grabbed the wrong flour, in what turned out to be a divine mistake. Crozon bakery’s customers must have enjoyed the results as they kept coming back for more, soon enough this Breton butter cake would be the most famous pastry in the region and people would be travelling to the ‘end of earth’ to get some. “We now know most things that can be measured in this world, except the bounds of human ambition!” Jules Verne In November 1999, in an effort to preserve their heritage, seventeen pastry chefs and bakers from Douarnenez came together to form the Kouign-Amann de Douarnenez Association. Their manifesto clearly stating their raison d’être: to appreciate and protect the authentic kouign-amann, and to obtain an indication géographique protégée, (IGP) which is an official label that indicates a food product’s geographic origins, just like you’d see on a wine from Burgundy, or pepper from Kampot for example. The association goes on to describe their rules and regulations with regards to authenticity: the quality (only use bread dough), freshness (must be eaten within 10 hours of baking), appearance (it should look almost over-cooked, due to its deep caramelization) and finally, presentation (it should be plated right-side up, never upside down). The President of the Association concludes in a letter: the KOUIGN-AMANN of DOUARNENEZ , when it is made according to the rules of the art, is totally different from others and this requires protection. The association could not let others sell, under the name KOUIGN-AMANN or KOUIGN-AMANN de DOUARNENEZ, a vulgar cake resembling from near or far, our GENUINE KOUIGN-AMANN de DOUARNENEZ . The trade and the techniques evolve but the evolutions cannot conceal all our gastronomic richness and especially its techniques which were perpetuated from generation to generation of Douarnenist craftsmen. How frustrating for bakers and pastry chefs to see their product, that is to say an authentic product from craftsmanship, rub shoulders with pale copies and other industrial products also called KOUIGN-AMANN. And with these wise words I will close my explanations which have allowed you to understand the reason for our motivation. Alain Le Berre The President of the Association In the latter decades of 19th Century, Jules Verne, who created magnificent machines to travel around the world in eighty days, to the very center of the earth and … Read more

Ten Things You Need to Know About Khmer New Year

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he most popular Cambodian holiday is just around the corner, so mark your calendars for Khmer New Year (KNY) from April 14 to 16th this year. KNY is one of the biggest holidays celebrated in Cambodia, many families gather in the countryside to celebrate the New Year and honor their ancestors. Running from Thursday, April 14, to Saturday, April 16, in 2022, KNY celebrations return after its two years hiatus. Here are 10 things to remember in celebrating the Cambodian New Year. Celebrated Internationally KNY is called “Choul Chnam Thmey” in Khmer and is the traditional celebration of the solar new year in Cambodia. The three-day public holiday marks the end of the harvesting season before the rainy season and begins on April the 13th, 14th or 15th depending on the ancient horoscope of “Maha Sangkran”. This holiday is also celebrated by other Buddhist countries like India, Bangladesh, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Laos and Thailand. First Day – “Maha Sangkran” The first day of Khmer New Year is called “Maha Sangkran”, which indicates a great movement of the sun’s position into a new zodiac sign. Traditionally, people will travel to the temples to offer monks food in the morning and receive blessings. For good luck, people wash their faces with holy water in the morning, their chests at noon, and their feet in the evening before they go to bed. Traditional Clothes On the first day of Khmer New Year, people wear new clothes to welcome the “angel” of the new year that comes on the day. Traditionally, the “sampot” or “sarong” is a fabric wrapped on the lower body style popular among men and women. “Chang Pong” is a cloth of any color, worn across the shoulder over the upper area of the woman. Guardian Angel of the New Year This is also the day when people celebrate the rising of the new angel(“Tevida”) of the new year. The new angel is decided depending on the day and time of the first day of the new year changes based on solar calendars. Preparations for the angel’s favorite foods are usually arranged on a table and people will light incense when the angel rises on an auspicious time. There are different angels that represent each of the seven days of the week. This year falls on Thursday, so expect Keriny Tevy, who is adorned with a Mondea flower tucked behind her ear and an emerald around her neck. She loves beans and sesames as a treat and will arrive on an elephant carrying a harpoon and a gun. Second Day: “Veareak Vanabat” The second day of Khmer New Year is a time for charitable acts, many do so by helping the poor and less fortunate, some may travel with their families to monasteries to pay respect to their ancestors. On the evening of this day, many people will build a mountain of sand surrounded by four smaller mounds to represent Buddha and his diciplies to honour their ancestors of the past. Monks will bless them with happiness and peace. Third Day – “Leung Sakk” On the third day of the New Year celebrations, people will wash and clean Buddha statues with scented water in a ritual called the “Pithi Srang Preah” ceremony. Bathing the Buddha images is a symbolic way to wash away the bad deeds of the past year and is traditionally done to bring luck to Cambodia on receiving the water it needs for the year. It is also seen as a kind deed that will bring longevity, good luck, happiness and prosperity in life. By washing their grandparents and parents, the children can receive good luck for the rest of the year. Songkran Water Fights Although the water blessing is steep in cultural traditions, the ceremony has evolved into fun water fights for the younger generation. Siem Reap is known to hold the Songkran celebrations, where everyone celebrates with water fights and loud music. These offerings of water and baby powder can develop into fun street battles engaged in water guns, throwing water balloon bombs, and splashing buckets of water on each other. Many people will shower each other with white powder (talc powder or flour) both for fun and as a symbol of cleanliness. Special Foods The Khmer New Year is also a time to prepare unique dishes of egg rolls, “ya-hon” (Khmer hot pot), Kralan (steamed rice cake mixed with beans, grated coconut, and coconut milk that’s stuffed inside a piece of bamboo and roasted), “Lort Cha” (noodles), “Num Pang”(baguette sandwiches), and Khmer Fish Amok (steamed curry). One of the most prized dishes, “Nom Ansom”, is typically served as a sweet sticky rice dessert with banana, but it can also be served savoury with pork and a potato-like starch filling. Dancing at Night Expect to see everyone celebrating with traditional and modern dance, often in a circle around a table or with a vase of flowers in the center. At the setting of the sun and as the day cools into the night, locals revel in the celebration of the new year with music and dancing. Traditional Folk Games In the villages the people engage in traditional Khmer games, they play games such as the Bas Angkunh ‘seed throwing’, Chaol Chhoung ‘twisted-scarf throwing’, Leak Kanséng ‘twisted-scarf hide’ and dance to traditional Khmer songs. ● Leak Kanseng: Similar to the westernized children’s game of “duck, duck, goose,” this is a game played by a group of young people sitting in a circle. Someone holding a “kanseng” or “krama” (Khmer towel or scarf) that is twisted into a round shape, walks around the circle while singing a song. The person walking secretly tries to place the “kanseng” behind one of the children. Once chosen, the person marked must pick up the “kanseng” and tag the person sitting next to him or her or and run to find a place to sit. The song imitates a hen protecting her chicks from a crow. The hen must protect … Read more

Six Places to Check Out in Siem Reap for Khmer New Year

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During last year’s global lockdowns, Siem Reap took the opportunity to renovate many of its ageing small roads and lights. Last October, the city underwent a massive upgrade in the city’s infrastructure by widening main roads, updating new pipes, and reconstructing parks. Meanwhile, many people living in Cambodia have been vaccinated to 81 percent inoculation rate around by November —just in time to reopen to tourism. Siem Reap is planning a low-key event in mid-April to celebrate the Khmer New Year. Although the list of the attractions and activities have yet been to be arranged for the Siem Reap Songkran 2022, hotels and attractions are preparing themselves to receive visitors. So get ready to enjoy the Songkran festivities again! Whether you are a visitor from another country or front the city, here are 6 things to check out while in Siem Reap. ● Dine-in Luxury with Malis Overlooking the Siem Reap River, visitors can treat themselves to a magical evening of reliving the Angkorian times while dining within the beautiful Angkor Wat-inspired Malis Restaurant. Surrounded by the mystical garden and water pond, this restaurant features the best Cambodian cuisine and ambience. Famous for highlighting the food that royalty dine on, this is the perfect place to capture the essence of Siem Reap. Be sure to try the iconic Fish Amok and the Bang Kang river lobster, which is marinated in the Khmer flavors of prahok and chilli paste, wrapped in foil for an intense flavour and grilled until golden. Located on Pokambor Avenue, reservations can be made at reservation.malissr@thaliashospitality.com or call +855(0)15 824 888. ● A Bold Palate at Pou Restaurant and Bar For the courageous foodies, head over to Pou Restaurant and Bar between Wat Damnak pagoda and the old market. There, chef Pou (uncle) Mork Mengly, is renowned for his take on fusion Siem Reap’s street food. He just has released his latest a la cart menu, and every dish listed looks TASTY! Ranging from a flavorful Chicken Curry to the more daring dish of Jungle Beef with Red Tree Ants, to the delightful Angkor Wat Temple Desert; there is a dish for everyone. In addition to the various cuisine, there are experimental cocktails and beehives for any adventurous diner looking to excite their tastebuds. ● Family Time at ICF Wake Park For Families looking to do more than temple hopping for Khmer New Years, stop by ICF Wake Park. There’s water fun for the whole family as you climb, bounce and slide your way through Adventure Island. The park includes the wakeboarding area, a climbing wall for adults and children, a man-made beach with an inflatables jungle for kids, as well as a bar and restaurant. The beautiful park is open on April 14th – 17th, from 11 am to 9 pm with a live cooking station from 7 pm to 9 pm. ● Strolling at Chocolate Garden Anyone looking to check local artisans, handicrafts, and vintage collectables; may find themselves strolling along Chocolate road towards the Chocolate Garden during the weekend in Siem Reap. Popular among the locals and visitors for their hot drinks and freshly made pastries, the cafe also hosts weekend markets for over a dozen vendors selling local crafts and antiques from 8 am to 4 pm every Saturday to Sunday. The concept started as a way to support local products and creative individuals with small startups has now blossomed to a beloved area. They also have a small library if anyone is tired of walking. ● Connect with Nature at The Kulen Elephant Forest Visitors looking to commune with nature can do so by getting to know a herd of elephants. The half-day tour is available for small group interaction with the animals at a community-run forest reserve in the Kulen Mountains, about an hour’s drive from the city. Here, visitors can walk with the elephants down a nature trail, then feed them bananas and sugarcane stalks. Later, you can follow the elephants to a nearby pond and watch them play. These formerly captive elephants were once used to give tourist rides at the Angkor Archaeological Park, are now retired and are raising funds for various conservation projects. ● Relax at Sokkhak Located in the old market area, one of the most recommended places to soothe your aches and weariness is Sokkhak Spa. Their namesake means ‘harmony’ in Khmer, offering massages and spa treatments by gentle professional therapists in a tranquil environment. Written by Sotheavy Nou

April Heat Brings Juicy Treat

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April is here and that means it’s Mango Season! This is a great chance to try famous Khmer mangos which are known for their sweet taste and juiciness. The mango harvest season is typically during March to April and from October to November. Mango trees have been cultivated in Cambodia thousands of years ago. It is a popular fruit usually eaten green or ripe with salt and chilli as a snack, shredded in a salad or with fish, and ripen with sticky rice as a dessert in Khmer cuisine. Eat it green, try them ripe, these stone fruits are packed with nutrients and are perfect for the tropical heat of April. Here are nine healthy reasons why you should go out and get some mangoes right now! Healthy Heart Mangoes contain magnesium and potassium, two nutrients associated with lower blood pressure and regular heartbeat. In addition, they contain a compound known as mangiferin, which early studies suggest may help reduce inflammation in the heart. Extensive studies reveal that mangiferin reduces cholesterol, triglycerides, and free fatty acids, as well as protects heart tissue. This powerful antioxidant also keeps cells healthy by fighting against oxidative stress. Improved Digestive Health The fiber in mangoes stimulates your digestive system and helps regulate your blood sugar levels. One cup of mango contains 3 grams of fiber, which is roughly 10 percent of what you need. Fiber slows down sugar absorption and helps regulate blood sugar levels. Dietary fiber has been an important factor for digestive health for years. Mangoes have been found to help alleviate constipation and maintain regularity. People who consume the daily recommended amount of fiber have a lower risk of cardiovascular disease, GERD, obesity, and hypertension. Support Immune System. Mangoes contains 20 valuable nutrients, including 50 percent of your daily recommended value of vitamin C, and 35 percent of your daily recommended value of vitamin A. Vitamin C not only protects your body against oxidative stress, but it also protects your skin from sun damage. A single cup of mango also contains about 10% of our daily dose of vitamin A, another essential nutrient that supports the immune system. Protect Eyes Carrots aren’t the only thing to help eyesight. If you are craving something sweet or sour, try a mango. Like carrots, this yellow orangish tropical fruit also has carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin, vitamin A, and beta carotene. These all help prevent eye damage and maintain eyesight, so you can see how green mangoes can ripen into their beautiful warm color. Fight Diabetes and Cancer The stone fruit is also a great source of protection from free radical damage. Free radicals are associated with many chronic diseases and aging in general. Mangoes contain high amounts of antioxidants, including beta-carotene and vitamin C, which can protect cells from free radical damage. Mangoes have phenolic acids, mangiferin, carotenoids, and gallotannins, which are anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anti-obesity, and anti-cancer benefits. Great for Skin Eating mango is a great way to improve your skin from the inside out. Mangoes are rich in vitamin C, which plays a role in skin health and may even help reduce the signs of aging. Keeping Fit Mango is low in fat and only has about 100 calories per serving. One of the benefits of eating a green mango is that the energy to eat the fruit is more than the calories it contains. A one-cup serving of mango also has 2.6 grams of fiber, which can help you stay feeling full longer and can substitute for junk food! Remember, ripe mango is high in sugar, so stick to the green ones. Pregnant Cravings Craving mangoes while eating for two? Perfect! A serving of mango has many nutrients to support the healthy development of your baby. One cup of this fruit has significant amounts of vital vitamins and minerals like vitamin C, A, B6, and folate to help support the development of a baby and can keep mama happy too. Sleeping Beauty Feeling sleepless? Mango can help! The juicy fruit contains vitamin B6, which is known for producing serotonin – a chemical that helps with sleep and regulates our mood. Three-quarters of a cup of mango typically provides 8 percent of your daily B6 needs for a snooze. Written by Sotheavy Nou

Topaz makes Asia top-100 eatery list

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The pandemic has not been kind to the restaurant industry as a whole. Thousands of good eateries have been forced to close over the past couple of years, many of which would no doubt have otherwise been thriving businesses today and Cambodia has suffered its share of culinary losses during the downturn. Despite the challenges in recent years, one of Cambodia’s long-time fine dining establishments has managed to not only survive but do so with award-winning distinction having made the “Asia’s Best Restaurants” list, which was announced on March 23. Although the official name of the awards is “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants”, their rankings actually extend out to the 100 best restaurants in Asia and Phnom Penh’s own Topaz was listed at 90 – the first time any Cambodian restaurant has cracked the Asia top 100 list. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants was launched in 2013 to celebrate gastronomy across the region and to provide local insight and culinary recommendations. There is no candidate list or online poll, rather the restaurants are nominated by a panel of more than 300 culinary experts through a structured and audited voting procedure. This year Topaz debuted on the list at 90 amongst such prestigious restaurants as The Chairman in Hong Kong, Gaggan Annam in Thailand, Odette in Singapore and Den in Tokyo. It is the first time in the celebrated list’s history that a Cambodian restaurant has been voted in. Pov Sopheak, Topaz’s executive chef who has been with the restaurant since 2002, was overjoyed at the news. “Honestly, my heart is bursting with joy. This is my second time in my over 20 year career as a chef that I’ve won an award like this. The first time was in 2011 when I placed 4th at the MLA Black Box culinary challenge in Australia. “I’m so proud of the work that my teammates and I did in order to make this list. I can’t thank them enough – each and every person who works at Topaz – because I know that this could only have happened with everyone’s efforts,” Sopheak tells The Post. Lina Hak, who joined Topaz in 2005 as a part time secretary and then became the general manager and director of operations a few years later, was also thrilled to have earned international recognition. “We are extremely honoured and I believe it’s a testament to Cambodia and what we can do. We see ourselves as ambassadors for Cambodian tourism. This award serves as a foundation for our pursuit of excellence through constant improvement,” says Hak. Hak continues, noting that the hospitality industry continues to deal with huge challenges wrought by the pandemic. The ban on dining out and the lockdown regulations impacted them greatly just like they did the entire restaurant sector and it was tough to stay positive at times with very few customers and no real idea about when it was all going to go back to normal. One thing they were not willing to compromise, Hak says – despite the added challenges – was the standard of quality of their food and dining experience and she sees a lesson for others in their commitment to high standards paying off for them in the end. “What I think is very exciting is that the younger crop of Cambodian chefs and restaurateurs can look at what we have accomplished and know it is possible – with the right commitment, with the right vision, with the right people on board,” Hak says. Hak says she thinks the biggest contributing factor for Topaz to making the list is the mentality and drive for excellence from every staff member when everyone has the same goal and puts in 110 per cent to try to achieve it and they are always trying to improve on every aspect of the dining experience. “Nothing is ever perfect. We can always do better. Even when we are riding high in the reviews and ratings, there is never settling for good enough. The belief here at Topaz is that things can always be improved upon. “Everyone who works here has the same mentality, which is to make the restaurant as good as it can possibly be. I am incredibly proud of the team for their unwavering dedication to Topaz and what we offer our guests,” the 37-year-old general manager says. Topaz first opened its doors in 1997, so making this list now in 2022 has been a nice 25th anniversary present for them and a recognition of their status as the top destination for French fine dining in the heart of Phnom Penh. Topaz aims to offer a genuine French fine-dining experience with authentic tastes and combinations of fresh ingredients sourced from the Marché Rungis in Paris or from carefully selected suppliers in France and Cambodia. However, though Topaz has a strong focus on French cuisine, Sopheak says he often adapts dishes to customers’ tastes and they do have some Asian dishes on their menu because. “We aren’t strictly just a French restaurant so much as we are really a French-Cambodian restaurant and we take pride in the work we do building up the skills of the next generation of young chefs, managers and other hospitality workers who learn how to do things the right way by working with us,” Sopheak says. Sopheak recounts how he made his own debut at Topaz at the bottom rung of the career ladder as a kitchen boy in October, 2002. He says he applied himself and gradually climbed the ladder in the restaurant’s kitchen until he was finally offered the position of chef de cuisine in 2010. “I first studied cooking with the NGO Friends International, which is known in particular for its restaurants Friends and Romdeng in Phnom Penh and Marum in Siem Reap. But then at Topaz my training was taken to the next level. Sopheak’s climb wasn’t easy because Alain Darc – the master chef who he trained under – is someone whose demands for quality … Read more