Thalias Hospitality

The best of France with Franck at Khéma

If you’ve been visiting Khéma Pasteur over the last few days, you may have noticed a fresh-faced Frenchman in chef’s whites about the place. And if you haven’t been introduced to him already, then we are very pleased to present Franck Grabowski, a pastry chef (patissier) with 25 years’ experience in creating delicious pastries, cakes, macarons, chocolates, sweets, ice creams and desserts back home in France. And now he’s turned his hand to working with our team here in Cambodia. Franck arrived here in April this year, originally settling with his wife, Montha, in Siem Reap, where they had planned on setting up a guest house. But we all know now what Covid can do to anyone’s hopes. And so he contacted Thalias. We weren’t actually looking for anyone at the time, but on inviting him for a three-day ‘trial’, decided to create a position for him and the skills he brings with him. Franck literally grew up with his hands dusted in flour. The patisserie he eventually came to call his own had belonged to his father since Franck was 13. After a spell in which he studied law in nearby Poitiers, Franck came back to the heart of things, and after studying went to work alongside his father in the mid-90s. After five years, Le Pêché Mignon (the “guilty pleasure”, or, “sweet spot”) became his own, and he has run it together with Montha and their team ever since. Or, until this year. Aside from working with her husband, Montha is key to why they are here now. Born in France, Montha’s family is Cambodian, with relatives still based around Oddar Meanchey. She and her husband had visited the country several times over the last several years, and it was on their last visit in 2016 that they started to put together the idea of making a definitive move. And then they did it. With Thalias, Franck has been charged, inter alia, with bringing the entire patisserie range up to date, which means re-conceiving and testing the recipes, with particular reference to the ingredients that are actually available rather than the ingredients he would ideally have to hand and also, just as importantly, with reference to the different environment and palates that prevail here. It’s a challenge with a great deal of adjustments at every level. At the same time, he isn’t afraid to experiment and to integrate new ideas and ingredients where he can. The task isn’t without other challenges too. It’s fair to say that both Franck and his team here at Khéma Pasteur have a “middling” level of English. However, one of the curses of a language with multiple origins is that there are always at least 20 different words for everything (contrary to many French people’s understanding of the English language!) It’s not easy to get to grips with the workings of an organisation when you’re having to effectively evolve a fourth language of your own out of one you sort of, but not quite, have in common and the two you don’t in which to do it. But that challenge aside, Franck is already working on new ideas and formulations for Khéma’s cakes and more. He’s reluctant to touch the Viennoisserie (croissants, etc.) because, as he says, they’re already better than he often finds in France. Cakes are more complicated for environmental and product-sourcing reasons, and also because he thinks they can be better adapted to Cambodian tastes, which are actually less sweet when it comes to sweet things than he anticipated. He’s already working on a some new versions of old classics that integrate local ingredients as well. So there is much to look forward to for him, with the challenges and all, and even more for us to look forward to on the other side of the counter. Keep your eyes open for the new ideas that will be coming out of Khéma’s kitchens soon!

Khéma Flatiron Ready to Rise

This August, Khéma Restaurant is proudly opening its doors in the landmark Flatiron by Meridian building to the west of Phnom Penh train station. It’s taken more than expected (thank you Covid) but on the first day of August Khéma Flatiron finally opened its doors to the general public: a brand new Khéma venue, with the same great menu and a spectacular location on the 28th floor giving views in every direction across Phnom Penh and on a clear day even as far away as Phnom Aural in Kampong Speu. This new Khéma is a celebration of the best of traditional and modern values. A stunning contemporary design, with clean, open spaces, marble-topped tables and an exquisite curving copper-topped bar provides a fresh, cosmopolitan backdrop not just for those incredible views but also for our way of elevating time-honoured French cooking. This is a venue for a city that’s permanently on the move, always growing, always looking forward; like its people. You’ll find here all the things you’ve long loved about Khéma’s sister outlets on Pasteur, at Khéma La Poste, and not forgetting Khéma Angkor. Our fabulous Free-Flow Breakfast, our Wine & Dine events (just imagine the joy of savouring endless plates of cheese, charcuterie and more while looking out over Phnom Penh’s constellation of twinkling city lights), and soon we will be offering the rightly famous Khéma Business Lunch deal (one of the best value lunch deals in Phnom Penh). Khéma Flatiron will lift your spirits, we have no doubt. We still have more up our sleeve too, and are looking forward to the imminent opening of Siena, an Italian-style steakhouse. Keep an eye on October, because we’re sure you won’t want to miss this. And don’t forget that, if you’re in a hurry, there’s always Khéma GO on the ground floor. Looking forward to seeing you all soon! Written by Nicky Sullivan

Khéma Croissants — Put a Smile on your Day

At GO Artisan Bakery, we pride ourselves on making a pure butter croissant that brings together all the rich, buttery silkiness, the fabulous flakiness, and rich flavour that the best croissants deliver Buttery puff pastry, lightly crisp on the outside, meltingly soft and slightly chewy on the inside with a silkiness that comes from the abundance of butter used in its preparation, the croissant is perhaps one of France’s most instantly recognisable creations. The café-croissant is a French institution and probably one of the first things every visitor to France indulges in. It is the opening phase of their journey, a confirmation that (yes!) they really are in France, that life is good and it’s about to get better. But if you can’t be in France, you can still taste France, and at just a couple of dollars for a freshly brewed coffee with a delicious, freshly baked croissant to dip into it, well, there aren’t many better starts to the day than that. Surprisingly, for such a nationally iconic food, the croissant is actually a relatively recent invention, and its story doesn’t even start in France. Instead, the croissant’s history curves all the way back to 17th century Austria, and the much mooted origin story of their very curvy kipferl. The kipferl though is much “breadier” than the sumptuous pastry that has become France’s favourite breakfast, as indeed were the earliest iterations in France. It was an Austrian named August Zang who made the Austrian kipferl a popular indulgence in 1830’s Paris. But even then, the first written reference to it appears in Payen’s Des Substances Alimentaires, published in 1853, while ten years later it pops up again in the Littré dictionary, where it is defined, rather uninspiringly, as a “little crescent-shaped bread or cake”. A later reference in Les Consummations de Paris (1875) includes ‘croissants for coffee’ in a list of ordinary, as opposed to fine, pastry goods. Definitely not our croissant then, which succeeds at being both ‘ordinary’, as in every day, but lusciously indulgent all at once. The first published recipe doesn’t even appear until 1905, just before French chefs rolled up their sleeves and made this Viennoiserie their very own by melding the idea with puff pastry. The croissant was born. Thank all the gods. At GO Artisan Bakery, we pride ourselves on making a pure butter croissant that brings together all the rich, buttery silkiness, the fabulous flakiness (croissants are probably not advised for those who are obsessively tidy), and rich flavour that the best croissants deliver. Dip it in your coffee (the French way), or slather it with butter and jam (the English way), or just savour it on its own: plain, simple and unadorned deliciousness. But first turn the crescent-shaped treat on its side and instantly put a smile on the start to your day. And then you get to taste it. Written by Nicky Sullivan

Take your Time over Khéma Angkor’s New Weekend Buffet

Khéma Angkor offers a delicious buffet that brings you flavours from East and West, of sweet and savoury, of light bites and hearty dishes, of temptations for adults and children alike You’ve worked hard all week, and now the weekend is here: a time for relaxing, lingering, savouring your time and enjoying the company of friends and family. But sometimes a quick lunch is just that, too quick, and lingering over dinner isn’t always possible either. So, how to make a meal that flows as robustly as a great conversation? A buffet is the answer, a delicious buffet that brings you flavours from East and West, of sweet and savoury, of light bites and hearty dishes, of temptations for adults and children alike. In short, there’s something for everybody here, and it’s only $14, with 50% off for children under 12. Every Saturday and Sunday, from 11am to 3pm, you’ll find Khéma Angkor’s Buffet ready and waiting for you with a handsome selection of hot savoury dishes such as Pork with Prunes, Rice Pilaf, or Spaghetti with an Arabiata Sauce, and generous salads such as Niçoise or Goat Cheese Croutons. You can top up your salad with a range of fresh ingredients, and perfect it with our very own dressings. You’ll also find light-as-air crêpes with a variety of crisp, fresh fruits, syrup and honey, and an abundance of cheeses and charcuterie, including our very own Khémabert and house-made terrines. For those who want to go a little lighter, take your pick of our Mini Quiche Lorraines, bite-sized Egg Sandwiches or toasts with our own richly savoury Chicken Liver Pâté. All that, and we haven’t got to our favourite part yet. Khéma’s Patissiers are masters of their craft, and we’ve put together a truly choice offering of their creations, from smooth and creamy Chocolate Eclairs, Madeleines, Pains Perdus, Chocolate Cake and plenty more besides. And all of this will be refilled as many times as needed. We look forward to seeing you there! Book your table here

Celebrate French National Day at Khéma

This year celebrate July 14th in French style with our Blue-White-Red buffet at Khéma Bastille Day is the common name in English-speaking countries for the celebration of the national day of France. In French, it is formally called Fête nationale française, ergo, Bastille Day is France’s most important holiday. Today, Bastille Day embodies the storied legacy the French Revolution carries for its people and is celebrated worldwide by the French and Francophiles. This year, Khéma invites you to celebrate July 14th in French style with our Blue-White-Red buffet. For $29.90 net per person we’re offering you unlimited servings of our finest imported and house-made cheeses, house-made cold cuts, unlimited canapés, and plenty of France’s most popular dishes such as Tartiflette, Beef Bourguignon, Coq au Vin, Cassoulet, Macarons, Choux à la crème… along with free flow house wine. At that price, we’re a little worried there may be riots to get in the door, so very much recommend reserving a space for you, your friends and family now. Book your table now!

How Brunch Saved the Weekend!

Brunch has become a traditional time to go out and enjoy a full meal in the late morning or early afternoon with friends and booze. But how did brunch become part of our weekly treat? One of the most interesting parts of brunch is its origin. Although first published in England, the concept of brunch has become part of our cuisine’s history. This meal will forever be embedded in history as the meal that helped the weekends with bacon, eggs, movement in the women’s workforce, and recovering debauchery. Everyone knows that the word “brunch” is a mixture of the words “breakfast” and “lunch, which most likely originated in the 16th century in Vienna. During this, people enjoyed a midmorning meal called “Gabelfruhstuck”, meaning ”fork breakfast. But the concept was first published in an 1895 Hunter’s Weekly article. In “Brunch: A Plea,” British author Guy Beringer encouraged a midday meal in contrast to the traditional heavy, after church Sunday meals. Weekend’s Social Necessity The idea began as a way to sleep in and share a relaxing time with friends. According to Beringer, people who drink heavily on Saturday nights should never right away eat when they wake up. Instead, they should skip breakfast and feast on a big midday meal. Beringer also promoted tea and pastries for after brunch as well as the ideal of sharing the meal and hangover tales with your friends. The main purpose of a brunch meal was to heal hangovers by filling your stomach with something solid. Since then, carbs and vitamin-packed cocktails have been a part of brunch. The Meal That Took Over America Brunch became a hit big in America in the 1930s when actors started making their way across the country by train and stopped in a city for a midday meal. The temptation of waking late was the main selling point. As church attendance floundered after World War II, people searched for a new social outlet. The trend caught on to hotels and restaurants which were closed on Sundays. Restaurants soon began offering a large selection of food, introducing such signature morning cocktails as Bloody Marys, Bellinis and Mimosas. A big push for brunch came from the historic progress for women in America. Women in the workforce needed a break from cooking and wanted to take out their families to dine out rather than eat at home on Sunday. Brunch gained steady popularity because it was economicly freindly by combining two meals into one while still being a treat to look forward to on weekends. The success of brunch, pushed restaurants to began offering it on Saturdays, in addition to Sundays. Going out for brunch became far more popular than staying in. Since then, the notion of brunch has expanded to Chinese dim sum, fancy pastries, and loaded bagels. It has become part of weekend activity to enjoy their favorite brunch hotspots, keeping its core value of over 100 years as a social activity. The Real Brunch Menu Khéma is offering a new brunch experience every Saturday and Sunday. Discover the new brunch menu every Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 3pm. Celebrate like the days of old with a family meal or dine with friends hungover from the night before with Khéma and their wide selection of breakfast and lunch dishes. Feast on the eggs Florentine with baby spinach and signature hollandaise sauce, indulge in the tasty traditional pork and prawn kuy teav noodle soup. This special also offers French classics like quiche lorraine with bacon or cheese and eggs baked in a pie crust. A highlight of the brunch menu is the selection of delicious desserts. The crème brulée, a rich vanilla custard with a caramelized crunchy shell of burnt sugar and the classic crème caramel, du chef, is a popular treat on the menu. Written by: Sotheavy Nou

A Wine for the Devil’s Throat

“The ancient Egyptians believed the god Anubis met each of us on the other side, and that he stood before a great scale on which our hearts were set. There each was weighed, tested for its worth. Was this the heart I wanted measured? “ Victor LaValle Anubis Anubis was an important deity to the Egyptians, depicted as a canine or a man with a canine’s head: he was the god of death and all pertaining to it, mummification, embalming, the afterlife, cemeteries, tombs, and the underworld. Anubis was the protector of graves, the one who would guide your soul into the afterlife. It was the god Anubis who would weigh the hearts of the dead to determine whether they could enter into the realm of the afterlife. Grave of Sorrows The Valle de Cafayate is a part of the Valles Calchaquíes, in Salta Province, northwest Argentina. The area is famous for is breathtaking topography, its intricate geology and unique geography, where sub-tropical forests are folded into mountain desserts. The multi-coloured rock formations in the area are famous landmarks, with names like: El Sapo (The Frog), El Fraile (The Friar) and El Obeslico (The Obelisk). And then there is the Garganta del Diablo, (The Devil’s Throat) near the ghost town of Alemania. The Cafayates were a tribe who, together with the Tolombón, inhabited the Valles Calchaquíes prior to the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadores. The word “Cafayate” in the ancient dialect of the Cacana means “burial place for all sorrows”. Cafayate is the heart and soul of the local wine culture, the epicenter for high-altitude wine production in Argentina. With vineyard heights averaging 1700 meters, the area is home to some of the highest winemaking sites on earth. Susana Balbo Of Italian heritage, Susana Balbo’s parents sold tablecloths door-to-door in Guaymallén, Mendoza, and by all accounts they were humble, modest people. As a young girl Susana herself, was nothing if not ambitious; she wanted to study nuclear physics but Susana’s parents forbade her from going away to study. This was understandable at the time given it was the onset of what was to become known as the ‘Guerra Sucia‘, (The Dirty War) in Argentina, when hundreds were killed, thousands were ‘disappeared’ and students were often targeted as sympathizers or agitators. Ultimately, she took up oenology as it could be studied locally, and her parents had purchased a small vineyard because her brother did not want to follow in the family business. In 1981 Susana Balbo became the very first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in oenology, receiving a gold medal along with her Master’s degree for having the highest GPA. This was only the beginning of a hugely successful and much decorated career at some of her country’s most recognizable wineries. Often cited as one of the most influential women winemakers in the world; after gaining experience in Spain, Chile, Italy, Brazil, Australia, and California, Balbo established her own winery in 1999. Since then, she has gone on to forge a much rewarded and respected career, gaining recognition as one of her South America’s greatest winemakers and one of the world’s leading female winemakers. Not satisfied with putting her country’s wines onto the international stage, Balbo has extended her influence into politics and female empowerment. Her list of achievements is substantial: First Woman to graduate in Enology in Argentina – Masters degree with gold medal for highest GPA. Universidad Juan Agustín Maza (Mendoza); 1997 – Awarded by the Argentine Organization of Businesswomen as Women Entrepreneur of the Year; 2001 – Susana Balbo Torrontes selected by British Airways in a blind tasting to be served to Business Class passengers; 2006 – Elected as the President of Wines of Argentina (WofA); 2015 – Awarded the “Woman of the Year” by The Drinks Business. Balbo made the top 10 in 2012 & 2020 – Awarded “Wine Making Legend of the Year” – Tim Atkin MW; Chairwomen of W20 Argentina – A group focused on closing the gender gap in Argentina; and She lists her two children as per greatest achievement with José, a winemaker who graduated from UC Davis (California) and Ana, a Bachelor of Business Administration from University San Andrés (Buenos Aires), both have decided to go on with the family tradition and join the Susana Balbo Winery team. Torrontes Early in her winemaking career, the Torrontes grape variety was being turned into cheap, bulk wine sold in demijohns, or blended away with other white grape varieties as generic blends. The owner of the winery she was working at wanted her to try and make a high quality Torrontes, so Balbo set about making a wine that would have global appeal. Local critics somewhat predictably called the wine ‘too feminine’, but once it was selected for service on Pan-Am airlines first class and began to gain an international audience, the critics were silenced and she is credited with almost singlehandedly changing the fortunes for the variety in Argentina. Because of her success with the variety, Balbo was known for a time as the ‘Queen of Torrontes’. Malbec Although and official variety of Bordeaux, its use in the region diminished significantly after the great frost of 1956, which killed off almost 75% of the Malbec crop. Today, it is Argentina that ‘owns’ the variety on the world stage, producing single varietal Malbec wines that consistently fetch perfect point scores from the critics, win medals and trophies on the world wine show circuit, and fetch breathtaking prices from collectors and connoisseurs. Susana Balbo’s Anubis range is an inexpensive, fruit driven, high quality offering and a great place to start with Argentinian Malbec. This 2020 Malbec comes from the Valle de Cafayate: the wine is dense, dark plum and ox-blood in colour, the aromas are of ripe, fragrant black cherry, pomegranate and blueberry, with notes of black olive, poêle à épices and mixed peel combines with subtle hints of graphite and smoke. Ripe fruit floods the palate, the wine is plush and … Read more

The Eternal Lunch

“The sweetness of food does not last long, but the sweetness of good words do.” Thai Proverb Whilst I lived in Thailand some time ago, I became very fond of a local saying taught to me by my Thai friends; I cherished it, mostly because I could observe it in action almost every day. The saying went something like this: ‘Thais eat five meals a day with snacks in between and when we are not eating, we are thinking about our next meal’, this often preceded the additional comment; ‘it’s only funny because it’s true!’ Few could blame them, Thai cuisine is truly delicious, their street snacks are legion, and legendary and their love of food is glorious, as is their sense of humor. In the West, we have this long held notion of three-square meals per day, with the early evening meal with family being the main meal of the day. However, just as what we eat has changed over time, when we eat, and the emphasis we place on each meal has changed dramatically. For many, particularly Greeks, Romans and Mediterranean cultures, a large midday meal, followed by a nap to pass the hottest period of the day, was the normal practice. Food historian Ivan Day told the BBC, “The whole day used to be structured much differently; people got up much earlier and they went to bed much earlier.” Making maximum use of natural light was of paramount importance. Dinner was always the main meal, but back in the Middle Ages this would be taken during late morning. Through the centuries, as dinner kept getting pushed back later and later, (by the time gaslight was common it would replace the ‘supper’ meal) a new term was needed for the midday meal, and lunch it was to be. It should ne noted that in some cultures, the midday meal is still the most important meal of the day and is often still referred to as ‘dinner’. Nicola Twilley on her well-researched and thoughtful website: www.ediblegeography.com , wrote that ‘whilst lunch may be the second meal of the day, it was the last of the three daily meals to rise above its snack origins to achieve that status.’ As early as 1591, the term was being used to mean a ‘thick piece, hunk or chunk’ as in a “lunch of bacon”. Twilley notes that in the 1755 edition of ‘A Dictionary of the English Language’ by Samuel Johnson, the word lunch still meant “as much food as one’s hand could hold”, suggesting it remained something of a snack, (depending on the size of one’s hand). According to the Oxford English dictionary, the modern use of the term lunch did not appear until 1829 and it was not until the latter half of the 19th century that we were sitting down to a proper midday meal known as lunch. For the working classes this would often involve downing tools and sitting to eat something brought from home, or eating in a staff canteen on site. The French painter Édouard Manet, (1832 – 1883) was one of the first to depict everyday, modern life in his works, and he remains a pivotal figure in the transition from Realism to Impressionism. In 1863, Manet submitted a work to the French government for inclusion in its biannual Paris Salon, which was to house works by the most important artists of the day at the Academie des Beaux-Arts. Artists from all over Europe submitted their pieces for consideration and a jury determined who was to eventually be selected. According to ‘Paris impérial: La vie quotidienne sous le Second Empire’, A medal from the Salon was assurance of a successful artistic career; winners were given official commissions by the French government, and were be sought out for portraits and private commissions. Since the 18th century, paintings were classified by genre, following a specific hierarchy; history paintings were ranked first, followed by the portrait, the landscape, the genre scene, and the finally, still life. The jury at the Academy of Fine Arts, was extremely conservative; looking for near-photographic works and those with an idealized realism. In the selection of 1863, the judges managed to reject a third of all the work submitted, including pieces by artists such as Paul Cezanne, Camille Pissarro, James Abbott McNeill Whistler and of course, the work by submitted by Manet. In an attempt to appease these spurned artists and avoid public backlash, Emperor Napoleon III hastily arranged for a separate exhibition, known as the “Salon des Refusés,” which would be held at the Palais de l’Industrie. Napoleon’s office issued a statement, published in ‘Le Moniteur’ on 24 April 1863.: “Numerous complaints have come to the Emperor on the subject of the works of art which were refused by the jury of the Exposition. His Majesty, wishing to let the public judge the legitimacy of these complaints, has decided that the works of art which were refused should be displayed in another part of the Palace. The journalist Emile Zola reported that more than a thousand visitors a day visited the Salon des Refusés and that in the crowded galleries where ‘the refused’ paintings were hung, the rooms were full of the laughter and ridicule of the spectators. However, this critical attention also legitimized the emerging avant-garde in painting and the Impressionists successfully exhibited their works outside the traditional Salon beginning in 1874. Subsequent Salons des Refusés were mounted in Paris in 1874, 1875, and 1886, by which time the popularity of the Paris Salon had declined, people were now more interested in Impressionism. The work Manet submitted and was ‘refused’ he titled, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, (The Luncheon on the Grass) a large painting depicting two clothed men and two women, one half dressed, the other naked, having lunch on the grass in a wood. Its first showing sparked outrage, it was considered vulgar and indecent, but it also heralded a new type of painting and marked the single biggest … Read more

Khema is on the Go

The Clothes Iron Flatiron Meridian Cambodia is a state-of-the-art, integrated development that incorporates prime office space, hospitality, and over 300 units of five-star, serviced residence. This new Phnom Penh landmark is inspired by the iconic Flatiron building located at 175 Fifth Avenue, in Manhattan, New York City. The original Flatiron was designed by Daniel Burnham and Frederick Dinkelberg; it was one of the tallest buildings in New York City upon its completion in1902. The NYC Flatiron building sits on a triangular block formed by Fifth Avenue, Broadway, and East 22nd Street. The name “Flatiron” derives from its resemblance to a cast-iron clothes iron. The Flatiron was designated a New York City landmark in 1966, added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1989. It is one of the most photographed, filmed, and recognizable buildings in the world today. The Flatiron Meridian, Phnom Penh, is a 41 storey building with a total gross floor area of about 84,000 sqm; featuring an ultra-modern, high tech design, beautiful landscaping, open living and community spaces, and a breathtaking sky balcony. This unique and stylish project is about to open, and offers a highly bespoke and contemporary living and working experience by combining the management and expertize of three specialist groups: The Ascott Group for property and office management, the Citidine Group for Residential and ‘Apart’otel’ management, and the Thalias Group for food and beverage operations. This allows for three of the leading companies in their field to bring their ‘best game’ to the property and deliver a truly exceptional experience for tenants, guests and the whole city. The Third Place Urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg was born in the United States of American in 1932, he is Professor Emeritus at the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at the University of West Florida in Pensacola. He received his B.S., Mankato State University, 1954; M.A. at the University of Minnesota in 1965; and his Ph.D. at the same University in 1968. He is known for coining the term the ‘Third Place’ and writing about the importance of public gathering spaces in community-building, and for a functioning civil society, democracy, and civic engagement. Our ‘first place’ is the home and our ‘second place’ is our workplace, (where people often spend most of their time). In either of these spaces we are concerned or preoccupied with family matters, chores, tasks, and matters relating to our loved ones or careers. Oldenberg saw these ‘third places’ -a café, a bakery, a wine bar or beer garden- as anchors of community life, where we facilitate and foster broader, more creative interactions. These are places where we relax in public and where we not only encounter familiar faces but where we also can make new ones from outside our circles. Oldenberg said that “third places offer a neutral public space for a community to connect and establish bonds. Third places “host the regular, voluntary, informal, and happily anticipated gatherings of individuals beyond the realms of home and work.” We may well recall great European films, where a minor character in an old black and white movie sits in the recesses of a French boulangerie, or Italian café and spouts philosophy to an intrigued ingénue. Third places like these are also important meeting points for ideas and conversations and in Cambodia especially, have become places where students can gather to study with friends or where young entrepreneurs can gather together to discuss, weigh up, and test concepts. Scholars determined that Oldenburg’s third place needed eight characteristics: Neutral ground Occupants of third places have little to no obligation to be there. They are not tied down to the area financially, politically, legally, or otherwise and are free to come and go as they please. A Leveler (a leveling place) Third places put no importance on an individual’s status in society. One’s socioeconomic status does not matter in a third place, allowing for a sense of commonality among its occupants. There are no prerequisites or requirements that would prevent acceptance or participation in the third place. Conversation is the main activity Playful and happy conversation is the main focus of activity in third places, although it is not required to be the only activity. The tone of the conversation is usually light-hearted and humorous; wit and good-natured playfulness are highly valued. Accessibility and accommodation Third places must be open and readily accessible to those who occupy them. They must also be accommodating, meaning they provide for the wants of their inhabitants, and all occupants feel their needs have been fulfilled. The regulars Third places harbor a number of regulars that help give the space its tone and help set the mood and characteristics of the area. Regulars to third places also attract newcomers and are there to help someone new to the space feel welcome and accommodated. A low profile Third places are characteristically wholesome. The inside of a third-place is without extravagance or grandiosity and has a homely feel. Third places are never snobby or pretentious, and are accepting of all types of individuals, from various different walks of life. The mood is playful The tone of conversation in third places is never marked with tension or hostility. Instead, third places have a playful nature, where witty conversation and frivolous banter are not only common but highly valued. A home away from home Occupants of third places will often have the same feelings of warmth, possession, and belonging as they would in their own homes. They feel a piece of themselves is rooted in the space, and gain spiritual regeneration by spending time there. Khema Go Is all about ready-to-go: fresh, quality ingredients, artisan bakery, gourmet sandwiches, handmade charcuterie, fresh salads, and creative, delicious pastries and desserts, all combined with cold-pressed juices, fine teas and house-roasted coffee. In the busy, fast-paced lives of professionals inside the offices of the Flatiron Meridian tower, or those people living in and enjoying the rapidly growing Srah Chak sangkat, … Read more

Charcuterie Chic

There is nothing quite like an extensive charcuterie board, resplendent with all the trimmings and accompanied by a bottle of good wine, to excite one with the promise of a deep satisfaction to come. Charcuterie boards are -in the words of one of my hipster friends- ‘super-trendy’ right now. I use the term hipsters here not in the sense of the 1950s and 1960s beatniks or hepcats, but in the sense of the modern nostalgia miners who Chi Luu of Lingua Obscura describes as a sub-culture who “enjoy fossicking around in the past for cultural items, in an effort to attain authenticity and autonomy (always frantically one step ahead of the mainstream) and ultimately, an eponymous ‘hipness’. Arguably, rather than producing something novel, hipster culture re-samples from history and remixes it into something new.” Often, this remix involves stripping things bare and taking them back to their basics, things made small, by hand, simple pleasures, appreciated for their authenticity and a certain sense of intimacy conveyed by their artisanal nature. Whilst the modern interpretation of the Charcuterie board may not conspire to the ancient laws and rules of the Guild of Charcutiers, it certainly derives its inspiration here. Cured meats, salted, smoked or fermented, sausages, pate’s, rillettes, terrines, fruits -dried and fresh, pickled vegetables, nuts, perhaps some cheese; all harking back to a time when we had to preserve our foods to last through long winters, without access to seasonal ingredients. The curing of meat dates back to ancient times and was an important survival technique for prehistoric humans. In his monumental tome ‘Bibliotheca Historica’, Diodorus Siculus, (90BC-30BC) writes of Cossaei in the mountains of Persia salting the flesh of carnivorous animals, and the Ancient Greek philosopher and historian, Strabo (63BC-24AD) writes of people at Borsippa in Babylon, Iraq catching bats and salting them to eat. The Romans used a salted fat called salsamentum and the Roman gourmet Apicius speaks of making sausages with salt, garum, oil, and wine. “Apicius, the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts, established the view that the flamingo’s tongue has an especially fine flavor.” Pliny The Elder, Naturalis Historia, 77AD The Gauls sent large quantities of salted pork to Rome where different cuts were sold including has and sausages, the meat having been smoked as well as salted. The Belgae of Northern Gaul and the Ceretani of Spain were famed for the fatted, salted lambs and pigs and were the most highly prized meats in Rome. In Ethiopia, according to Pliny the Elder and in Libya according to Saint Jerome, the Acridophages salted and smoked crickets, which arrived at their settlements during the spring in great swarms. The smoking of meat was traditional in North America, where Plains Indians hung meat at the top of their teepees to smoke them above the fire. The Guild Whilst the emergence of artisan guilds can be traced back to the Akkadian Empire over 2000 years BC, they rose to great prominence in medieval France, where highly skilled culinary craftsmen who gave French its characteristic identity were regulated by the guild system, guilds were regulated by city government as well as by the French crown. A guild restricted those in a given branch of the culinary industry to operate only within that field. There were two groups culinary of guilds: one consisted of those that supplied the raw material such as butchers, fishmongers, grain merchants, and gardeners. Whilst the second group supplied prepared foods: bakers, pastry cooks, sauce makers, poulterers, and caterers. There was also a small number of guilds that were allowed to offer both raw and prepared foods, the charcutiers and rôtisseurs (purveyors of roasted meat dishes) would supply cooked meat pies and other dishes, as well as raw meat and poultry. The guilds provided training and set standards for those within their industry. The levels of assistant cook, cook and master chef were awarded and those who reached the level of master chef were of considerable rank and enjoyed a high level of income, as well as economic and job security. It was during this time that Pate became a masterpiece of the culinary arts, s doughy envelope, filled with all manner of glorious or rare meats and grandly sculptured and decorated for important feasts and ceremonies. The first French recipe -written in verse by Gace de La Bigne- mentions in the same pâté, three partridges, six fat quail, and a dozen larks. ‘Le Ménagier de Paris’ mentions pâtés of fish, game, young rabbit, fresh venison, beef, pigeons, mutton, veal, and pork, and lark, turtledove, cow, baby bird, goose, and hen. Bartolomeo Sacchi, also known as ‘Platine’, was a prefect of the Vatican Library, he gives the recipe for a pâté of wild beasts: the flesh, after being boiled with salt and vinegar, was larded and placed inside an envelope of spiced fat, with a mélange of pepper, cinnamon and pounded lard; one studded the fat with cloves until it was entirely covered, then placed it inside a pâte. In the 16th century, the most fashionable pâtés were said to be those of woodcock, au bec doré, capon, beef tongue, cow feet, sheep feet, chicken, veal, and venison. The Age of Exploration During the Age of exploration, salted meat kept sailors fed on protein over long voyages. The need to properly feed soldiers during long campaigns outside the country drove scientific research, and then, in 1975 a confectioner named Nicolas Appert, after a bit of experimentation developed a method of protein preservation that in France still bears his name, ‘appertisation’. A preservation process for long-term storage of food, involving its sterilization in an airtight container by heat treatment, followed by hermetic sealing. This led to the creation of canned, salted meat products such as corned beef and allowed for the long-haul shipment and storage of many cured and processed meat products. The Chevaliers de Saint Antoine The Confrererie of the Chevaliers de Saint Antoine was founded in 1963 and is still in existence to this … Read more