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Book Review: The Rural Cuisine of Angkor by Ang Choulean

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[Adapted from an article in Cambodge Mag: https://www.cambodgemag.com/post/livre-gastronomie-la-cuisine-rurale-d-angkor-par-ang-choulean] The esteemed Cambodian scholar Ang Choulean’s near 300-page essay on the culinary habits and diets of people during the Angkor era can be found at the Center for Khmer Studies in Siem Reap. Available for lending in French and Khmer, it is the result of nearly two decades of research on the era and the region, especially the Roluos area, and an inspiring resource for those interested in Cambodia’s culinary history. His findings demonstrate the historical continuity of Cambodian cuisine since ancient times, and the definitive rural and vegetal character of the Cambodian diet. He also records how the apparent simplicity of village food accurately responded, and still responds, to nutritional and gustatory needs of the moment. Far from being a collection of recipes, or following a “structuralist” approach to Cambodian agrarian society, the essay deals with “culinary situations”: the when, where, how, by whom and for what purpose cooked food was and is prepared in the context of the villages near Angkor Wat. Choulean’s research encompasses fishing and hunting techniques, agricultural skills, the time and place of meals, cooking methods, the use of spices — quite limited, although Cambodian pepper is praised worldwide — and special occasions, as well as linguistic and historical considerations. Of particular interest is the author’s reflection on the (surprisingly for many scholars) limited, if any, influence of Indian cuisine on the diet and tastes of rural Cambodia, while the ‘taste of Chinese food’ was integrated into festive meals as a symbol of material wealth and prosperity. At the heart of the rural diet is somla (stew), which the author presents in two main categories, somla mchou (‘sour stew’) and somla prohoc (the word prohoc here defining the ‘stimulating’ taste imparted by herbs and leaves, not to be confused with prahok, the famous fermented fish preparation). As for cooking techniques, the author defines, for example, chha kdao, literally “stir-fried hot”, fried in hot cooking liquid, and p-krek, a term imitating the dry sound of ingredients just heated in a pan without liquid or fat, “dry-cooked”, a technique used for ants, among other things. The symbolism of ingredients is also explored in depth. For example, the author notes that lemongrass, although widely used, is rarely retained in the final presentation of the dish, as villagers believed that the ageing tufts of the aromatic herb may be inhabited by evil spirits. Ang Choulean is an anthropologist, Professor of Historical Anthropology at the Royal University of Fine Arts and former Director of the Department of Culture at APSARA. He was the second Cambodian national to receive the Fukuoka Grand Prize in 2011.

How to be a First-Class Employer

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Being the best employer you can be is more than an exercise in feeling good. It’s a key element in attracting the best talents and putting dynamite into your sales figures… The Cambodia Restaurant Association was created to develop, improve and bring innovation to Cambodia’s restaurant industry. A large part of that mission lies in education, whether it be updates on government regulations, help navigating financial and tax rules, or guidance on IT, marketing, or supply chain management. Last month, it was time for the teams who deal with Human Resources to step up to the podium as they delivered a workshop on what it means to be a first class employer, and how to achieve it. The workshop was chaired by Thalias’ own HR Director, Mr. Yok Settha, who led a panel made up of consultants, industry members and training institutes. They addressed why it pays to be a first-class employer, the different elements involved, the legal framework and exactly what employees are looking for today in their relationship with their employer and employment (spoiler alert: a pay cheque is only part of the equation, and often not even the priority). Indeed, since COVID, many employees are now more concerned about achieving a better work-life balance and flexible working arrangements*. One of the speakers was Julie Thai from b.Consulting Cambodia, a Phnom Penh-based consultancy for hospitality providers across Cambodia. Julie has more than 20 years of running successful restaurants at every level behind her, and one of her main focuses today is on training staff to improve quality service and production, reduce staff turnover and maximise productivity. We asked her a couple of questions after the workshop to offer some additional guidance on the practicalities around becoming a First-Class Employer. In particular, we wondered how an employer can go about defining a budget for investing into their employees’ skills. Acknowledging that the hospitality industry can sometimes fall behind other sectors in terms of their investment in staff training, Julie pointed out that skills development costs are a strategic move for any company, similar to a marketing budget. She noted though that expenses related to training budget should always be justified by answers to simple questions such as “how much will it cost, why should I spend this amount, how am I going to spend it, what will be the benefit for my company and my clients?”. In terms of how to achieve that, she suggests setting aside a small percentage, say 1-2%, of the annual HR budget for development and implementation of a staff training programme. She added, “As it may have an impact on profit, business owners have to identify their training priorities. Some for instance will target customer service to develop their sales and revenue, other will choose to allocate training costs on leading abilities for the middle management to increase employee retention rate”. But there are plenty of impactful steps any employer who wants to be a good employer can take even before they commit to a budget and programme. And this is not just to the benefit of employees, but of the employer too. Julie suggests, “determining the right tasks and feasible goals, appointing the right person to it, giving enough time to complete the job, offering support whenever employees encounter professional or personal issues are clearly the basics. As an employer, the very first thing for business owners to ask themselves is whether they provide a good environment workplace and all tools for their team to succeed in their job. For example, doing an annual interview with each employee is a good moment to review their job description, listen to their input and difficulties and set the path for the following year”. Of course, not every company can approach this issue from the same perspective. In particular, differences in size, from small companies right up to global brands, will of course have differences in their Human Resources structures and resources. But SMEs can still create attractive salary offers, perhaps with profit shares or other incentives. And of course, they have one advantage larger companies simply can’t afford, which is that due to their size, they’re able to offer a more personal style of leadership, while being more responsive and easier to reach out to. In addition to Julie and Settha, this panel was delivered by H.E. Chhay Khunlong, Director General of the Vocational School of Tourism, Thai Chharat, the Vice-Dean of the Hospitality Faculty, and Pat Dany, the Human Resources Manager for the Dara Group of hotels. To find out more about future Cambodia Restaurant Association panels and workshops, which are open to members and non-members, or to look into the benefits of membership, check out their website here: https://cambodiarestaurantassociation.com.kh For more information, have a look on the Linkedin Report in the following link: LinkedIn 2022 Workplace Learning Report

A New Opening, and we’re hiring!

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A shimmering new restaurant in the sky is looking for a great new team ready to soar.\ Speaking of recruitment, the big day for the opening of a brand new Italian style steakhouse is ever closer, and that means we’re looking to hire a fresh, dynamic and committed new team to join the Thalias fold. Siena promises to be a bold, lively venue with a great menu, great atmosphere and great views across the whole of Phnom Penh city. We’re looking for a team that reflects that setting, as well as Thalias’ team values of kindness, curiosity, optimism, self-awareness, ethics, and compassion. What does all that mean? Well, it means that we hire character not experience. Even if you’ve never set foot at work on a restaurant floor before, we can teach you the technicalities. What’s most important to us is the person you are, how you treat your colleagues and customers and, above all, your willingness to learn. The Siena team is looking to recruit at all levels, for management and team members, including a Restaurant Manager, Restaurant Captains, Chef de Partie, Sous Chef, Bartenders, Waiters, Dishwashers and more. So if you think you have the Thalias spark, check out the email below and send us your CV together with a brief cover letter explaining which position you’re applying for and why. And in light of our previous article on How to be a First Class Employer, we can say that Thalias offers more than just good salaries and working conditions. Thalias offers a way up, and will support anyone with the ambition and the talent to excel at what they do. We will invest in your training and development as much as you invest in your job. If that sounds like a fair deal, then write to us now at: jobs@thaliashospitality.com, or send a message through Telegram to: 016 579 555 or 106 847 888. We look forward to hearing from you. Siena Italian Steakhouse

Are You Embracing Equity for International Women’s Day

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“Imagine a gender equal world. A world free of bias, stereotypes, and discrimination. A world that’s diverse, equitable, and inclusive. A world where difference is valued and celebrated. Together we can forge women’s equality. Collectively we can all Embrace Equity.” We’re not as used to hearing the word ‘equity’ in relation to the longstanding campaign for women’s rights. Historically, that has been ruled by a desire to achieve ‘equality’. But while the battle for equality goes on, it can’t really be won until the issues raised by equity are addressed. This refers to fairness, justice and impartiality and, as such, carves out a far more effective and realistic path to securing necessary rights, recognition and equality for women all over the world. While equality means providing the same to all, equity recognises that people don’t all start out from the same place and therefore the same things do not necessarily mean the same thing to them. It’s about everybody getting what they need to improve the quality of their situation, and as much as that can be very different between men and women, it can be different from woman to woman too. Equality remains the goal. Equity is how we get there. We have recognised this at Thalias for some time. While we are not in a position to uniquely tailor the training and support that we make available to all our team members, we do make sure they get the support and training that they need and ask for. It’s one of the reasons women have been so tremendously successful in this company, and will always continue to be so. But it’s not just about what employers can do. Everyone has a role to play in promoting equity in the world around them. It takes courage to challenge gender stereotypes when we encounter them, or discrimination or bias, but it can be done. Positive change comes from an accumulation of tiny acts that might seem insignificant in the moment, but added together become an irresistible force for change, and a better, happier, world for everyone. We celebrate the achievements of all the women who work for Thalias, but we also celebrate what those achievements mean for the people in their lives, their families, friends and co-workers alike. Because we really believe that every successful woman helps to clear the path for all the women coming up behind her. Success is contagious, and her impact will be felt and lived for generations to come. And if you’d like to celebrate the women in your life, then what better way than a sublime evening out at Topaz, or perhaps take a moment that’s really worth savouring with an Afternoon Tea at Khéma. Let her or them know how much you value them. #International Women’s Day

Bringing Back the Business Lunch!

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Business is back in business in Cambodia, which means that the business lunch is back too. But with everyone still keeping an eye on budgets, that doesn’t mean that the kind of breakthroughs that business lunches inspire have to break the bank… Business is coming back to Cambodia, and that means one very important thing (as far as we’re concerned anyway): business Lunches are coming back too. At Topaz and Khéma, we’ve made it our business to make sure that you have everything you need to get through your agenda with colleagues, associates and clients in a refined and serious setting, without any fuss, delays, interference, or a digestion-inducing bill. A few years ago, it was declared that the days of the business lunch were over, though this had more to do with the tax laws of a particular country than the actual usefulness of a long-standing tradition. But the Business Lunch is more than just a tradition, because a carefully thought-out Business Lunch will always deliver so much more than what’s on the menu. Among clients, associates and colleagues, it’s an effective way of breaking down barriers, cementing relationships and finding common grounds that define the path for advancement. Something as simple as the change of context can help those attending to reframe problems or situations in their minds, and arrive at solutions or agreements they might not otherwise have done. It’s also a great way to show appreciation for your team’s achievements, strengthen the bonds between them, or to cheerfully welcome a new recruit. This is why the Business Lunch remains popular, despite what the naysayers say. That’s what naysayers do though. In Phnom Penh, Topaz is one of the city’s premier Business Lunch venues because we are able to offer a peerless combination of the highest levels of sophistication, quality and value. Our menu changes every month, and offers a two-course haute cuisine lunch, with drinks, starting at just $19 per person, while a three-course meal including drinks is only $27. It’s hard to argue with numbers like that. But that is not all. For a Business Lunch that combines fine-food standards and preparation with exceptional value and a more relaxed environment, then the Free-Flow Khéma Lunch is a “no-brainer”, as they say in the business world. The extensive Free-Flow Lunch menu changes every week and offers a delicious range of our favourite dishes and revolving specials for the extraordinary price of just $15 per person. And the Free-Flow means you never have to worry about negotiations that might be grinding on, or whether your morning’s work means you’ve worked up an appetite. We predict that the Business Lunch will never die, though its forms will change over the years. The three-hour long “Martini Lunches” of the past are certainly over. Today’s Business Lunch is now a more serious affair, but that’s no reason why it can’t still be useful, rewarding and, of course, delicious.

Chopsticks: the Heart of Refined Dining

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© Akhilesh Sharma

For a beautifully set table, it’s almost impossible to beat the elegance and simplicity of a pair of chopsticks. Their long, slender arms that, well used, form an extension of our own, give them a refinement the clunkier knife and fork can only dream of. And they have a significantly longer history too. It is thought the chopsticks were first used in China as long as 5,000 years ago, though they were then mainly used as cooking utensils. Their adoption as formal eating instruments came at around 200CE, during the Han Dynasty, when a population explosion created a fuel scarcity that meant chefs had to get creative so they could continue creating delicious meals, without using up precious wood. The solution was to cut the food up into small bite-size pieces that needed less cooking time, and thus the wok, the stir-fry and chopsticks as table utensils were born. This also created an elegant way of eating at the table, without any need to carve one’s way through great chunks of meat or unwieldy vegetables. Instead, the meats and vegetables are cut and shaped in such a way that they can be picked up, separated or detached with two simple instruments. As they say, simplicity really is the greatest sophistication. This would explain how these tools soon spread their way across the Asian continent from China, to Vietnam, Japan and Korea. But, while practical, there was a philosophical element to this too. The great Chinese philosopher Confucius, a vegetarian, believed that sharp knives introduced a unwelcome element of brutalism to the dining table, arousing associations with violence between men, but also the violence of the slaughterhouse. Chopsticks on the other hand suggest a calmer, slower and gentler attitude and it was under his teachings that their use became so widespread. It has been suggested that Chinese square-ended chopsticks are an acknowledgement of Confucius’s peaceful teachings, though it is not clear whether this is really the inspiration for that specific form. Chinese chopsticks also tend to be longer to facilitate a tradition of sharing dishes. Japanese chopsticks on the other hand are shorter because the tradition of sharing dishes is not the same. Meanwhile traditional Korean chopsticks are more commonly made from metal than wood or bamboo, perhaps a hark back to a time when it was thought that silver chopsticks would detect any poisons in the food, or a reflection of Korea’s long-standing metalworking skills. Today more than a billion people all over the world use chopsticks as their preferred means for dining, and we think it’s easy to see why, which is why you’ll find our own beautiful branded chopsticks at Malis, perfect for enjoying a delicious bowl of Kuy Teav, or whatever your favourite dish is.

A Celebration of Camembert

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“For the most part, I try to be healthy and eat good things, but if you give me a baguette and some Camembert, I’m gonna eat it.” Gwyneth Paltrow. While every day is Cheese Day as far as we’re concerned, it is nonetheless International Cheese Day this March 27, so we thought it would be a great time to talk about one of France’s most iconic, and, of course, most delicious cheeses, the mighty Camembert. It’s also one of France’s most easily recognised cheeses. With its distinctive talcum-white rind shot through with tawny hints of the deliciousness beneath. The squat disc shape helps to visually distinguish the Camembert from its older cousin, Brie, which is usually made as a larger wheel. Underneath that rind, you’ll find the softly melting butter-yellow cow’s milk cheese which they say is best enjoyed when it oozing around the outside but still slight firm in the centre so that you can enjoy the full range of flavours and textures, from slightly chalky to smooth, creamy velvet, this cheese has to offer. Unlike so many French cheeses, Camembert is a relative newcomer. While there is mention of a cheese named Camembert back in 1702, it is likely that it bore no resemblance to the cheese we see today. Instead, the modern version was most likely created around the time of the French Revolution when a local woman named Marie Harel offered shelter to a priest fleeing the Revolutionary loyalty oath. To pay her back, he taught her the cheesemaking technique used in his former parish in Brie, which Harel adapted to the local cheesemaking methods, and thus Camembert was born. Of course, no one knows any more if this story is actually true or not. The differences in techniques used for making Brie and Camembert can be tasted though. Brie is typically creamier with a higher fat content, and subtle flavours of fruits and mushrooms. Camembert, on the other hand, has a lower fat content with more distinct flavours of mushrooms, almonds, truffles and even roast lamb. As for pairing, given its origins a dry Normandy cider is always a delight on a hot day. If you prefer red wine, go for something light like a Beaujolais, or take a full-bodied, fruity white like a Chardonnay or sweet Chenin Blanc. At Khéma Deli outlets (at Khéma La Poste and Pasteur in Phnom Penh, and Khéma Angkor in Siem Reap), you’ll find the original Camembert produced by artisan cheesemakers in France, and you’ll also find our own version, Khémabert, made right here in Cambodia using fresh cows’ milk from a herd near Preah Vihear. We challenge you to try out this delicious cheese, made with French savoir faire and flavours direct from the earth of Cambodia.

Parlerez Vous Français aves Nous this International Francophonie Day?

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© Chris Karidis

The French language is being celebrated this month, presenting an opportunity to get to know one of the most beautiful languages in the world that, for an added bonus, can connect you with millions of people all over that world. Whether they’re French, Cambodian or any of the other nationalities that share this world, the French speakers of Cambodia are part of a 321-million-people-strong global community of people who speak their language. That’s 321 million potentially life-altering encounters, insights, inspirations and connections that are accessible thanks to the extraordinary power of a shared language that can bridge divides across geographies, generations and cultures. This connection between the French speakers of this world will be celebrated this March 20 on International Francophonie Day, a date created by Unesco in 1970 to mark the creation of the agency that would go on to become the International Organisation of La Francophonie (IOF). The French language is the fifth most-spoken language in the world, and is the fourth most used on the internet (after English, Spanish and Arabic). It has long had an important place on the global level as a symbol of culture and creativity, and also of democracy and humanism. Speaking at a celebration of this day five years ago, Ms Audrey Azoulay, then Director-General of Unesco, spoke of the French language’s capacity to “unite people, to create spaces of solidarity and mutual understanding, to reflect together on our common future”. It’s also practical. Among respondents to a survey conducted by the IOF last year, people said that speaking or learning French helped them to get a job, study, find information, conduct research and access other cultures. Speaking another language broadens your horizons by an unimaginable magnitude. And for those for whom French is a second (or third, fourth, or fifth!) language, the advantages go even deeper. Bilingualism has been associated with a massive range of subtler benefits including greater success in education and work, greater ease when learning further languages, higher average earnings, and it also helps to stave off dementia, which is always nice. It also helps to enrich the speaker’s life through broadened horizons and the capacity to consider things from different perspectives. Bilingual people tend to be more creative and flexible, they can be more open-minded and also find it easier to focus on a variety of tasks at the same time. And then there is also the opportunity to explore cultures from all over the world that may share common historical experiences. As Madame Azoulay said during her speech, “it is this diversity of destinies, gathered in the language that we share, that we are invited to celebrate”. For an opportunity to explore more about French language and culture, the Alliance Française in Siem Reap and the French Institute in Phnom Penh. The Alliance Française will be celebrating this week from 18 to 26 March, with a number of events for their students, including karaoke, poetry readings and films. All of these are also open to the public to join in. Keep an eye on their Facebook page to find out more about events and about signing up for their extremely good value French language courses. The Institut Français in Phnom Penh will also be holding events this week, and you can find out plenty about the huge range of events and activities they host on their Facebook page. N’hésitez pas à les joindre. Even if you don’t speak French, there’s so much more in common than you think.

Does speaking French ever get you into a pickle?

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(“Get into a pickle” = get into a little trouble…) Picking up a language’s idioms is a fantastic way to deepen not only your language skills, but also to deepen your connection with that language’s culture. Food is not simply the fuel that sustains our bodies, it nourishes our minds too, and it also serves as a means though which we communicate our sense of who we are, where we came from, who raised us and how. Language, thought and culture are so entwined that it’s no surprise to find that food is so deeply embedded into everyday language in France, especially in the form of its idioms. With all that in mind, here’s our quick guide to some of France’s favourite foodie sayings. Avoir de la Bouteille (having some bottle) — used to describe someone who is wise through experience and age, like a fine wine! (Funnily enough, the English equivalent almost means the opposite. Someone’s who’s “got some bottle” is usually someone who is showing a little more courage or confidence than perhaps their position or capacities merit. On the other hand, if you did do something that took some bottle, then it’s probable you’ve shown more than common courage. And if you’ve “bottled it”, it means you’ve lost your bottle and been a coward, not doing what you could or should have done. English bottles are confusing. Mettre de l’Eau Dans Son Vin (putting water in his wine) — something a wise person would do at judicious moments, which is to compromise or take a more moderate stance on something (i.e. dilute one’s wine or position). While this sounds like a heresy today, pouring a little water into your wine used to be an accepted practice when wines tended to be coarser and harder to swallow. Thus, if you cut your views with a little water, they become easier for the other person to take in. Retourner Quelqu’un Comme une Crêpe (flipping someone like a crêpe) — on the other hand, you wouldn’t want to add too much water to your wine and become too compromising in case someone too easily changes your mind, or flips you like a crêpe! Se Faire Rouler Dans la Farine (to be rolled in flour) — of course, if the other person is smarter or less naive than you, it might be that you’ll end up being taken advantage of (rolled in flour) anyway. Raconter des Salades (talking salads) — and if someone’s trying to take advantage of you, it’s very likely that they’ll also be telling you lies. This idiom has a parallel in English with the phrase “word salad”, meaning someone who is using too many words in order to create confusion, or sometimes to hide their own ignorance and pretend they’re smarter or more knowledgeable than they actually are. Tourner au Vinagire (turn to vinegar) — at this point, the situation might start to turn a bit sour, into vinegar, i.e. something that started out good has become bad or unpleasant. La Moutarde lui Monte au Nez (the mustard is rising to his nose) — so now you’re probably getting more and more impatient and angry, and the sharp smell of mustard is tingling your nostrils. Ménager le Chèvre et le Chou (sparing the goat and the cabbage) — at this point in this terrible situation, someone else may intervene and try to calm things down. But they need to be careful how they do it. If they try to please both sides (sparing both the goat and the cabbage who clearly have opposing opinions on whether or not the goat should eat the cabbage), then it’s possible that no one will be happy in the end. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way out of this situation is to keep one of Cambodia’s many foodie idioms in mind, and Tuk Moat Si Moan: save your mouth for eating chicken.

AFD: An enduring commitment to sustainable development in Cambodia

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A celebration of 30 years of a cooperation between France and Cambodia that has benefitted both countries in uncountable ways. Last month, the Agence Française de Développement (AFD) celebrated 30 years of working in and with Cambodia with a mission to promote structural development, such as water resource management, while supporting the commercial sector taking account of environmental and social standards, such as renewable energies. Senior representatives of the Government of the Kingdom of Cambodia and AFD’s partner institutions attended the celebration held at the Residence of France under the invitation of H.E. Ambassador Jacques Pellet, Mr Rémy Rioux, AFD’s Chief Executive Officer and Mrs Sandrine Boucher, AFD’s Director in Cambodia. Marked by the strong ties between France and Cambodia, the event provided an opportunity to look back at the successes of the last 30 years, while also looking ahead at the possibilities of the future. AFD has been one of Cambodia’s trusted partners for the past 30 years, and has provided almost €900 million of financing for rural development, environmental protection and biodiversity, energy, water and sanitation, infrastructure, education and vocational training. This long-term support has, inter alia, helped improve access to drinking water in the capital and electricity in rural provinces. In 2017, AFD ramped up its activities, with 50% of cumulative commitments since 1993 granted after this date. The agency expects this trend to continue over the next three years, with an additional €100 to €150 million in the pipeline. During his visit, AFD Director Mr Rémy Rioux met with the country’s main development actors in order to reinforce relations and cooperation. The agency works closely with numerous ministries, including the Ministry of Economy and Finance which coordinates all financing granted by AFD, as well as public companies (PPWSA, Electricity of Cambodia), the financial sector and community and civil rights organisation. Mr Rious was also received by His Excellency the Prime Minister Hun Sen towards the end of his visit. The celebration was marked by a photo exhibition, “AFD, 30 Years of Action for Sustainable Development”, which was displayed on the outside walls of the embassy. A further exhibition in the embassy gardens was greatly, including an examination of projets from the Phare Ponleu Selpak School of Visual and Applied Arts was greatly enjoyed by guests. The challenges of just transition were addressed in the course of the evening, including the impacts of climate change, as well as new and innovative collaborations around public climate governance and adaptive social protection. This evening was also an opportunity to look to the future and to young people by highlighting the importance of AFD’s portfolio of vocational training projects, notably with the Asian Development Bank. It was also the occasion for a meeting with young Cambodians who are international volunteers for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Finally, the evening saw the presentation of the MobiliseYourCity Partnership certificate to His Excellency Mr Pharat Nuon, Vice Governor of Phnom Penh.