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Monthly Market Offers Neighbourly Bliss

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If you look around the busy street of 158-160 Norodom Boulevard on the first Sunday of the month, more often than not, you’ll see a cluster of people around the tall gates of Odom Garden for the monthly Farmers’ Market. The market, which has drawn in families, vendors, pet-lovers, and food-aficionados alike, is the brainchild of the dynamic duo, Jennifer and Pesei. Hailing from Sydney, Australia, Jennifer worked with Phnom Penh local Pesei at an NGO for a few years, before discovering that they were efficient in working together. “We have a lot of experience in coordinating programmes and management,” Jennifer explained. “Especially in the realm of hospitality and tourism.” Both in their 30s, the women began organizing the Odom Farmers’ Market as a simple concept to hopefully provide an opportunity within the community for locals and expats to sell organic produce. Since then, the market has expanded into a bazaar of artisans, pop up shops, and a venue for smaller businesses to market their products in a beautiful location. “Odom Garden was being officially opened at the time (September 2020) and hosted the market as a venue with the hopes to entice more visitors to this newly created (though temporary) community outdoor space provided by Urban Living Solutions (ULS),” Jennifer recalled. “When we first started our market had 12 vendors and initially we found it quite difficult to attract organic produce vendors to the space as it was relatively unknown.” They then extended their invitation to other independent businesses to join the first event — similar to what Jennifer had seen in the Australian farmers’ market, which offered a few various services and products from local small businesses. Odom Garden served as the perfect spot for their idea to grow. Located in the middle of the city, it had 4,000sqm which includes tall trees, a family-friendly playground, a dog-friendly area, and a cafe. “OFM became a passion project and we love coordinating it and being part of this community,” Jennifer smiled. “Odom Garden is an incredible space — it offers a great day out with food options onsite. Combine that with a vibrant community market atmosphere and you can understand why OFM has become such a highly anticipated monthly event in Phnom Penh.” Waking from Hibernation In 2020, they were able to run four successful markets before the pandemic restricted their activities until November. They implemented safety regulations by asking vendors and visitors to wear masks, undergo temperature checks while attempting to check for QR registration and vaccine cards as much as possible. Small businesses struggled to keep their venues and maintain their sales during travel restrictions and health scares, but the Odom Farmers’ Market (OFM) became an event to regain the loss of sales. Due to the affordable table rent, outside area, and high traffic, many small businesses flooded the registration for the market. Each event became different, with the vendor list is constantly changing to include new brands and crowd favorites, seeking to appeal to everyone. “For both of us, it’s important that OFM doesn’t limit access for brands based on what a vendor sells,” Jennifer stated. “If you have a small business, a side-hustle (something many people have these days thanks to COVID), a service business or NGO and want to get the message out to the community about your product or business – OFM is the place to do that.“ Both ladies enjoy seeing the hamlet of vendors bloom into a one-stop-shop of convenience for visitors to savour and explore what their local community has to offer. Jennifer noted that the market had become something to look forward to each month. The market draws visitors looking to make time to catch up with friends make plans to eat, shop local brands, and escape the concrete walls of the city for a while. Both Jennifer and Pisei expect the concept of the market to spread to other areas of the city as life returns to normal and new travellers arrive. “We hope that we can continue OFM for some time yet,” Jennifer said wistfully. “Odom Garden is a temporary community space, the hope is we would be able to move the market to another location in future however who knows what will happen!” Written by Sotheavy Nou

Celebrating 30 Years of French and Khmer Culture

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The French Institute of Cambodia will celebrate its 30th anniversary this March. The institute has had a successful start to the year with functions like cinema screenings, kid’s activities, the European Film Festival, and a short exhibition on fashion with Colorblind, but they have even bigger plans for March. Rodriguez Valentin, the Deputy Director and Cultural Attaché at Institut français du Cambodge (IFC) since August 2020, is excited for the Anniversary weekend. There will be dance performances by the Royal Ballet of Cambodia, the New Cambodian Artists,and by the students of the Princess Bopha Devi Dance. Including musical concerts by KlapYaHands, Chapei legend Kong Nai, and special performances of shadow theater with the Kok Thlok association and Phare Ponleu Selpak, to name a few. “March will be the inauguration of a cultural season around books and graphic novels, as well as the anniversary weekend of the French Institute on March 18-20,” Valentin stated. Adding that ‘Cases départ’, an exhibition dedicated to books and graphic novels by Akira Fukaya, Tian, Philippe Dupuy, Loo Hui Phang, Patrick Samnang Mey, Michael Sterckeman, Séra, Uth Roeun, Fabrice Beau, Denis Do, Marguerite Duras, Rithy Panh, Agathe Pitié, Pénélope Bagieu, and more. There will be a story competition aimed at participants ages 11 to 18. Contestants who wish to enter their stories must do so in French or Khmer individually or with a group, by March 14. Advocating for Film and Books The French Institute works with rising and established film directors from Cambodia. Films by filmmakers like Davy Chou and oscar-nominated Rithy Panh have been shown at the institute. They are also working closely with Anti-Archive members, such as Kavich Neang, whose newly released fiction White Building will be shown in March in their in-house cinema. Working with organizations like the Bophana Center, the Cambodia International Film Festival, and distribution companies in Cambodia, such as Westec and Cineplex, also allows the institute to bring French cinema to a Khmer audience. Valentin adds that French director, Fabrice Beau’s new movie, The Khmer Smile, will premiere at IFC in March on the anniversary weekend. Adapting to Hard Times Although many institutions in the cultural field have struggled during the pandemic, the French Insitute has managed to stay relevant in the local community by providing access online to conferences or book and movie recommendations, as well as teasers for exhibitions. Even with programs offering access to movies, exhibitions, free outdoor screenings, conferences, art performances, concerts, French classes (online and on-site), guided tours for exhibitions and the media library, dance activities, video games, board games, Valentin and his associate, Borin Kor, still plan a detailed cultural program of exhibitions and events. Any artists interested in showcasing their work, are encouraged to contact them. The Hidden Gem The Media library of the French Institute is the biggest French library in all of South East Asia, with a collection of books and documents including French novels, international newspapers, children’s books, and resources for French learners. Cambodians can become registered members of the media library for a minimum of $10 a year. The subscription will allow access to books and resources that can be borrowed and taken home and automatic membership to Culturethèque, the Institute’s online library. “Books are a major part of the French cultural outreach”, Valentin stated. In collaboration with the NGO, SIPAR, they work to develop reading and fight against illiteracy. Their efforts have yielded 21 books and graphic novels which have been translated from French to Khmer. They also plan to initiate a residence program for Cambodian and French writers by the end of the year. The program, called the ‘Marguerite Duras Residence’ will focus on writers in children’s literature. Written by Sotheavy Nou

Khema is on the Go

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The Clothes Iron Flatiron Meridian Cambodia is a state-of-the-art, integrated development that incorporates prime office space, hospitality, and over 300 units of five-star, serviced residence. This new Phnom Penh landmark is inspired by the iconic Flatiron building located at 175 Fifth Avenue, in Manhattan, New York City. The original Flatiron was designed by Daniel Burnham and Frederick Dinkelberg; it was one of the tallest buildings in New York City upon its completion in1902. The NYC Flatiron building sits on a triangular block formed by Fifth Avenue, Broadway, and East 22nd Street. The name “Flatiron” derives from its resemblance to a cast-iron clothes iron. The Flatiron was designated a New York City landmark in 1966, added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1989. It is one of the most photographed, filmed, and recognizable buildings in the world today. The Flatiron Meridian, Phnom Penh, is a 41 storey building with a total gross floor area of about 84,000 sqm; featuring an ultra-modern, high tech design, beautiful landscaping, open living and community spaces, and a breathtaking sky balcony. This unique and stylish project is about to open, and offers a highly bespoke and contemporary living and working experience by combining the management and expertize of three specialist groups: The Ascott Group for property and office management, the Citidine Group for Residential and ‘Apart’otel’ management, and the Thalias Group for food and beverage operations. This allows for three of the leading companies in their field to bring their ‘best game’ to the property and deliver a truly exceptional experience for tenants, guests and the whole city. The Third Place Urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg was born in the United States of American in 1932, he is Professor Emeritus at the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at the University of West Florida in Pensacola. He received his B.S., Mankato State University, 1954; M.A. at the University of Minnesota in 1965; and his Ph.D. at the same University in 1968. He is known for coining the term the ‘Third Place’ and writing about the importance of public gathering spaces in community-building, and for a functioning civil society, democracy, and civic engagement. Our ‘first place’ is the home and our ‘second place’ is our workplace, (where people often spend most of their time). In either of these spaces we are concerned or preoccupied with family matters, chores, tasks, and matters relating to our loved ones or careers. Oldenberg saw these ‘third places’ -a café, a bakery, a wine bar or beer garden- as anchors of community life, where we facilitate and foster broader, more creative interactions. These are places where we relax in public and where we not only encounter familiar faces but where we also can make new ones from outside our circles. Oldenberg said that “third places offer a neutral public space for a community to connect and establish bonds. Third places “host the regular, voluntary, informal, and happily anticipated gatherings of individuals beyond the realms of home and work.” We may well recall great European films, where a minor character in an old black and white movie sits in the recesses of a French boulangerie, or Italian café and spouts philosophy to an intrigued ingénue. Third places like these are also important meeting points for ideas and conversations and in Cambodia especially, have become places where students can gather to study with friends or where young entrepreneurs can gather together to discuss, weigh up, and test concepts. Scholars determined that Oldenburg’s third place needed eight characteristics: Neutral ground Occupants of third places have little to no obligation to be there. They are not tied down to the area financially, politically, legally, or otherwise and are free to come and go as they please. A Leveler (a leveling place) Third places put no importance on an individual’s status in society. One’s socioeconomic status does not matter in a third place, allowing for a sense of commonality among its occupants. There are no prerequisites or requirements that would prevent acceptance or participation in the third place. Conversation is the main activity Playful and happy conversation is the main focus of activity in third places, although it is not required to be the only activity. The tone of the conversation is usually light-hearted and humorous; wit and good-natured playfulness are highly valued. Accessibility and accommodation Third places must be open and readily accessible to those who occupy them. They must also be accommodating, meaning they provide for the wants of their inhabitants, and all occupants feel their needs have been fulfilled. The regulars Third places harbor a number of regulars that help give the space its tone and help set the mood and characteristics of the area. Regulars to third places also attract newcomers and are there to help someone new to the space feel welcome and accommodated. A low profile Third places are characteristically wholesome. The inside of a third-place is without extravagance or grandiosity and has a homely feel. Third places are never snobby or pretentious, and are accepting of all types of individuals, from various different walks of life. The mood is playful The tone of conversation in third places is never marked with tension or hostility. Instead, third places have a playful nature, where witty conversation and frivolous banter are not only common but highly valued. A home away from home Occupants of third places will often have the same feelings of warmth, possession, and belonging as they would in their own homes. They feel a piece of themselves is rooted in the space, and gain spiritual regeneration by spending time there. Khema Go Is all about ready-to-go: fresh, quality ingredients, artisan bakery, gourmet sandwiches, handmade charcuterie, fresh salads, and creative, delicious pastries and desserts, all combined with cold-pressed juices, fine teas and house-roasted coffee. In the busy, fast-paced lives of professionals inside the offices of the Flatiron Meridian tower, or those people living in and enjoying the rapidly growing Srah Chak sangkat, … Read more

Cambodia Reopens Tourism for 2022

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A new initiative designed to revive Cambodia’s tourism industry, was officially launched virtually by the Ministry of Tourism on January 27. The “Cambodia: Safe and Green Tourism Destination” campaign came after much of the country’s tourism was suppressed due to Covid-19 restrictions and safety concerns. During the virtual launch, Minister of Tourism, Thong Khon, encouraged municipal and provincial administrations for creative ideas in attracting international visitors, including through ASEAN channels. Promoting that the country is open to fully-vaccinated visitors without being subjected to quarantine, he also advised that every business that caters to visitors in implementing safety measures and standard operating procedures on COVID-19 prevention. According to the Tourism Ministry, Cambodia attracted up to 6.61 million in international tourism in 2019 and generated a gross revenue of 4.92 billion USD. During the pandemic, the number of foreign visitors dropped down to 87 percent during the Jan.-Nov period in 2021, from the same period in 2020. The Ministry of Tourism reported that a total of 344,547 tourists — of which included 334,859 domestic visitors and 9,688 foreigners, travelled to the tourist destinations of Phnom Penh, Preah Sihanouk, Battambang, Kampot, Koh Kong, Pursat, Mondulkiri and Siem Reap during the first weekend of February. Currently, Cambodia has administered at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine to 14.35 million people, or 89.7 percent of its 16 million population, of which, 87 percent are fully vaccinated with two shots. The rate of vaccination will continue to increase as vaccinations become more available in the outer provinces. Siem Reap’s Rejuvenation and Demand for Green Space Already, several airlines have been increasing international flights. After a 11 month hiatus, the Siem Reap airport welcomed its first international travellers from Singapore Airlines on December 17, 2021. Craig Dodge, an advocate and director of sales and marketing of the popular Phare Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap and Steve Lidgey, who runs a small boutique travel agency called Travel Asia A La Carte, have been anticipating the return of international tourism. Both men were there to greet the first international travellers at their arrival at the airport. “It was a very emotional moment for both Siem Reap residents and also the visiting travellers when Singapore Airlines resumed their flights to Temple Town,” Lidgey explained. “A few tears of joy were shed at the thought of businesses resuming their livelihoods.” Lidgey noted with a bittersweet smile on how many tourists enjoyed seeing Angkor Wat without the heavy crowds that usually were there in previous years. “Prior to the pandemic, we saw healthy tourist numbers increasing year on year,” Lidgey noted. “However, just prior to covid, there was a drop in passengers from the western markets. This was due to a focus on the Chinese market — and photos of busy temples were a little off-putting for western travellers who wanted to avoid mass tourism.” Although the covid pandemic has been ravaging the tourism industry worldwide, Lidgey felt that Siem Reap has been hit especially hard due to the city’s heavy dependency on tourism. He added that Siem Reap businesses will still have difficulties resuming commerce after receiving little to no income for two years even after Cambodia has reopened itself to tourism. As Lidgey prepares himself to say goodbye to some wonderful businesses closing, he is still hopeful towards the new opportunities and revitalisation of Siem Reap. “Siem Reap does need to change from being so heavily focused on tourism — the pandemic has made that very clear,” Lidgey explained. “Phnom Penh has kept going, but time has stood still in Siem Reap. The government has plans to make Siem Reap into a ‘Smart City’ so that would be beneficial to all.” Over the past two years, Siem Reap has gone under major road construction in efforts to modernize the city and make travelling more convenient. Many local visitors from Phnom Penh or other regions in Cambodia, have enjoyed the changes to the city, especially the walking and bicycle paths that have been highlighted during events like the Angkor Marathon. “From personal experience of running a marathon(around the Angkor Temple Complex), I can really say the location is like no other — and a spectacular setting for a race,” Lidgey stated. Already there is a demand for pavement, cycle lanes, and greenery as the city grows. “It’s a great place for biking — there are bike guides and (more) infrastructure,” Dodge noted. Adding that he has noticed more cyclists and biking trails have been increasing around the temple complex as well as camping sites around Banteay Srey and Kulen Mountain. Lidgey himself stumbled across new developments on the foothills of Kulen Mountain as he rode his bike through cassava, rubber, and cashew plantations. This is why Lidgey would like to encourage the local government to promote the local traditions and the exploration of the natural beauty of the rural areas in other parts of the province. In addition to the Cambodian New Year, which has garnered many visitors to Siem Reap in the past, other events such as the kite festival in the Banteay Srei district and a local fair in Preah Dak, as well as the much anticipated The Angkor Wildlife & Aquarium, are what Lidgey would like to see become part the attractions for domestic and international tourists. Written by Sotheavy Nou

Sosoro Museum

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Sosoro Museum Introduces Cambodia’s Monetary History Through Oldest Coin Nestled in the heart of the city, near the night market and the heritage block, is the SOSORO Museum. A historic building which housed the former town hall residence in 1908 and the Phnom Penh municipality in 1920, and has been the museum of Economy and Money PREAH SREY IÇANAVARMAN since 2012. “The Museum is unlike any other in Cambodia,” Blaise Kilian stated. As the Co-Director of the Sosoro Museum, Kilian is excited to finally see the venue open and it has already been attracting attention from many local students and families. Although the museum was officially open in April 2019, the venue hasn’t been fully available until November 2021 due to restrictions placed from the pandemic. “We receive a lot of young Cambodians, mostly students and young professionals who walk in spontaneously,” Kilian stated. “We have also started to organize school trips – although not all schools are ready yet after the long months of Covid induced restrictions – and corporate tours whereby companies bring their employees to visit. We are also looking forward to welcoming international tourists as Cambodia reopens to international travel and we have already started to work with international tours in this regard.” Kilian explained how there was a huge effort to contextualise the exhibited artifacts so that the visitors can rely on a narrative throughout the 12 modules of the exhibition that span over two floors. ”The Museum offers an overview of 2,000 years of Cambodia’s history through the economic and monetary angle”, Kilian stated. “It is therefore a useful addition to existing museums that are usually focused on archaeology or on specific aspects of Cambodia’s history (mostly Angkor and the Khmer Rouge period). It also plays a major role in raising awareness about the close interaction between society, politics and economics throughout history. Everyone who is interested in Cambodia will enjoy visiting the Museum as it allows one to travel through the various periods of its history. The Museum is very modern and interactive with state-of-the-art museography.” Some of the museum’s most alluring attractions are the oldest medal coin issued by a Khmer King in the 7th century and a giant digital screen where visitors can inspect and discover the detailed markings of security displayed on modern banknotes. An interesting fact that Kilian discovered through the exhibitions, is the evidence of no monetary system used during the Angkor empire. The oldest evidence of currency used in Cambodia, is the silver coin with an etching of a rising sun. Although the coin originated from ancient Myanmar, this coin was widely circulated in the 5th-8th centuries in parts of Southeast-Asia, including in the pre-angkorian kingdom of Funan that was a popular pitstop on trade routes between China and India. The “Rising Sun Coin” is also the inspiration for the museum’s logo of SOSORO. Part of the museum’s namesake came from King Içanavarman, who ruled in the early 7th century over Chenla, the sovereignty that succeeded Funan. Although credited for creating the first gold coin, it was most likely that the coin was used as tokens of honor, rather than currency. The illustrations etched on the coin had Hindu religious references and the names of the King and of his capital city, Içanapura, the city of modern day Sambor Prei Kuk, which became part of UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014. The museum is divided into twelve different modules in which visitors can discover the country’s economic and monetary development focusing on the strong interaction between money, credit, growth, and inflation, over the 2,000 years of Cambodia’s monetary history. What makes the museum unique is the role it plays for Cambodia’s future, Kilian noted. “The Museum was established by the National Bank of Cambodia and is directly attached to the Cabinet of the National Bank. There is a vision from the National Bank to promote awareness and education about the role of the economy and money ー generally to share aspects of the country’s history that are often overlooked with the general public. Many exhibited artifacts come from the archaeological excavations, while others have been acquired or donated. Most of the contents have been put together by economist and National Bank Advisor Jean-Daniel Gardère who has worked closely with historians and numerous national and international experts.” The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday and closed only on Mondays and public holidays. There is a new library, a mini souvenir shop, a lovely garden, and a little cafe decorated with artwork of currency. Ticket prices are 4,000 riels for Cambodian nationals, 20,000 riels for foreigners and 2,000 riels for kids and students of any nationality. Visitors can walk in or book for groups with options for guides. Audio guides can be rented for an additional 12,000 riels. Written by Sotheavy Nou

Love is in the air!

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While we acknowledge that cooking for your loved one can be a most romantic and wholesome event, we at Thalias also realise that there is a real appeal to leaving your cares behind and spending a Valentine’s Dinner catered to and pampered this February 14. Don’t worry about the overcooked steak or the wine pairing, we have that all covered for you! Discover below the delicious menus we have crafted to help you and your significant other celebrate your adoration. Spend an elegant evening with your beloved at Topaz. Intimately lit by candlelight, let our staff cater to your needs while you focus on letting the love flow. Our lavish seven-course set is made to delight your senses with delicate flavours from the land and sea. For a heightened sensory experience, the Topaz team has also spent time selecting a range of wines that we feel perfectly match the flavours of each course. Our Valentine’s Day menu will be available on the evening of Monday 14 February. Your chance to savour this refined 7-course menu is $240 net per couple or $160 net with wine pairing per person. See our full menu here and make sure to book your table now. Please call: 015 821 888, or book via https://topaz-restaurant.com/reservation Spoil your loved one this Valentine’s day with a romantic dinner for two at Khéma. With your hearts in mind, Khéma’s chefs have created a sensuous menu of smooth, rich, sweet, and creamy flavours that will leave you swooning this Valentine’s Day. Getting off to an electrifying start with a Lobster salad, the menu then lowers the volume with a Beef broth with foie gras Royale, followed by sweet, luscious Slow-Cooked Lamb Chops and rounded off with a magnificent Chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis centre. Discover our full menu and book your table now for Monday 14 February on https://www.khema-restaurant.com/reservations This Valentine’s Day, we’ve created a vibrant, luxurious menu full of colour and zest and featuring some of Cambodia’s most delicious flavours. If beautiful food is the key to gaining and holding a lover’s heart, then it’s time to book your enchanting Valentine’s Day dinner at Malis right now. Reservations strongly recommended https://malis-restaurant.com/reservation Details and menu here.

Chocolates and Macarons

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The Confectionaries of Love As Valentine’s Day approaches, all one can think of is the chocolates and heart shaped treats for loved ones. Alongside flowers and jewellery, chocolate has become a standard gift to show love, but how did this semi-sweet treat achieve its iconic role? The history of chocolate can be traced back to the ancient Mayans and even earlier to the early Olmecs of southern Mexico. Although the original versions of brewed chocolate drinks were concoated from cocoa beans around 500 BCE — many centuries before the first Valentine’s day; this drink played an important role in Mayan rituals, such as weddings, in which the bride and groom would exchange sips of the beverage during the ceremony. The Aztecs also revered chocolate, associating cacao to their gods. Like the Mayans, they enjoyed drinking chocolate, but they also used cacao beans as currency and can be considered to be more valuable than gold. One of the most notorious Aztec names associated with chocolate was an Aztec ruler, Montezuma II. He was rumoured to have drunk gallons of chocolate each day because he believed it gave him energy and can act as an aphrodisiac. Natural chemicals like tryptophan and phenylethylamine, which can release endorphins triggering feelings of love and desire, are found in chocolate. Although scientists say there isn’t enough of either substance to make chocolate a strong aphrodisiac, the act of giving and eating chocolate can also release Endorphins and Oxytocin in your brain, a chemical which gives pleasure. The Rise of the Macaron One treat that is gunning for chocolate’s symbolic role in the language of love, is the chewy, delicate, and versatile — macarons. The popularity of macarons have increased over the years as it becomes more readily available across the world. Macarons today can be found in many flavours and fillings, appealing to a wider audience outside of Europe. Macarons are considered to be of Italian origin, dating back to the 8th Century. The delicacy was thought to be introduced to France in 1533 by Queen Catherine de’ Medici of Italy. Legend has it that her pastry chefs brought the early forms of the macaron recipe with them when she married King Henry II of France. However, it was the French who made the macaroon truly distinguished as a culinary delight. In spite of the simple ingredients in the recipe, macarons are very hard to perfect, challenging even the most reputable bakers in their skills and technique. Not to be confused with the coconut cousin with a similar namesake of ‘macaroon’, the French macaron is a sweet meringue-based treat made with egg white, icing sugar, granulated sugar, almond meal, and food coloring. Good macarons have a light, airy bite to them that can really bring a feeling of romance to the moment. When you give you significant other macarons for Valentine’s Day, this automatically sends a message that lets them know that you care Romancing the Chef Pastry Chef, Panha Rith Hak has perfected his culinary skills in making beautiful delicacies for the French café-restaurant and gourmet delicatessen, Khema, since 2013. Clad in a pristine white chef’s uniform, Hak beamed with pride as he gazed over an array of heart shaped chocolates and macarons he was preparing for the Valentine’s Day holiday. In his 30 years of life in Phnom Penh, Hak has garnered a reputation as a reliable leader and a technical confectionary chef in Cambodia. He started his career in the food and beverage business in 2013 as a baker’s assistant at the fine dining restaurant, Topaz. Cultivating a name as a chef, he was promoted to a Chef de partie (CDP), also known as a “station chef” or “line cook”, and managed the whole bakery and pastry division at Khema Siem Reap. After 2 years in Siem Reap, he returned to Phnom Penh to further expand his role under the same position over the flagship venue at Khema Pasteur. After 8 years under Khema, Hak is now their main sous chef in desserts. Hak explained how much of the cocoa beans he uses originated from South America. “Now, for cocoa, we have around 50 countries including from southern Asia,” Hak stated. Adding that this year, the Valentine’s Day menu will include chocolate tablets alongside many other bonbon chocolates. ‘Bon’, meaning ‘good’ in the French language, is a round shaped piece of chocolate filled with fruit, ganache, caramel, nuts or nougat in the center. Each piece is decorated with stencilled art or dusted with cocoa powder for a polished look. “The white chocolate ones have 30% cocoa,” Hak explained as he gently tapped a frozen mould, revealing small white bonbons with tiny hearts. “There are around 10 types(of chocolate bonbons). We do 3 to 4 types every 2 days, about 100 to 150 pieces.” The process he uses makes the chocolate shiny and is popular with customers who want to decorate on top of other desserts. Hak expects the newest addition of chocolate tablets to become a popular item for the romantic holiday. The tablets he made are slabs of pre-cut chocolate bars mixed with nuts, in the rich colors of blue, pink, and dark brown. Macarons are also a fun symbol of love, Hak noted. “Macarons are made from egg whites and sugar or a meringue base, and mixed with almond powder,” he explained. “What makes a macaron special is the crispy surface and soft filling inside.” When ordering a macaron, Hak recommends his favorite flavor, vanilla because of the excellent quality of vanilla beans they use in their kitchens. So, keep an eye out for these delicate and rich edible treats of love. Written by Sotheavy Nou

Tables of Two

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“So short our lives, so hard the lessons, _ so difficult the tests, so sudden the final victory, _ so tenuous the hope of joy that so easily evaporates into fear _ – this is what I mean by Love……._ For this was on Saint Valentine’s Day When every bird comes there to choose his match Of every kind that men may think of And that so huge a noise they began to make That earth and air and tree and every lake Was so full, that not easily was there space For me to stand—so full was all the place.” Chaucer 1382 Of Birds Geoffrey Chaucer (1340s – 1400) was an English poet and author, he is widely considered to be the greatest English poet of the Middle Ages; His most famous work, The Canterbury Tales. Called the “father of English literature” he was the first writer to be buried in what has since come to be called Poets’ Corner, in Westminster Abbey. This section of the South Transept of Westminster Abbey now contains the remains or memorials to some of the greatest writers and poets in British history including Shakespeare, Dickens, C. S. Lewis, Thomas Hardy, Rudyard Kipling, Alfred Tennyson, W. H. Auden, Jane Austen, William Blake, the three Bronte sisters, Robert Burns, Benjamin Disraeli, Oscar Wilde, William Wordsworth, Keats, Byron, Eliot and many, many more. Chaucer also gained fame as a philosopher and astronomer, composing the scientific “A Treatise on the Astrolabe” for his 10-year-old son Lewis. He maintained a career in the civil service as a bureaucrat, courtier, diplomat, and member of parliament, which is why, above many of his contemporaries, we know so much about him today. What Chaucer is far less famous for, is writing what is believed to be one of the first, and perhaps the first, reference to St. Valentine’s Day as being a special day for lovers: which he did in his 699-line poem ‘The Parliament of Fowls’, in 1382. Before this time, the day was known as ‘The Feast of Saint Valentine’ having been established by Pope Gelasius I in AD 496 to be celebrated in honour of Saint Valentine of Rome, who died on the 14th of February, in AD 269. Early folk traditions connected to St. Valentine’s Day were built up around its connection to the onset of Spring. In Slovenia, Saint Valentine was one of the saints of spring, the saint of good health, and the patron of beekeepers and pilgrims and it was celebrated as the day when the first work in the vineyards and in the fields commenced after winter. It has also become a folk tale that birds proposed to each other or married on the 14th of February. Chaucer’s poem is that of a dream about a parliament for birds, coming together to choose their mates. It was said to have been written to honour the first anniversary of the engagement between fifteen-year-old King Richard II of England and fifteen-year-old Anne of Bohemia, which took place after five years of negotiating the marriage contract. Whilst Chaucer writes about the natural love and love’s true nature, even writing of the female’s right to not only choose her partner but to express her desire to wait another year, in a time when courtly marriage was usually arranged. Yet there is no record of the traditions of love being associated with St. Valentine’s Day before his poem. There are, however, several poems describing birds mating on this day that soon followed. The Tower The earliest description of February 14 as an annual celebration of love appears in the Charter of the Court of Love. The charter, allegedly issued by Charles VI of France at Mantes-la-Jolie in 1400, describes lavish festivities to be attended by several members of the royal court, including a feast, amorous song, and poetry competitions, jousting, and dancing. Amid these festivities, the attending ladies would hear and rule on disputes from lovers. The history of sending Valentine’s Day letters or cards to the objects of one’s affection is vague at best, believed to have started in the UK and spread throughout Europe. The oldest known Valentine’s Day letter was written by Charles, the Duke of Orleans to his wife Bonne in 1415. The Duke was just 21 years old and the letter was written from his prison in the Tower of London, after his capture at the Battle of Agincourt who was fifteen or sixteen at the time. As was the custom at the time for most royals, marriage was a matter of state and arranged with all the maneuvers and diplomacy of an international peace treaty. This was the boy’s second marriage, having at age 12, been married off to his 17-year-old cousin Isabella of Valois, daughter of King Charles VI, herself already a widow after being first married at age six. Charles’s young marriage to Isabella ended when she died giving birth in 1409. The following year, Charles wed in yet another political alliance; to 11-year-old Bonne of Armagnac, daughter of Bernard VII, Count of Armagnac. In the letter, Charles refers to his wife as his Valentine but given the circumstances, it makes for grim reading: My very gentle Valentine, Since for me, you were born too soon, And I for you was born too late. God forgives him who has estranged Me from you for the whole year. I am already sick of love, My very gentle Valentine. Charles would end up being imprisoned for 25 years and never saw his valentine again, nor did they have any children; Bonne died sometime between 1430 and 1435, whilst he was still locked up in the tower. When Charles did eventually return to France he wed once again at the age of 46 to Mary of Cleves, aged 14. They had three children and he died in 1465. Charles wrote hundreds of poems whilst in prison; many of them about love and nobility. Understandably, the longer he was held captive, the … Read more

L’Art sur la Table : part 1

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The Ancien Regime French cuisine has been regarded for its unique qualities and flavours since the earliest days of the Ancien Regime, with the written works of celebrated chefs as far back as Guillaume ‘Taillevent’ Tirel, (Le Viandier, 13th century) through to the 17th-century works of chefs such as François Pierre de la Varenne, (Le Cuisinier François, 1651) and François Massialot, (Le Cuisinier Roïal et Bourgeois, 1691). The latter being at a time when we start to see French cuisine really emerge, abandoning middle eastern spices and Italian sauces to define itself with local ingredients, fresh herbs, and new, lighter sauces that incorporate more local, regional, and decidedly more French ingredients, techniques, and flavours. Paris was the epicenter of culture and the economy and the most highly skilled craftsmen were to be found there, including those of the culinary trades. The very finest were regulated by the guild system, which themselves were regulated by the city government as well as the French crown. A guild restricted those in any given branch of the culinary industry to operate only within that area and to ‘stay in their lane’ as it were. There were two main groups of guilds: one that supplied the raw ingredients such as butchers, fishmongers, grain merchants, and gardeners; whilst the second group supplied prepared food: bakers, pastry cooks, sauce makers, poulterers, and caterers, etc. There were, however, also guilds that offered both raw materials and prepared food. Two such guilds were the charcutiers and rôtisseurs, who would supply cooked pies and other dishes, whilst also supplying raw meat and poultry; much to the annoyance of the butchers and poulterers. The guilds served as training grounds and the accredited titles of cook, chef, and master chef were conferred. Those who reached the level of a master chef were of considerable rank and often some degree of fame and were able to enjoy a high level of income. “Those who have not lived in the eighteenth century, before the Revolution, do not know the sweetness of living” Talleyrand Service en Confusion Writer and food historian Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, in her magnificent tome, ‘Savoring the past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789’, (first published in 1996) notes the following: In French medieval cuisine, banquets were common among the aristocracy. Multiple courses would be prepared and then served all at once, this was known as ‘service en confusion’. The sauces were highly seasoned, with thick, heavily flavored mustards used. Pies were the crust more as a container than a part of the dish itself. Ingredients were highly seasonal and preserved items were common, especially in winter. Meats were salted or smoked, whilst spices, salt (and brine) were used to preserve greens, whilst root vegetables were preserved in honey. Pigeon and squab were delicacies and game such as venison, boar, hare, rabbit, and fowl were considered luxuries. Kitchen gardens provided herbs, many of which are rarely seen and never used today. Vinegar and Verjus were used in preparing sauces as were sugars, (for the very rich) and honey. For the most aristocratic of banquets, presentation was very important and food colours would be extracted from natural ingredients and used to create bright and unusual displays whilst gold and silver leaf would be applied with egg whites. “One of the grandest showpieces of the time was roast swan or peacock sewn back into its skin with feathers intact, the feet and beak being gilded. Since both birds are stringy, and taste unpleasant, the skin and feathers could be kept and filled with the cooked, minced and seasoned flesh of tastier birds, like goose or chicken.” The most celebrated French chef of the Middle Ages was known as Taillevent, who began his career as a ‘kitchen boy’ in 1326. He rose to the position of chef to the Dauphin, son of John II and when the Dauphin became King Charles the V of France in 1364, Taillevent was his chief chef. Taillevent worked in numerous royal kitchens during the 14th century. His first position was as a kitchen boy in 1326. He was chef to Philip VI, then the Dauphin who was the son of John II. The Dauphin became King Charles V of France in 1364, with Taillevent as his chief cook. His career spanned sixty-six years, and his tombstone represents him holding a shield with three marmites, (cooking pots) on it. When Catherine de Medici came to France in the 1540s, many culinary influences from her native Italy became incorporated into French cuisine. During her reign as Queen and then Queen Mother of France (three of her sons became King of France), the dinners she hosted were legendary and helped move French cuisine forward in history. Fine tableware and glassware became important features of dining as did the use of color. The Age of Catherine de Medici, saw the incorporation of new produce into French culinaria, both from the Mediterranean and for the first time the New World. Louis XIV French food came into its own as a definable and desirable cuisine in the 17th century, in great part because of Louis XIV’s majestic charisma and the glamour and opulence of Versailles. Now the French were eating with forks as utensils and during this “siècle des Lumières” (the Enlightenment) cuisine became a subject of intellectual debate and informed writing within France: ‘food was now being described as an art form and discussed in terms of harmony, chemistry, and spirituality’. La Varenne François Pierre de la Varenne was a Burgundian and the foremost member of a group of French chefs who codified French cuisine in the age of King Louis XIV. The others were Nicolas Bonnefon, Le Jardinier François, and François Massialot. The seventeenth century saw a culinary transformation take place in France which carried its gastronomy into the modern era. The heavy use of imported and expensive spices was replaced in favour of natural flavours and locally foraged or farmed ingredients. Middle Eastern spices such as saffron, cinnamon, … Read more

Le Réveillon de Noël

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In France, the main Christmas meal is a gracious and arranged affair held on Christmas Eve. The meal is a splendid feast of the finest foods accompanied by great wines and will stretch on until after midnight. According to the French Ministry of Europe and Foreign Affairs: Many of today’s Christmas traditions originated in the Middle East and were introduced to France by the Romans. Reims was the site of the first French Christmas celebration when (in 508) Clovis and his 3,000 warriors were baptized on Christmas Day. Charlemagne received the crown from the hands of Pope Leo III on Christmas Day in 800. In 1100, Godefroy de Bouillon’s successor, his brother Baudouin, was crowned in the basilica of Saint Mary of Bethlehem. Later, King Jean-le-Bon founded the Order of the Star in honor of the manger; it remained in existence until 1352. In 1389, French crowds shouted Noël! Noël! in welcoming Queen Isabeau of Bavaria to the capital. Thus Christmas gradually became both a religious and secular celebration. Christmas in France is a family holiday, a religious celebration, and an occasion for merry-making. The first tree in France was said to have been presented as ‘the holy tree of Christmas’ in the city of Strasbourg in 1605. It was decorated with artificial colored roses, apples, sugar, and painted hosts, and symbolized the apple tree in the garden of Eden. Another custom is that of the nativity scene and the manger, (la crèche) which are believed to have originated in the 12th century, in the form of liturgical drama. The popular manger was introduced in Avignon by Saint Francis of Assisi between 1316 and 1334, and after the revolution, it was popular to display a crèche or ‘nativity’ in homes for Christmas. Christmas fairs are a popular and colorful tradition in France and the most famous Christmas market in Europe is held annually in Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, and dates back to 1570. For five weeks this historic city on the border of France and Germany becomes the “Christmas capital of Europe” and turns into one giant magical decoration. The history of the Fair actually began in the 14th century when it was called St. Nicholas Fair. In 1570, under pressure from the Reformation, the name of the Catholic saint was replaced with the name of the Christ child. Since then, the Fair has been called Christkindelsmärik. The twelve squares of Strasbourg host hundreds of festively decorated wooden chalets. Souvenirs and local delicacies, Christmas decorations, handicrafts, and other festive utensils are all sold here and it is a wonderful opportunity to taste traditional Alsatian cuisine, much of it cooked right there in the streets. Twelve Christmas markets are open all across the city: Christkindelsmärik itself on Broglie Square and other Christmas markets on the Cathedral, Castle, and Crow squares. The Gutenberg Square hosts a Swiss village; the Station Square is an arts and crafts market. All the streets hold small themed artisanal fairs. The Kleber square is very festive thanks to its elegantly decorated fir tree brought straight from the mountains. Every year a particular country is invited to be an honorary guest at the Strasbourg Fair. Craftsmen, chefs, and winemakers thus introduce the visitors to the customs of their country. A special cultural program includes film projections, dancing, and folk music performances. Before the 18th century, le réveillon de Noël was divided into two meals: people ate a light supper before midnight Christmas Mass, and then indulged in a “fat” supper at 3 am that would last for hours. Réveillon, as the name suggests is a decadent affair, and the finest dishes and wines will be served: after an aperitivo of Champagne friends and family will enjoy oysters, smoked salmon, lobster, foie gras, and possibly caviar all accompanied by an appropriate white wine, perhaps a Chablis Grand Cru. For soup, there’s velouté de châtaignes, a creamy chestnut soup made with winter vegetables, whose name means “velvet.” This will be followed by the traditional Christmas Turkey, with chestnuts and a superb stuffing and a cured, Christmas ham may also be served. Of course, there will be a glorious selection of cheese and the option of salads. It’s not a true Réveillon without a visually stunning and delicious Yule log and Marrons glacés, (candied chestnuts), macarons, Pain d’épices, or gingerbread may also find its way onto the table.