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To Bon Appétit or not to Bon Appétit

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The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking During its fifth session, (5.COM) held on the 19th of November 2010, the Intergovernmental Committee, for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage elected to put French Gastronomic Meals on the Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Inscribed in 2010 (5.COM) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: ‘The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an aperitif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties.’ It should be obvious to anyone that the French take their food and dining very seriously and there are a number of traditions and customs that accompany it. Various culinary travel sites list scores of rules to follow in order not to let you make a faux pax at table. The website snippetsofparis.com lists 32 dos and don’ts of French dinning etiquette yet whilst traditional French eating customs are characterized by punctuality, they are also about taking the time to enjoy one’s food and one’s family. For most of us, the most common phrase for announcing the commencement of a French meal is to hear the host offer the welcome phrase, “Bon appétit”, which is usually loosely translated to English as, ‘enjoy your meal’ but others suggest the more literal translation of, ‘good appetite’. However, according to Myaka Meier of the Beaumont Etiquette finishing school, the phrase is not only impolite, guests will quite possibly find it offensive! Founded in London, Beaumont Etiquette now has offices in New York and California and offers courses in British, Continental European and American etiquette. Apparently, according to Meier the phrase is akin to saying something along the lines of, “good digestion,” and this would be highly improper given its connected reference to bowel movement. According to a Maia de la Baume, writing for the New York Times from Paris: “In France, ‘Bon appétit’ is not proper,” quoting Marie de Tilly, right, who teaches etiquette there. “When people use it, it sounds just like an invitation for a good digestion and suggests that you are so hungry that you may jump on any food that would cross your mouth.” However, I will leave it to Frenchwoman Géraldine Lepère, and her very entertaining language website, Comme Une Française who says: “You might find, here and there, contrarian urban legends saying that “Bon appétit” is actually impolite — that it hints at bodily functions that come with eating, and would be considered rude or in bad taste… Well, it’s false! Please, keep saying Bon appétit at the beginning of a meal – it’s the signal that the meal can start, that you’re all ready to eat. You can also say it to people who are already eating. For instance, if you’re hiking in the French mountains and you come across a couple of other hikers sitting down for their picnic, you can tell them Bon appétit as a greeting, while you’re walking by. If someone tells you Bon appétit, you can answer Merci (= thank you) if they’re not eating as well (if they’re a waiter, for instance). If they are eating at the same time, you only need to wish them the same: Bon appétit”. Written by Darren Gall

The “University of Malis”, a Rich Learning Ground for our Team

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SIN Vannay joined the Malis Siem Reap team four years ago as a restaurant supervisor, and continues to grow and flourish there, learning and doing more than ever before, while also setting a positive example for her young daughters. Vannay grew up at Roluos near Bakong temple, one of the earliest monuments of the Khmer Empire, just 15 miles away from Siem Reap. There, she grew up alongside her younger brothers and sisters while her parents grew and sold sugar cane juice. Vannay often accompanied her mother on the side of the roads leading towards the temple as she sold the sweet juice to passersby. At six years of age, she joined the local primary school before continuing her high-school education at Wat Svay in Siem Reap. Because of the distance and condition of the roads, she could only return home on the weekends. And while she has huge ambitions that her own two daughters, aged 13 and 15, might be able to go on to university, that option was not open to her. Vannay left school at 15, and went straight to work at a local hotel. Over the years, she worked with a number of establishments with excellent reputations before finally coming to join us at Malis where she hopes to continue, and continue growing. “When I started here, I had only done operations work before, but now I am doing so much more and with a much bigger team to supervise than I have ever worked with before too, so I am enjoying it very much. Sometimes I worry that I don’t know how to do what I need to learn, but I always try my best, and I enjoy learning so much,” she says. In that respect, she has found her experience at Malis to be hugely enriching. “Other companies don’t really care about you learning and growing. They just want you to stay at the same level, and never give any time or encouragement for anything else. But here, we are all pushed to learn as much as we can, and it is very good. And it goes beyond what we learn for ourselves. I had never worked in a place before where as soon as someone learns something new, they share it with everyone else, but that is what happens here because the culture of learning is so strong that we all want everyone to participate in it as much as the company does”. One of Vannay’s current challenges is getting to grips with computers and with email communications with local tour operators and hotels etc, for bookings for the restaurant. “I had never worked with computers before, so it was all new,” she says, somewhat wide-eyed even thinking about it. But it’s clear that she is relishing the opportunity to learn and do and be more than before, not only out of a strong sense of duty, curiosity and professionalism but also, it seems clear, because this is how she can set an example to her daughters. “I want them to go to university, but I also need them to learn how to make money before they go,” she says. “It is very hard to find money! And Covid has taught us all how difficult things can get and that we cannot see the future. So I am encouraging them to find ways to earn their living, and to find skills so they can support themselves. I can teach them how to manage money, but they have to make it first”. For now, she hopes to move up the rankings at Malis, and knows she still has plenty more to learn along the way. “I will learn more and more every day, it makes me very happy”. Written by Nicky Sullivan

Kampong Speu: Palm Sugar and a Cambodian Tradition

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Palm sugar has a strong bond with Cambodia and is the livelihood of farmers in Kampong Speu while showing its economic potential in the international market. Despite this significance, the issues of labor shortages and land development could lead to its disappearance. Kampong Speu is famous for many things, such as ecotourism destinations, the tallest mountain in Cambodia, and the palm trees that decorate the rice fields along the roads of the province. Bordering Kampot, Kandal, Takeo, Koh Kong, and Kampong Chhnang, one third of Cambodia’s 3 million palmyra trees grow in Kampong Speu. Palm trees are very important in the daily life of the Cambodian people, especially in rural areas. Palm leaves can be used for roofing, hats, mats, baskets, and the trunks can be processed into boats, furniture, souvenirs, and houses. The palmyra fruit can be used in desserts and dishes like palm cakes and the flowers can be used to make sweet palm juice and even produce alcoholic drinks. You can also use palm juice to produce palm sugar, and in 2019, these palms were registered with the EU Geographical Indications system that “protects the names of products that originate from specific regions and have specific qualities or enjoy a reputation linked to the production territory.” The GI recognition protects the consumer and distinguishes quality products while also helping producers to better market their products. Food Culture and Palm Sugar With a delicious sweet taste different from cane sugar and color and texture that varies depending on its intended use, palm sugar is popular in the kitchen of the Khmer people, especially in rural areas. The popular dessert that I want to introduce here is the Glutinous Rice Balls Dessert (នំផ្លែអាយ), which is a famous dessert amongst Cambodian people. The Glutinous Rice Balls Dessert (នំផ្លែអាយ) is usually made with three ingredients: glutinous rice flour, palm sugar, and coconut. The method of making these cakes is very simple despite their delicious, sweet taste. First, we have to mix the glutinous rice flour with warm water, then flatten it, add the palm sugar, and pack it tightly. Next, we put the sugar-packed balls in boiling water until they float, put them in cold water and strain them on a plate, sprinkle them with coconut meat, and they are ready-to-eat. Taking Kampong Speu’s palm sugar to another level through organization As a reporter trainee at Focus: Ready for Tomorrow I was excited to do a story about Kampong Speu’s palm sugar for Cambodian Eats! in which I would go to witness the farmer’s lives and see the process of palm sugar production with my own eyes. Unfortunately, the third community outbreak of Covid-19 was widespread, and we were discouraged from visiting. However, to learn more about the significance of palm sugar in Cambodia, I contacted Mr. Sam Saroeun, the President of the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar Promotion Association, by phone. Established in 2009, the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar Promotion Association’s main aim is to protect and promote Kampong Speu palm sugar and acts as a non-profit, inter-professional association, overseeing the product quality assurance and connecting producers and trading members. The production members of this association are 150 families in the Oudong and Samrong Tong districts of Kampong Speu province and Ang Snoul district in Kandal province. Around 10 companies are the trading members of the communities that supply sugar for both domestic and export markets. Palm sugar and traditional livelihoods Mr. Sam Saroeun explained that what makes Kampong Speu palm sugar unique is the geography of the province, which is a lowland area with moderate rainfall and favorable soil for palm trees. According to Saroeun, the greater the yearly drought, the more delicious the palm sugar. With the harvest season in Kampong Speu usually lasting 6 months, from December to May, Saroeun said that palm sugar production depends on nature, making it difficult to estimate and guarantee specific yields. In 2021, the association could only supply approximately 150 tons of palm sugar due to the weather and labor shortages from the pandemic, but the demand was much greater, according to Saroeun. Usually, a family business that starts with getting the juice from the tree and finishes with the stirring process that produces palm sugar, association members are required to have at least 15 palm trees to produce palm sugar. Some farmers own their palm trees, while others rent palm trees to produce sugar. Living in Kampong Speu’s Oudong district, like other palm sugar producers, Mr. Sang Pang also farms the land and has only three or four palm trees. However, he rents more than 30 palm trees to make sugar and in exchange gives 5 kg of palm sugar per year to the palm tree’s owner. “(It is) more profitable, that’s why I work hard. Just try hard, we get a lot [of sugar] and [are] not so tired,” Pang said. While palm sugar in this area has long provided a source of income to locals, Saroeun’s association has improved the lives of farmers by providing the structure that ensures quality and fair pricing. “Before they joined the association, they had faced a lot of problems in palm sugar making because sugar was expensive only during the beginning of the season,” Saroeun said. “The Kampong Sugar Sugar Association does not do that….The price is negotiated from the start until the end of one season. Next year, we will negotiate (price) again.” Currently, farmers can sell Kampong Speu palm sugar for 6,800 KHR (1.67USD) per kilogram, a much better price than non-association farmers can get. Bitter Challenges Although palm sugar prices have risen and stabilized, labor and producer shortages – especially among the next generation of Cambodians – pose a threat to this traditional industry. “Right now, only 20 percent of those who produce the sugar are in their 30s, but 70 to 80 percent are in their 40s and 50s,” Saroeun said. “Young people, if they have the strength…they go to work as labor workers instead.” Saroeun said that … Read more

Il Mangera le Riche – Révolution and Food

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Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity Voltaire Fête Nationale Française, (known as Bastille Day) is France’s ‘National Day’, the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789, which was a major event in the French Revolution. The occasion was first celebrated as the Fête de la Fédération, (Unity of the French People) and was held on 14th of July 1790, it was attended by over a quarter of a million Parisians, and the feasting went on for four whole days. The French Revolution completely changed the social and political structure of France. It put an end to the monarchy, to feudalism, and it took political power away from the Catholic church. It brought new ideas to the people of Europe including liberty and freedom for the common person. It abolished slavery and recognized the rights of women. Whilst the revolution ended with the rise of Napoleon, the ideas and reforms that it gave rise to continue to influence governments right up to this very day. The Stain of Voltaire’s Ink François-Marie Arouet (1694-1778), known as Voltaire, was a writer, philosopher, poet, dramatist, historian and polemicist of the French Enlightenment. He is regarded as one of the key agitators for change that fomented unrest against the ruling classes. Voltaire had believed that through sound thought and good reason man separated himself from all other living creatures and he held in great disdain matters of faith and the corruption of power from the ruling classes. He used his pen as an epee and he wielded it with all the precision of a master swordsman in a fencing match or, as a surgeon with a lancet, performing open heart surgery. His reasoning was his artillery; his wit, his bon mots and his put downs were legendary, often humorous, he dissected his opposition, taunted them, toyed with them. Voltaire’s particular cruelty was not to merely turn the tide of popular opinion against his opponents but, to have the people laugh at them with disdain, to humiliate them and in doing so, annihilate them. He once wrote that to hold a pen was to be at war. Few targets could ever remove the stain of Voltaire’s ink. Voltaire was not a man of mercy, yet some would say that Voltaire had good reason to terrorize the ruling classes of France in the early 1700’s. Born into a middle class family of little importance and a young writer struggling to make his name as a man of letters, Francois Marie Arouet as he was then known was beginning to gain a reputation as a bit of an upstart; a petty pot-stirrer amongst a court society used to considering it their privilege to do and get away with whatever they damn well pleased. The young Arouet was an idealist who believed that rulers should be enlightened souls who protected the people’s rights and when he saw injustice he lashed out; his pen was indeed very sharp, soon he began to deeply offend and to gather serious enemies. Voltaire was actually jailed for many a short spell in the Bastille for offending the nobility, the final straw came after he had traded insults with the aristocratic Guy Auguste de Rohan-Chabot known as the chevalier de Rohan and the comte de Chabot. The Chevalier organized for Voltaire to be beaten in the street like a peasant whilst he watched from the comfort of his carriage, leaving the young writer busted up and bleeding in the gutter. Voltaire was said to be incandescent with rage and began to prepare for a duel to the death, the Rohan family meanwhile, obtained a ‘lettre de cachet’ from King Louis XV and used this warrant to force Voltaire back into the Bastille and then into exile in Great Britain. Francois Marie Arouet would relish his time in England and appreciate the philosophical and scientific breakthroughs taking place during this pre-industrial revolution period, a time of philosophical and scientific enlightenment in England. He returned to France, changed his name to Voltaire, still angry, still an agitator, but now very much an enlightened one, few would ever again attempt to humiliate him. Voltaire would spend three years in exile before returning to Paris, he then made a series of very sound business partnerships that would ultimately see him gain serious wealth. In 1733 he met and fell deeply in love with Emilie du Chatelet, (1706 – 1749) a woman twelve-years his junior but, with her own formidable intellect and determined, individual disposition. They would spend the next sixteen years together and form one of the great romantic and intellectually influential love affairs in all history. Emilie du Chatelet was indeed a remarkable woman and one who made several great contributions to science, she had a profound influence on Voltaire, his thinking and his writing. She was regarded as the first and only women of science and mathematics during her time in France, she published a novel criticizing Locke, which emphasized the need for knowledge to be empirical and verified through experience. She published a paper on heat and light, predicting what is today known as infrared radiation. She wrote a paper titled ‘Lessons in Physics’ in which she attempted to reconcile complex ideas from some of the leading thinkers of the time. She translated Sir Isaac Newton’s ‘Principia Mathematica’ into French and then conducted experiments that were based on Gottfried Leibnitz’s theories on kinetic energy and velocity, counter to Newton’s theory. She published a critical analysis of the bible and she also translated the extraordinary poem by Bernard Manderville, (1679 – 1733) ‘The Fable of the Bees’ into French: The poem was published in 1705, the book in 1714. The poem suggests such key principles of economic thought, as the division of labour and the “invisible hand”, seventy years before these concepts were elucidated by Adam Smith. Two centuries later, the noted economist John Maynard … Read more

What is this Famous Soupe Élysée aux Truffes VGE?

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The legend of the famous truffle soup was born in 1975 February 25, when French president Valéry Giscard D’Estaing promoted Paul Bocuse to Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur (the highest decoration in France). For that occasion, the father of French gastronomy was asked to prepare a special meal and one of the dishes he decided to serve for the president and the guests was la soupe aux truffes. A sublimely rich and smooth soup made with a double consommé beef broth, with black winter truffles, foie gras and spring vegetables, all topped with a crisp puff pastry lid, the Soupe Elysée aux Truffes seems to bring together everything that is best about French cuisine in one divine dish that has become the stuff of legend. Almost 50 years ago, the famed French chef Paul Bocuse created this dish for a lunch at the Èlysée Palace hosted by the President of France, Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. The lunch was being held in order to present Bocuse with the Legion d’Honneur, the highest French order of merit, in recognition of his eminent contribution to civil life. The dish has become emblematic of Bocuse, and is still one of the most sought-after at his restaurant in Lyon, where it is known as La Soupe aux Truffes VGE, after the president in whose name it was created. Bocuse said that the recipe was inspired by two recipes, a rich and creamy chicken and beef soup that he was served at a farmer’s house in Ardèche, and a truffle covered with puff pastry, like an “English chicken pie”, that his friend, the three-Michelin-starred chef, Paul Haeberlin, had served him in Alsace. Bocuse set out to create something that retained the depth of flavour, but was also “lighter, with more smoothness”. As for the tureen in which the soup is traditionally served, the idea came upon Bocuse as he was developing and testing his new recipe. It is now an integral part of the experience. “And how does one eat it?” asked Giscard d’Estaing on being served this soup that day in 1975. “We break the crust!” replied Bocuse. And we agree, this is the very best way to start any meal. Book your table at Topaz Written by Nicky Sullivan

Free Flow Business Lunch at Khema

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Beautifully presented and served as always, the menu highlight some of the classics from our à la carte, with some new additions to keep a spring in our chefs’ steps. Perhaps one of the greatest lunch deals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap It’s not just because we’re saying it that we think it’s true: Khéma’s weekday Free Flow Business Lunch is simply a genuinely great deal offering some of the finest French cooking in town for just $15 net for up to 30 different dishes! Perhaps it is one of the greatest lunch deals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Beautifully presented and served as always, the menu change every week, highlighting some of the classics from our à la carte, with some new additions to keep a spring in our chefs’ steps. On the menu this week, take your pick from a dozen of starters, including chicken liver paté, classic French onion soup, Chef’s salad with white ham and Emmental cheese, or Eggs Mimosa with fresh homemade mayonnaise. As many mains, including a mouthwatering grilled lemon garlic marinated chicken breast served with steamed potatoes, creamy spinach cannelloni or the classic pork scaloppini alla milanese with spaghetti. For dessert don’t skip the pithiviers pie made with puff pastry and stuffed with sweet almond filling We don’t think we need to say any more about that. Make sure to ask what’s on the menu next time you, with friends or associates or simply yourself, drop in, for a one in a kind lunch experience. Book your table now!

Khmer Cuisine and Wine

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Khmer cuisine is one of the world’s oldest living cuisines and one of the most resilient on the planet. Pairing wine with Khmer cuisine can be fun and can bring a great deal of enjoyment and satisfaction, although certain accepted wine pairing norms must and can be successfully abandoned Spices are often exquisite in quality, yet restrained and understated in their use. Regional flavours and dishes prevail: turmeric from Battambang, Salt from Kep, and of course Pepper from Kampot, which is internationally renowned for its intensity and unique characteristics. Saffron is valued for medicinal qualities as well as flavor and aroma, whilst tamarind also forms the basis of many sauces and marinades. An assortment of freshwater fish from the Tonle Sap, Mekong, Bassac; seafood from Kep and beyond are sought out and savoured. There are influences in the cuisine from China, (the Chinese began moving in Cambodian circles as far back as the thirteenth century), Vietnam and Thailand; as well as the impact of French colonialism on dish construction and cooking technique. Chili is widely used in Khmer cuisine although more sparingly than its neighbours. Prahok is a national institution made from fermented fish and used much in the way westerners would use salt to season their cooking. Kroeung is a widely used curry paste, made from the skillful art of spice blending; common ingredients in Khmer Kroeung are cardamom, star anise, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, cilantro and kaffir lime leaves. Rice is the staple, and then the meal consists of a number of different dishes that individually highlight certain flavor components, (salty, sour, sweet, bitter, hot, umami) which, when combined as a single degustation, offer a sense of having a complete and satisfactory meal. Wine and Khmer Cuisine Pairing wine with Khmer cuisine can be fun and can bring a great deal of enjoyment and satisfaction, although certain accepted wine pairing norms must and can be successfully abandoned. For a start, it’s not going to work trying to pair a certain wine to a certain dish given that the meal usually consists of a selection of dishes, that when eaten as a whole form the complete meal. If you are trying to match glass-for-dish you will have an awkward table cluttered with multiple glasses per person! So, what we are looking for here are good all-rounders, wines that can pair well with the fresh clean flavours of Khmer food across multiple proteins and styles. Wines that can be paired to bitter, sour ingredients and pungent, salty and spicy foods. Look at aromatic whites, which positively zing paired with the fresh herbs, greens and spices abundant in Khmer soups, salads and other dishes, the wide use of freshwater fish and seafood also make these wine styles perfect partners: think Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Alberino, Pinot Grigio, Verdejo and you are on the right track. Rose can work well, particularly with the standard pork and rice, or with spicier chicken or pork dishes: look for the slightly off dry styles, as that fruity, sweetness ameliorates the heat. If it has to be red, then I adore Pinot Noir with Khmer cuisine, its lush fruit characters, lively acidity and only faint tannins make it a wonderful food wine across many dishes and styles. Although, most fruity and fruit driven reds will work well. For the fuller-flavoured, dishes, look for wines made from Merlot, Carmenere, Grenache, and GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre) blends. For the heavier, meaty dishes I like a Malbec from Argentina, a juicy Aussie Shiraz, a rustic Cote Rotie from France, or a Touriga Nacional from Portugal. I personally find the main trick is to stay away from high alcohol wines, from oaky wines or big, tannic reds, high alcohol amplifies heat, whilst tannins and new wood characters tend to be amplified by dishes involving bitterness, sourness or spiciness. Instead, look for pure, fruit driven wines with good, vibrant acidity to enhance your Cambodian culinary odyssey and enjoy. Written by Darren Gall

Wine Uby Dooby

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For 3 generations, François Morel and his team have been working to give a human, environmental and sustainable orientation to the Uby estate. Located in the Gers, it takes its name from the stream that runs through the property’s land The Little Pond Terrapin The European Pond Turtle (Emys orbicularis), is a little freshwater turtle in the family Emydidae that is long lived and endemic to the Western Palearctic. In France, there is only one remaining population, making it is the most endangered reptile in the country. Climate has an effect on the survival of Pond Terrapin hatchling, which are only able to survive under favorable weather conditions. The species has become rare in most countries even though it is widely distributed in Europe. The building of roads and cars driving through natural habitats is a factor that threatens the populations of the European pond turtle. Introduced exotic species such as Yellow-Bellied Slider Turtles and Florida turtles, also put the native species in danger, since these species are bigger and heavier. Parasites are also an issue that puts the Terrapin at risk as do domestic pets. Agricultural and Industrial run off into their ponds has also had a major impact on their survival as a species. Domaine Uby It is not by chance that the turtle is the emblem of the Domaine Uby winery. Uby is the name of a stream that crosses the estate and the Uby pond in Gers, a protected place where the last European Pond Turtles in Europe live and reproduce. This emblem reflects the Morel family’s total commitment to the protection, survival and overall well-being of the species here, through sustainable farming and complete protection and preservation of their natural environment. Domaine Uby has subscribed to an agri-ecological contract, and has been certified ‘Viticulture Raisonnée Contrôlée’ for the past 20 years, in its commitment to the terrapins, the environment and the climate. Crops on the estate are produced organically to ensure a harmonious balance and a neutral footprint. The Morrel Family were a family of Swiss winemakers who moved to France and came to the Gascogne region in 1920. Today, Francois Morel is the 4th generation of his family to tend the vines here and produce the wines. In 2012, Francois constructed a new, modern equipped winery in his ongoing pursuit of making excellent Gascogne wines. In a region dominated by Armagnac producers who make a bit of wine on the side, Francoise Morrel is committed to table wine production and is producing wines of outstanding, freshness, quality and finesse. No.6 The Uby range of numbered wines are all about capturing primary fruit characters and freshness, wines ready and enjoyable to drink now, wines that are beautifully made, are expressions of place and fruit quality and are fun to drink. The No.6 Rose is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France, Merlot and Syrah grown in a combination of sandy loams and limestone soils. After a short time of maceration on skins, the grapes were gently pressed and the juice underwent a cool, temperature-controlled fermentation, with some maturation on yeast lees to gain further length and complexity. The colour is a very vibrant, salmon pink with orange hues, almost the colour of a light Aperol spritz in a certain light. Aromas are of rich, toasty honeyed fruit, with a touch of fruit pastel confection, raspberry, peach, ripe fig. The palate shows attractive fruit, juicy and ripe with clean fresh flavours, lots of finesse here, the wine is relatively low in acidity but this is balanced by the clean, freshness of the fruit in the glass. A very pleasing and enjoyable wine that is bound to be a crowd pleaser. Take it to the party, barbecue or picnic and you are sure to have a lot of fun with it. Written by Darren Gall

Cambodia’s Young Chefs Emerging Talents

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Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag The Young Talents Escoffier Competition is part of a global network and has become one of the most prestigious and important competitions for young culinary and front-of-house talents On 19 June, the Academy of Culinary Arts Cambodia hosted its third Disciples Escoffier Cambodia Young Talents Competition with four chefs vying for top place and the chance to represent Cambodia on an international stage. Nhem Samon from Palace Gate Hotel, Mao Vanna from Pepe Bistro, Nuon Rithysak from Il Forno and Sek Ratana from Topaz are all under 25 years of age and have less than five years of professional experience in hotel or restaurant kitchens. They were tasked with proving their skills by preparing and cooking classic dishes created by the legendary French chef, Auguste Escoffier: a rack of lamb with boulangère potatoes and a pea tart, and to present their creations to Bruno Cardonne, the ACAC’s Dean, and President of the Disciples Escoffier Cambodia delegation. They had three hours to complete their mission. The Young Talents Escoffier Competition is part of a global network and has become one of the most prestigious and important competitions for young culinary and front-of-house talents. According to the Academy, “this competition was the perfect opportunity for talented young chefs to showcase their culinary creativity and versatility.“ But the competition also serves as a vehicle for promoting and developing traditional methods for preparing and cooking culinary masterpieces that may also integrate contemporary techniques that shape the future of culinary arts. Mr Cardone explained that training and practice are essential to “survive” this competition. “Training with the mentor helps competitors stay focused during the competition and pay attention to time management, taste and presentation of the dish. Young chefs are required to adapt tips provided by their mentors and use them to accomplish the given tasks. With enough practice and knowledge of the dish, the stress level of the contestant will automatically be more manageable and the focus will be on the flavours and originality of the dish” he said. The main criteria for evaluating the winners were the set-up, preparation and creativity, the methods of service and presentation, as well as the taste and textures of each dish. Awards: 1st place Mao Vanna – Pepe Bistro Disciples Escoffier certificate and medal, Disciples Escoffier recipe book, participation in the Disciples Escoffier competition in Hong Kong. 2nd place Nhem Samon- Palace Gate Hotel Awards: Certificate and medal from the Disciples Escoffier Association, Disciples Escoffier recipe book. 3rd place Sek Ratana – Topaz Awards: Certificate and medal from Disciples Escoffier International, Disciples Escoffier recipe book. All three winners took home a certificate and medal recognising their performance, but Mao Vanna will now go on to represent Cambodia at the Disciples Escoffier Young Talents Competition in Hong Kong in September this year. Mr Mao impressed the jury with his organisational skills, cleanliness and the finesse of his final dish. Exhausted but full of excitement, he said, “It’s still a bit surreal right now. I’ve been training hard and of course the main goal of any competition is to win, but I personally came here for the experience.“ “Now that I have this unique opportunity to compete in the Hong Kong International Competition and represent my country, my culture and my cuisine, I have to challenge myself every day and make the most of it!”

Tradition and Evolution in Stung Treng’s Famed Ansorm Chrouk

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Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag Ansorm Chrouk cakes are traditionally made for festivals, weddings and big events, but Sophea now makes them all year round and in that way is able to provide employment for up to eight widows, retirees and children who would be able to save up for their studies In a recent article, the Phnom Penh Post celebrated the creations of Nget Sophea from Prek village in Stung Treng province. She has combined tradition and transformation in her version of Ansorm Chrouk, a steamed glutinous rice cake with pork, by mixing the rice with pandan leaf water, giving the cakes a soft green colour, and placing a salted duck egg at their heart. A rich and delicious surprise. She was inspired by a recipe handed down to her by her grandparents and now people travel from across Cambodia to taste her creations which were recently recognised as a signature dish for the region by the Stung Treng Provincial Department of Culture and Fine Arts. Ansorm Chrouk cakes are traditionally made for festivals, weddings and big events, but Sophea now makes them all year round and in that way is able to provide employment for up to eight widows, retirees and children who would be able to save up for their studies. Speaking to the Post, Stung Treng provincial department of tourism director Orn Porsoeun felt that selling Ansorm Chrouk is part of the culture and is attractive as Sophea’s cakes are unique and have a different taste. “I have always been involved in promoting and disseminating information about products which are unique to attract more tourists. I see ansorm as a kind of food with unique flavour, which tourists must not overlook. It is a must-try.” Sophea had never intended to take this path. She used to sell porridge and noodles at Stung Treng market, but like so many was forced to adapt when Covid-19 hit. Then one day, she was making the cakes for her family, but made too many. “I had made about 30 cakes, which was too much. I thought we wouldn’t be able to finish them, so my children posted on Facebook to see if anyone was interested in buying [them]“. “After that, people started ordering 50-60 cakes. That was when my business started. The orders gradually gradually increased to 80 cakes a day, then 100 to 150 and about 500 during about 500 cakes during the festival,” she said. She also says that the cakes are not her creation, but that of her elders, saying “I learned how to do it from my grandparents and my mother. Now I transfer those skills to the children who work with me.” And alongside the recipe, she has also kept up the family tradition of transmission of knowledge, sharing the recipe with whomever is curious. She is not stopping there either, and is now looking at different recipes, such as a Banana Ansorm, that she can sell in front of her house, while also educating the next generation about traditional Khmer food in order to keep traditions alive. Stung Treng is also known for its fish soups, fried buffalo and larb, which in Stung Treng is made with fish in contrast to other regions of Cambodia. Sophea’s Ansorm Chrouk cakes can be ordered online via her Facebook page, P-DA Food.