Thalias Hospitality 
It was a real honour for Thalias Hospitality to cater for the ASEAN Meeting Gala Dinner on August 4th 2022. The event was attended by more than a dozen foreign ministers including U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken, Japan’s Yoshimasa Hayashi, and senior diplomats of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).
This August, Khéma Restaurant is proudly opening its doors in the landmark Flatiron by Meridian building to the west of Phnom Penh train station. It’s taken more than expected (thank you Covid) but on the first day of August Khéma Flatiron finally opened its doors to the general public: a brand new Khéma venue, with the same great menu and a spectacular location on the 28th floor giving views in every direction across Phnom Penh and on a clear day even as far away as Phnom Aural in Kampong Speu. This new Khéma is a celebration of the best of traditional and modern values. A stunning contemporary design, with clean, open spaces, marble-topped tables and an exquisite curving copper-topped bar provides a fresh, cosmopolitan backdrop not just for those incredible views but also for our way of elevating time-honoured French cooking. This is a venue for a city that’s permanently on the move, always growing, always looking forward; like its people. You’ll find here all the things you’ve long loved about Khéma’s sister outlets on Pasteur, at Khéma La Poste, and not forgetting Khéma Angkor. Our fabulous Free-Flow Breakfast, our Wine & Dine events (just imagine the joy of savouring endless plates of cheese, charcuterie and more while looking out over Phnom Penh’s constellation of twinkling city lights), and soon we will be offering the rightly famous Khéma Business Lunch deal (one of the best value lunch deals in Phnom Penh). Khéma Flatiron will lift your spirits, we have no doubt. We still have more up our sleeve too, and are looking forward to the imminent opening of Siena, an Italian-style steakhouse. Keep an eye on October, because we’re sure you won’t want to miss this. And don’t forget that, if you’re in a hurry, there’s always Khéma GO on the ground floor. Looking forward to seeing you all soon! Written by Nicky Sullivan
“Muftis and bishops should be like ripe camembert cheeses – a bit on the nose and not for the faint-hearted, but memorable!” Michael Leunig It was over half a century ago, 1966 that the then French President, General and Statesman Charles de Gaulle made his famous speech at Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh, in front of an estimated crowd of 100,000 people. In his address de Gaulle praised Prince Sihanouk for his ambitious development and modernization policies and for his neutral stance in the expanding war between Vietnam and the United States of America. De Gaulle called on the U.S. to extract itself from the region, believing that only a political agreement would bring about peace and restore regional stability, “One must leave countries to manage their own destiny in their own way” was his famous declaration. Of course, one of de Gaulle’s more famous quotes was the statement “Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a deux cent quarante-six variétés de fromage?” –how can you govern a country which has two hundred and forty-six varieties of cheese? So, it should perhaps be of no surprise that the French Bistrot Khema, (significant importers and purveyors of fine cheeses), immediately saw in the development of the fresh milk industry in Cambodia, an opportunity to begin making their own cheeses locally. Working with international dairy consultant Nicolas Rousseau, the first cheese to be released was a creamy fresh blanc that was named ‘Le Rousseau’ in honour of their mentor. Nicolas saw only high expectations for the local industry, “The industry in Cambodia has the right breed of dairy cows in use, the diet supplied is very good and the fat content exceptional, beyond my expectations”. Khema has been producing and selling to the market, fresh blanc cheese, ash rolled fresh cheese, and mozzarella. They are also developing new cheeses, such as a Neuchâtel, and a raclette style cheese. Head Chef at Thalias, Sopheak Pov also spoke of his hopes that they will soon be experimenting with blue-mold cheeses. However, a very special cheese project, one that has taken over two years to evolve, has finally reached fruition. “The famous soft watches are nothing else than the tender, extravagant, solitary, paranoic-critical camembert of space and time.” Salvador Dali Dali’s soft clocks Salvador Dali (1904-1989) remains the most famous artist of the Surrealist movement, many of the images he depicted in his work have become widely known, some of them iconic, such as his enduring soft clocks. The clocks first appeared in his 1931 masterpiece: The Persistence of Memory, one of the most recognizable works of all Surrealism. It is widely recognized and frequently referred to in popular culture to this day. The work itself is sometimes referred to as “Melting Clocks” or, “Soft Watches”. It is a deeply personal painting for Dali and depicts a memory from his childhood, the melting clocks representing the relativity of time and space and the breakdown of a fixed cosmic order. Set in the Bay of Roses where Dali spent his childhood, the work depicts Dali himself looking for all intents and purposes like a soft, amoeba like creature lying helpless on the beach. Many suggested that Dali was inspired, or was even making a comment on Alfred Einstein’s theory of relativity however; Dalí famously replied that he was inspired to paint the melting watches while he was eating runny some particularly runny Camembert cheese. It triggered in him a memory of a visit to the doctor when he was still just a child. The doctor said, “Show me your tongue.” Dalí intentionally misread the words montrer (to show) and langue (tongue) as montre (watch) and langeur (languid) and this gave him the idea for the soft and melting pocket-watches, resembling the running of a soft and melting wheel of Camembert cheese. Camembert as art and inspiration. “The camembert with its venison scent defeats the Marolles and Limbourg dull smells; It spreads its exhalation, smothering the other scents under its surprising breath abundance.” Emile Zola The Harel Cheese Dynasty Whilst records show that the famous raw-milk cheese from the Camembert region of Normandy has been produced there since the end of the 17th century, there is a more romantic legend of its invention by the young cheesemaker Marie Harel, who was taught to make it by a refractory priest, Abbot Charles-Jean Bonvoust, hidden in 1796–97 at the Manor of Beaumoncel where she worked. The Abbott is said to have come from the famous cheese region of Brie. Marie Harel did make Camembert cheese, according to the local custom and she initiated a dynasty of cheese makers who produced Camembert cheese on a large scale, most notably her grandson Cyrille Paynel, born in 1817. The success of the production of Camembert in the first half of the 19th century was largely due to the descendants of Harel, but around the 1870s, other Norman cheese makers began to contest the family monopoly. The town of Vimoutiers had built a statue to Marie in her honour; on 14 June 1944, during the Battle of Normandy, Vimoutiers was bombarded. The village was destroyed, and many lives were lost. Four hundred people from the small town of Van Wert, Ohio, (who called themselves the cheesemakers) in the United States, contributed to the costs of reconstruction and reparation of the town and this included the replacement of Marie Harel’s statue in 1953. Camembert Whilst it has slightly less fat content than Brie, Camembert has a stronger, earthier flavour than its counterpart. Traditional Camembert is made from fresh, raw milk, high in fat and rich in proteins. The milk is warmed and then poured into large vats, where natural rennet is added. Once the curds have formed, they are ladled out carefully (to prevent them from breaking) into individual cheese molds. When the cheeses have drained sufficiently, they are turned over. On the second day, the cheeses are removed from the molds and taken to the salting room. Here dry salt is shaken onto … Read more
Nestled in the foothills of Mount Ventoux, on the south-easternmost fringes of the Rhone Valley wine region; the vineyards of Ventoux are higher and cooler than those of its more famous neighbours. The Beast Mont Ventoux; for the world’s most famous cyclists its name is legend, “The Beast of Provence”, a will-sapping, heart-breaking, soul-destroying stage of the world’s most famous bicycle race, the Tour de France. When the Mistral wind that blows across Southern France is angry, howling across the face of the mountain, a constant, ferocious roar, it can bring fear into a rider’s heart; lives have been lost here. Mont Ventoux, at 1,909m, is the highest mountain in the Provence region, geologically it is a part of the Alps; yet it stands alone to the north of the Luberon range, separated by the Monts de Vaucluse, east of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The top of Mont Ventoux is bare limestone, giving the barren peak the appearance of being snow-covered year-round; (its actual snow cover lasts from December to April). The beast dominates the landscape, standing like a beacon. The Mont Ventoux area has been listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1990. A Dancing Song to the Mistral Wind “Wildly rushing, clouds out-leaping, Care-destroying, Heaven sweeping, Mistral wind, thou art my friend! Surely ’twas one womb did bear us, Surely ’twas one fate did pair us, Fellows for a common end…….” Die fröhliche Wissenschaft (1887) – Friedrich Nietzsche Le Sacre Mistral The Mistral is a violent, cold, northwest wind that accelerates when it passes through the valleys of the Rhône and races out onto the coast. It affects the northeast of the plain of Languedoc and Provence and often causes sudden storms out in the Mediterranean. The mistral is usually accompanied by clear, fresh weather, and it plays an important role in creating the agricultural climate in the regions of the Rhone and Provence. It can reach speeds of more than 90 km/h during the day and usually blows for two or three days at a time, all through winter and spring. Old farmhouses were built with their backs to the wind here, (facing south) with sturdy north walls devoid of windows. The bell towers on the churches are topped with open frameworks, in order to allow the Mistral to pass through them, lest it topple them over all together. Locals blame the Mistral for headaches, anxiety and say it is the reason for bad behavior from husbands, pets, and children. Many attest to the fact that it was ‘The Mistral’ that drove the artist, Vincent Van Gogh so stark raving mad that he cut off his own ear! However, the Mistral does have some beneficial effects on viticulture in the region, helping keep temperatures and humidity down during the ripening season, blowing away rain clouds, and preventing diseases from taking hold amongst the canopies of the vines. The Velvet Underground Nestled in the foothills of Mount Ventoux, on the south-easternmost fringes of the Rhone Valley wine region; the vineyards of Ventoux are higher and cooler than those of its more famous neighbours. The vineyards here are also somewhat more protected from the ravages of the Mistral. The cooler ripening conditions see grapes retain greater acidity, with more complexity and concentration of flavour, giving the wines depth, elegance and animation. Being less famous than their neighbours keeps prices in check as well, which means the region is offering up some of the best bargain-buy, everyday-drinking, value-for-money wines from across the width and breadth of the entire Rhone region. Timeless In the 1970s Aline and Denis Aymard planted vines in the Ventoux region near Carpentras, at first the wines were produced at a local co-operative, but soon convinced in the quality of their grapes and the potential of both their vineyard and the region, the Aymard’s soon constructed their own winemaking facilities, becoming one of the first independent producers in the region. Soon Jean-Marie and Michael Aymard were working hand in hand with their parents to maintain the vineyards and produce the wines. And today their daughters, Anne-Laure and Carine continue the family tradition with their passion for the vines and wines of Ventoux. Their vineyards now extend to over thirty hectares at the foot of Mount Ventoux. The family is totally committee to sustainable, eco-friendly viticulture and winemaking and seek to be in balance and harmony with the natural environment all around them. Taste Domaine Aymard Intemporel Rouge: a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. A medium bodied red with good acidity and dry, savoury fruit characters. The wine showed lovely primary fruit notes of raspberry berlingot, (Grenache), red current, violets and black tea (Cinsault) with a dollop of satsuma plum and hints of olive tapenade and peppery spices (Syrah). A fine, dry red with a generous mid palate of fruit, balanced complexity, fine, subtle tannins and charming, chalky, fresh acidity. Written by Darren Gal
At GO Artisan Bakery, we pride ourselves on making a pure butter croissant that brings together all the rich, buttery silkiness, the fabulous flakiness, and rich flavour that the best croissants deliver Buttery puff pastry, lightly crisp on the outside, meltingly soft and slightly chewy on the inside with a silkiness that comes from the abundance of butter used in its preparation, the croissant is perhaps one of France’s most instantly recognisable creations. The café-croissant is a French institution and probably one of the first things every visitor to France indulges in. It is the opening phase of their journey, a confirmation that (yes!) they really are in France, that life is good and it’s about to get better. But if you can’t be in France, you can still taste France, and at just a couple of dollars for a freshly brewed coffee with a delicious, freshly baked croissant to dip into it, well, there aren’t many better starts to the day than that. Surprisingly, for such a nationally iconic food, the croissant is actually a relatively recent invention, and its story doesn’t even start in France. Instead, the croissant’s history curves all the way back to 17th century Austria, and the much mooted origin story of their very curvy kipferl. The kipferl though is much “breadier” than the sumptuous pastry that has become France’s favourite breakfast, as indeed were the earliest iterations in France. It was an Austrian named August Zang who made the Austrian kipferl a popular indulgence in 1830’s Paris. But even then, the first written reference to it appears in Payen’s Des Substances Alimentaires, published in 1853, while ten years later it pops up again in the Littré dictionary, where it is defined, rather uninspiringly, as a “little crescent-shaped bread or cake”. A later reference in Les Consummations de Paris (1875) includes ‘croissants for coffee’ in a list of ordinary, as opposed to fine, pastry goods. Definitely not our croissant then, which succeeds at being both ‘ordinary’, as in every day, but lusciously indulgent all at once. The first published recipe doesn’t even appear until 1905, just before French chefs rolled up their sleeves and made this Viennoiserie their very own by melding the idea with puff pastry. The croissant was born. Thank all the gods. At GO Artisan Bakery, we pride ourselves on making a pure butter croissant that brings together all the rich, buttery silkiness, the fabulous flakiness (croissants are probably not advised for those who are obsessively tidy), and rich flavour that the best croissants deliver. Dip it in your coffee (the French way), or slather it with butter and jam (the English way), or just savour it on its own: plain, simple and unadorned deliciousness. But first turn the crescent-shaped treat on its side and instantly put a smile on the start to your day. And then you get to taste it. Written by Nicky Sullivan
After Yi sang, Kanji and Uy Kuyteav, Sevensea is the youngest restaurant of the Almond group of hotels and restaurants, owned by the prestigious Cambodian chef Luu Meng. Located just across from Ko Pich Island on the Tonle Bassac River, Sevensea occupies the ground and second floors of the Almond Bassac river hotel. It’s billed as a “seafood restaurant”, but in reality, the establishment’s menu has much more to tempt its clientele: some 50 dim-sum, ten egg dishes, nine varieties of kuy teav, and four kinds of noodles. You can also choose Japanese food: sushi, sashimi and salads. In addition to dim sum, Chinese cuisine is also well represented with salads, stir-fries, Cantonese roast, stir-fried rice and noodles, and soups from the Middle Kingdom (China). Seafood is also honoured: there is plenty of fresh oysters, shrimp, fish, but also some of the most emblematic and luxurious ingredients of Chinese seafood cuisine, such as abalone and sea cucumbers. The desserts, meanwhile, are decidedly Cambodian. To choose among this incredible variety of dishes is of course quite difficult. In any case, if you want to have a representative sample of the restaurant cuisine, several visits are necessary. Sevensea is a popular destination for Phnom Penh’s Chinese population who are looking to reconnect with the delicious atmosphere of Cantonese or Hong Kong-style weekend family brunches and their legendary dim-sum. The object is to select as many varieties as possible (the only limit being everyone’s appetite), in order to vary the pleasures. The most classic dim-sum are present on the Sevensea menu: “xiaomai” (a kind of cylindrical ravioli stuffed with pork, steamed and recognisable by its yellow envelope), ravioli with rice flour envelope and various fillings, “malaigao” (Malaysian cake), sticky rice with fatty pork and cooked in lotus leaves, fried shrimp dumplings and fried ravioli accompanied by the sweet mayonnaise that the Chinese love. A meal of dim sum can be perfectly complemented by a Cantonese rotisserie dish, such as a succulent portion of “chashao” (roasted pork belly cooked with honey), or stir-fried rice, of which several versions are offered, including “Cantonese rice” (which is actually called “Yangzhou stir-fried rice” in Chinese, after the Chinese city where this dish was developed). The first floor of the restaurant is occupied by the kitchen, which is partly open, and by a large, airy and bright dining room, elegantly laid out and furnished with a few square tables and many round tables such as those traditionally found in Chinese restaurants. On the second floor, there are seven tastefully decorated private lounges where groups seeking privacy can enjoy a quiet meal. The service in the dining room is just about flawless. Moreover, the service team is multilingual: Khmer, of course, but also English and Chinese are the languages frequently heard in the restaurant. The food is of good quality and the prices, if they are far from being the cheapest of the capital (it is necessary to count about fifteen dollars per person, drinks not included), remain nevertheless reasonable. The quality/price ratio is quite good. Only one reproach to address: the parking capacity for cars and motorcycles is insufficient considering the popularity of the restaurant, especially on weekends. Ratings (out of 5): Atmosphere: 4.5 Service: 4 Quality of the products: 4 Presentation of the dishes: 4,5 Quality/price ratio : 4,5 Overall score : 4,3 Texts and photographs by Pascal Médeville Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag
Rediscovery of the restaurant Malis Siem Reap, one of the best addresses of Cambodian cuisine in the kingdom History More than six years ago, though it still feels like yesterday, Malis Siem Reap formally opened its doors. It took five years of searching for the perfect location before the first shovel could hit the ground to create the space and place for a new bastion of luxury on the west river bank in Temple Town. Large capacity On this prime site, just a little north of Old Market, a new building with a total area of two thousand square meters was constructed with space for up to 300 people to be comfortably catered to at any moment in time. Luxury The design of the place is rooted in luxury and elegance, with a strong Angkorian twist. Visitors will see elements of the temples all around them. The restaurant’s menu is quite similar to that of Malis in Phnom Penh, although the number of dishes is a bit smaller. This choice is explained by the fact that some ingredients available in the capital are unavailable locally, at least at the level of quality required by Chef Luu Meng. Malis cuisine is more a “fusion” cuisine than a gastronomy within the strict limits of traditional Cambodian cuisine. Malis’ motto is “Living Cambodian Cuisine”. This translates into a selection of dishes inspired by Cambodian culinary tradition in its broadest sense, but interpreted in a modern way. This state of mind makes the most intransigent say that the Malis cuisine is more a “fusion” cuisine than a gastronomy within the strict limits of traditional Cambodian cuisine. Tradition However, it is indeed within Khmer traditions that the dishes proposed here draw their source. To be convinced of this, you just have to go through the menu: Takeo sausages, raw beef salad (phlea sach ko), bamboo shoot and smoked fish soup, pork salad with banana flowers, sour forest soup (m’chou prei), fish amok or beef saraman are undeniably Cambodian compositions. Quality and variety Among the many dishes offered, some deserve special attention: the fried soft shell crab, served with a pepper dipping sauce, will delight seafood lovers; the slow-cooked pork shank, a Chinese-inspired dish, accompanied by its bamboo shoots, is distinguished by its tenderness; the generous portion of rice sautéed with Kampot crab will be for those who have exhausted their strength climbing the temples of the archaeological park a consolation that is both tasty and invigorating. A true milestone in the Cambodian gastronomic tradition The scallops with green pepper are also worth a closer look: generously served in a half shell, the muscles of the shell are cooked to perfection, their texture is perfect and their flavors are magnified by the fresh pepper. The fragrant soup (sâm-lâ prâ-hae) with smoked fish is of uncommon finesse, and is a milestone in the Cambodian gastronomic tradition. The very famous fish amok (or better yet, fish head amok) is a vibrant tribute to the “Khmer national dish”. And among the vegetables, we will pay special attention to the sautéed loofah. Efficient service The service is efficient and considerate. The set up in the kitchen is obviously perfect, because the wait is very short. The only complaint is that the music played at the reception is different from the one played in the dining room, so if your table is near the entrance door of the dining room, every time the door opens, it is an unpleasant cacophony. Also note that the prices are commensurate with the quality of the food. Ratings (out of 5): Atmosphere: 4 Service: 4 Quality of the products: 4,5 Presentation of the dishes : 4,5 Quality/price ratio : 4,5 Overall score : 4,3 Text and photos by Pascal Médeville Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag
The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking During its fifth session, (5.COM) held on the 19th of November 2010, the Intergovernmental Committee, for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage elected to put French Gastronomic Meals on the Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Inscribed in 2010 (5.COM) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: ‘The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an aperitif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties.’ It should be obvious to anyone that the French take their food and dining very seriously and there are a number of traditions and customs that accompany it. Various culinary travel sites list scores of rules to follow in order not to let you make a faux pax at table. The website snippetsofparis.com lists 32 dos and don’ts of French dinning etiquette yet whilst traditional French eating customs are characterized by punctuality, they are also about taking the time to enjoy one’s food and one’s family. For most of us, the most common phrase for announcing the commencement of a French meal is to hear the host offer the welcome phrase, “Bon appétit”, which is usually loosely translated to English as, ‘enjoy your meal’ but others suggest the more literal translation of, ‘good appetite’. However, according to Myaka Meier of the Beaumont Etiquette finishing school, the phrase is not only impolite, guests will quite possibly find it offensive! Founded in London, Beaumont Etiquette now has offices in New York and California and offers courses in British, Continental European and American etiquette. Apparently, according to Meier the phrase is akin to saying something along the lines of, “good digestion,” and this would be highly improper given its connected reference to bowel movement. According to a Maia de la Baume, writing for the New York Times from Paris: “In France, ‘Bon appétit’ is not proper,” quoting Marie de Tilly, right, who teaches etiquette there. “When people use it, it sounds just like an invitation for a good digestion and suggests that you are so hungry that you may jump on any food that would cross your mouth.” However, I will leave it to Frenchwoman Géraldine Lepère, and her very entertaining language website, Comme Une Française who says: “You might find, here and there, contrarian urban legends saying that “Bon appétit” is actually impolite — that it hints at bodily functions that come with eating, and would be considered rude or in bad taste… Well, it’s false! Please, keep saying Bon appétit at the beginning of a meal – it’s the signal that the meal can start, that you’re all ready to eat. You can also say it to people who are already eating. For instance, if you’re hiking in the French mountains and you come across a couple of other hikers sitting down for their picnic, you can tell them Bon appétit as a greeting, while you’re walking by. If someone tells you Bon appétit, you can answer Merci (= thank you) if they’re not eating as well (if they’re a waiter, for instance). If they are eating at the same time, you only need to wish them the same: Bon appétit”. Written by Darren Gall
SIN Vannay joined the Malis Siem Reap team four years ago as a restaurant supervisor, and continues to grow and flourish there, learning and doing more than ever before, while also setting a positive example for her young daughters. Vannay grew up at Roluos near Bakong temple, one of the earliest monuments of the Khmer Empire, just 15 miles away from Siem Reap. There, she grew up alongside her younger brothers and sisters while her parents grew and sold sugar cane juice. Vannay often accompanied her mother on the side of the roads leading towards the temple as she sold the sweet juice to passersby. At six years of age, she joined the local primary school before continuing her high-school education at Wat Svay in Siem Reap. Because of the distance and condition of the roads, she could only return home on the weekends. And while she has huge ambitions that her own two daughters, aged 13 and 15, might be able to go on to university, that option was not open to her. Vannay left school at 15, and went straight to work at a local hotel. Over the years, she worked with a number of establishments with excellent reputations before finally coming to join us at Malis where she hopes to continue, and continue growing. “When I started here, I had only done operations work before, but now I am doing so much more and with a much bigger team to supervise than I have ever worked with before too, so I am enjoying it very much. Sometimes I worry that I don’t know how to do what I need to learn, but I always try my best, and I enjoy learning so much,” she says. In that respect, she has found her experience at Malis to be hugely enriching. “Other companies don’t really care about you learning and growing. They just want you to stay at the same level, and never give any time or encouragement for anything else. But here, we are all pushed to learn as much as we can, and it is very good. And it goes beyond what we learn for ourselves. I had never worked in a place before where as soon as someone learns something new, they share it with everyone else, but that is what happens here because the culture of learning is so strong that we all want everyone to participate in it as much as the company does”. One of Vannay’s current challenges is getting to grips with computers and with email communications with local tour operators and hotels etc, for bookings for the restaurant. “I had never worked with computers before, so it was all new,” she says, somewhat wide-eyed even thinking about it. But it’s clear that she is relishing the opportunity to learn and do and be more than before, not only out of a strong sense of duty, curiosity and professionalism but also, it seems clear, because this is how she can set an example to her daughters. “I want them to go to university, but I also need them to learn how to make money before they go,” she says. “It is very hard to find money! And Covid has taught us all how difficult things can get and that we cannot see the future. So I am encouraging them to find ways to earn their living, and to find skills so they can support themselves. I can teach them how to manage money, but they have to make it first”. For now, she hopes to move up the rankings at Malis, and knows she still has plenty more to learn along the way. “I will learn more and more every day, it makes me very happy”. Written by Nicky Sullivan
Palm sugar has a strong bond with Cambodia and is the livelihood of farmers in Kampong Speu while showing its economic potential in the international market. Despite this significance, the issues of labor shortages and land development could lead to its disappearance. Kampong Speu is famous for many things, such as ecotourism destinations, the tallest mountain in Cambodia, and the palm trees that decorate the rice fields along the roads of the province. Bordering Kampot, Kandal, Takeo, Koh Kong, and Kampong Chhnang, one third of Cambodia’s 3 million palmyra trees grow in Kampong Speu. Palm trees are very important in the daily life of the Cambodian people, especially in rural areas. Palm leaves can be used for roofing, hats, mats, baskets, and the trunks can be processed into boats, furniture, souvenirs, and houses. The palmyra fruit can be used in desserts and dishes like palm cakes and the flowers can be used to make sweet palm juice and even produce alcoholic drinks. You can also use palm juice to produce palm sugar, and in 2019, these palms were registered with the EU Geographical Indications system that “protects the names of products that originate from specific regions and have specific qualities or enjoy a reputation linked to the production territory.” The GI recognition protects the consumer and distinguishes quality products while also helping producers to better market their products. Food Culture and Palm Sugar With a delicious sweet taste different from cane sugar and color and texture that varies depending on its intended use, palm sugar is popular in the kitchen of the Khmer people, especially in rural areas. The popular dessert that I want to introduce here is the Glutinous Rice Balls Dessert (នំផ្លែអាយ), which is a famous dessert amongst Cambodian people. The Glutinous Rice Balls Dessert (នំផ្លែអាយ) is usually made with three ingredients: glutinous rice flour, palm sugar, and coconut. The method of making these cakes is very simple despite their delicious, sweet taste. First, we have to mix the glutinous rice flour with warm water, then flatten it, add the palm sugar, and pack it tightly. Next, we put the sugar-packed balls in boiling water until they float, put them in cold water and strain them on a plate, sprinkle them with coconut meat, and they are ready-to-eat. Taking Kampong Speu’s palm sugar to another level through organization As a reporter trainee at Focus: Ready for Tomorrow I was excited to do a story about Kampong Speu’s palm sugar for Cambodian Eats! in which I would go to witness the farmer’s lives and see the process of palm sugar production with my own eyes. Unfortunately, the third community outbreak of Covid-19 was widespread, and we were discouraged from visiting. However, to learn more about the significance of palm sugar in Cambodia, I contacted Mr. Sam Saroeun, the President of the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar Promotion Association, by phone. Established in 2009, the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar Promotion Association’s main aim is to protect and promote Kampong Speu palm sugar and acts as a non-profit, inter-professional association, overseeing the product quality assurance and connecting producers and trading members. The production members of this association are 150 families in the Oudong and Samrong Tong districts of Kampong Speu province and Ang Snoul district in Kandal province. Around 10 companies are the trading members of the communities that supply sugar for both domestic and export markets. Palm sugar and traditional livelihoods Mr. Sam Saroeun explained that what makes Kampong Speu palm sugar unique is the geography of the province, which is a lowland area with moderate rainfall and favorable soil for palm trees. According to Saroeun, the greater the yearly drought, the more delicious the palm sugar. With the harvest season in Kampong Speu usually lasting 6 months, from December to May, Saroeun said that palm sugar production depends on nature, making it difficult to estimate and guarantee specific yields. In 2021, the association could only supply approximately 150 tons of palm sugar due to the weather and labor shortages from the pandemic, but the demand was much greater, according to Saroeun. Usually, a family business that starts with getting the juice from the tree and finishes with the stirring process that produces palm sugar, association members are required to have at least 15 palm trees to produce palm sugar. Some farmers own their palm trees, while others rent palm trees to produce sugar. Living in Kampong Speu’s Oudong district, like other palm sugar producers, Mr. Sang Pang also farms the land and has only three or four palm trees. However, he rents more than 30 palm trees to make sugar and in exchange gives 5 kg of palm sugar per year to the palm tree’s owner. “(It is) more profitable, that’s why I work hard. Just try hard, we get a lot [of sugar] and [are] not so tired,” Pang said. While palm sugar in this area has long provided a source of income to locals, Saroeun’s association has improved the lives of farmers by providing the structure that ensures quality and fair pricing. “Before they joined the association, they had faced a lot of problems in palm sugar making because sugar was expensive only during the beginning of the season,” Saroeun said. “The Kampong Sugar Sugar Association does not do that….The price is negotiated from the start until the end of one season. Next year, we will negotiate (price) again.” Currently, farmers can sell Kampong Speu palm sugar for 6,800 KHR (1.67USD) per kilogram, a much better price than non-association farmers can get. Bitter Challenges Although palm sugar prices have risen and stabilized, labor and producer shortages – especially among the next generation of Cambodians – pose a threat to this traditional industry. “Right now, only 20 percent of those who produce the sugar are in their 30s, but 70 to 80 percent are in their 40s and 50s,” Saroeun said. “Young people, if they have the strength…they go to work as labor workers instead.” Saroeun said that … Read more
