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Say “Yes!” to Château Haut Blanville 1955

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A delicious wine from Languedoc? The region that has switched quantity for quality, and it shows in every sublime sip of this gorgeous wine… Long discounted as a lesser wine region, certainly compared to the behemoths of Bordeaux and Burgundy, the Languedoc region skirting France’s sunny south coast is experiencing something of a renaissance these days. Indeed, the Languedoc is touted by wine-goddess Jancis Robinson as France’s best-value wine region. It is true that in the past Languedoc was more interested in quantity than quality, once accounting for almost a third of the entire country’s annual production, but times have changed, and so has the quality of wines that can be found there. And that includes Château Haut Blanville’s 1955, a superb, award-winning and consistently highly rated red wine that you will find at Khéma’s outlets in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. But first a little about the region. The Languedoc is on the western side of the large Mediterranean coastal area reaching from the Spanish border towards Provence on the east. Known as the Occitanie region, it owes its name to the language Occitan, in which oc is the word for ‘yes’, hence Langue d’oc, ‘the language of yes’. Vines have been cultivated here since as early as 125 BCE, when the port city of Narbonne played an important role within the Roman Empire. But, when the Empire fell, wine production went down with it, until the Middles Ages when local monasteries cast their eye across the terrain and spied an opportunity. Wine has always played an important role in Christian religious symbolism, especially the Eucharist, in which the ‘body and blood’ (bread and wine) of Christ are consumed as a symbol of the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. One of those monasteries, the Abbaye de Valmagne, started cultivating wines almost 900 years ago and is still doing so today. Centuries later, Languedoc became an enthusiastic industrialiser, to its own cost in the end. Over-production saw weak, pale wines being eked out of the hillsides, which had to be blended with more robust imports in order to produce something commercially viable. And their emphasis on producing vast quantities of cheap table wine fell victim to the increasing sophistication of consumers’ palates, and the consequent collapse in demand. Over the last twenty years though, things have changed. Because land is relatively cheap here, Languedoc has attracted investors from all over France and the world. These and leading local winemakers have invested in state-of-the-art technology working in concert with time-honoured traditions to yield a diverse range of terroir-driven wines. The Languedoc AOC is now considered one of the fastest-growing in France, and Languedoc wines are today being celebrated the world over by consumers looking for exceptional quality and value. One of these, Grés de Montpellier, was established in 2005 for red wines mainly made from Syrah and Mourvèdre with Grenache Noir in a sweep of hinterland to the west of Montpellier, an area with long, hot summers and relatively mild winters, and generally cooled by breezes from the nearby Mediterranean Sea. And this is where we find Château Haut Blanville’s single six-hectare parcel dedicated to producing Syrah grapes for their 1955 label. The West Baray is more than 250 times bigger than the single parcel from which 1955’s grapes are cultivated. Syrah is also known as Shiraz, usually when referring to New World wines. However, although the two grapes are functionally the same, the Old World Syrah tends to be lighter and leaner, with finer tannins. In other words, it’s not as ‘beefy’ as you might have experienced with New World Shirazes. However, Château Haut Blanville’s Syrah is still pretty full-bodied, with robust tannins and acidity. The result is a deep, berry fruit-driven wine with a lively aroma blending hints of fruit, dried plums, vanilla and liquorice. This wine is soft and balanced in the mouth, and finishes with freshness and a silky finesse. This is a wine for a flavour-packed meal that can match its mettle. Think Beef Wellington or a Steak Frites Café de Paris, Lamb Shank or a simple Toulouse Sausage with Potato Purée. And don’t forget, you don’t have to dine in to enjoy our wines. We sell all of them for consumption off the premises too!

The Best of Siem Reap at your Fingertips

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A town so full of culinary and creative treasures it’s impossible to find them all in one short trip. Step forward the treasure hunters at Taste Siem Reap… It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been in Cambodia, whether you were born here or arrived on yesterday afternoon’s flight from Bangkok, there is always so much more to discover, and that is as true of Cambodia’s unique culinary landscape as it is of its cities, forests and mountains. And by far the easiest way of finding out more is to let someone else who knows that landscape intimately do all the thinking, planning, organising, scheduling, transporting and everything else for you. In other words, a food or discovery tour. Taste Siem Reap has been doing exactly that for the last five years and they have developed a whole range of tours that are designed to help their guests find the best of Siem Reap, whether they’re into art, shopping, cocktails, vegan food or a delicious taste of Cambodia. The creation of Evi-Elli La Valle, Taste Siem Reap was born out of her frustration at the number of tourists who (used to…) come to Cambodia but only stay for three nights. There’s no way anyone can appreciate even a fraction of what Siem Reap has to offer in such a short space of time, so she figured out a way to help people experience as much as possible in the time that they have. “Why limit yourself to one venue for the evening when you can dot around town trying a few different places in one night? The size of Siem Reap, and its beautiful new roads, make the tours possible and it’s usually only five or ten minutes from one place to the next.” The Taste dining tours are constructed exactly like an ordinary meal is, with an aperitif, starter, main course and dessert. The only difference is that each course is enjoyed in a different venue, each of which is selected for its excellence in a particular domain. For Evi-Elli, offering a great food experience is at the heart of her tours, but great food is a full-sensory experience which is why she seeks out venues that offer beautiful environments and careful attention to service too. “I want our guests to come away with a taste of the best of our little town,” says Evi-Elli. “People often like to do our tours on their first evening, as give a little orientation of the city. And the next day, they almost always go back to their favourite place on the night.” The three-course Khmer Discovery Tour includes an opportunity to savour the officially legendary Amok prepared by Sugar Palm, founded by Kethana Dunnet, before finishing up at Malis for dessert which will always include one of our signature dishes, the Kampot Pepper Crème Brûlée. “I think it’s so important to end on a high, so Malis is the perfect dessert spot,” says Evi-Elli. The Khmer Discovery Tour has been instrumental in dismantling wide-ranging misconceptions about Cambodian food. But Taste Siem Reap offer more than that. Whether your passion is food, or cocktails, art, shopping or finding out about the divine little out-of-the-way places that so many visitors to Siem Reap never discover (and more’s the pity for them), there’s something to be found in what they have put together. “We recently had Cambodian guests who had never heard of Theam’s Gallery or been to any of the places that we visited,” says Evi-Elli. “For them, it was such a great alternative for an evening out in Siem Reap”. Until recently, all of Taste Siem Reap’s tours ran in the evenings, but they recently launched a new daytime tour which blends contemporary art, French and Khmer cuisine and a chance to discover Siem Reap’s best-kept secrets, including two of the loveliest garden restaurants in Siem Reap, Le Cul de Sac and Endora. Evi-Elli is also the brains behind Satu which can be found at FCC Angkor by Avani. This is a one-stop shop for some of the best design brands in Siem Reap and Cambodia, including Eric Raisina, Garden of Desire, Ammo, Herbal Kulen and Jaya Organics. There so many more that it’s frankly impossible to give a true impression of the range here. But you can always find out more by joining one of Taste Siem Reap’s tours… More information on: www.tastesiemreap.com

Escape, luxury and refinement at Koh Russey Villas & Resort

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The art and heart of luxury is seclusion, attention to detail, the personal touch, and beach volleyball… Just off the coast of Ream to the east of Sihanoukville, Koh Russey Villas & Resort on Bamboo Island offers a soothing return to nature far from city bustle and hustles, and a refined comfort and luxury under the care of a warm and attentive team. Just a quick speedboat trip from Ream Pier to the western side of the island, Koh Russey Villas & Resort is even quicker to make you feel as though you’re family. Indeed, better than family. When was the last time your relatives checked on your culinary and musical preferences and the level of care you prefer when you visited them? Your next mode of transport is an electric car, primed and waiting to whisk you to your room, or villa, and before you even know it the transition into a state of deep relaxation will be washing over you like a soft, rolling beach wave. The villas themselves are a sight to behold. All within 50 metres of the beach, the look and feel is modern Khmer architecture: spacious, minimalistic, airy, light-filled, cool, and incredibly smart with everything refined down to the finest details. With only fifty pavilions and villas, an innate feeling of seclusion and privacy prevails. Unlike other islands off the coast of Sihanoukville, Koh Russey is a real escape. The island is small, but it is defiantly not teeming with tourists and shacks and villas rubbing shoulders alongside one another. Only 15% of it is developed, and the rest is still a natural, forested preserve with beaches on the southern and northern shores. Which is not to say that there is nothing to do, although the urge to laze around and enjoy the moment should probably not be resisted. For health reasons of course. The private beach extends for 1.2 kilometres and makes for an ideal early morning walk to catch the sunrise, but if that feels too exposed, the resort property is covered with lush, impeccably landscaped gardens to wander around. A quarter of the resort’s villas have their own private pools, and for everyone else there is a magnificent 25-metre beachfront infinity pool. You’ll also find two restaurants and a beach bar, a spa, starlight cinema, gym and yoga studio, courts for volleyball, badminton and pétanque, and a ping-pong table. And there’s plenty to do in or on the water too, from kayaking, paddle boarding, snorkelling, fishing and more. For those who’d like to go further afield, the resort provides all-terrain bikes for exploring the island, or they can arrange tours to discover Kampot’s pepper plantations or Kep’s crab market, or a pagoda blessing and even a sunset cruise. Once you’re done with all of that, hunger is inevitable. Happily, the two restaurants offer a choice of international fine dining at Horizon, or more casual all-day fare at the Beach Shack with a menu offering authentic Cambodian dishes, Asian food, and Western comfort food. Freshly caught seafood can also be cooked up right on the grill. For something decidedly more romantic, you can also choose to dine in beachside seclusion, with your toes in the water, or enjoy a sublime seaside sunset picnic with friends and family. This is an exceptional resort on an exceptional secluded island. If you do make it down, you may likely see one of us already there!

Thalias Signs Strategic Collaboration Deal with Amara Capital

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“This is the first step of three that will propel Thalias to realise its vision of being recognised as the first choice for fine food lovers and hospitality in Cambodia,” said Thalias CEO Arnaud Darc after signing the agreement On 21 September Thalias Hospitality Group and Amara Capital announced the signing of a strategic growth investment deal between the two companies. The deal was the culmination of a long-term strategy by Thalias Group towards attracting inward investors in order to build upon our strengths and expand our activities both within and outside of Cambodia. “This is the first step of three that will propel Thalias to realise its vision of being recognised as the first choice for fine food lovers and hospitality in Cambodia,” said Thalias CEO Arnaud Darc after signing the agreement, adding, “I am confident this partnership will flourish with new opportunities for both our groups.” Amara Capital is a Cambodia-licensed fund management company run by entrepreneurs and investment specialists with extensive experience in the Kingdom. They offer small-to-medium-sized enterprises and real estate projects debt solutions and private equity investment geared towards strategic growth. Speaking after the deal was inked, Mr Darc added, “This investment, and the confidence it shows, is the fruit of our own long-standing investments in our company, the quality of our service and personnel and the integrity of our vision for the future, not just for Thalias, but also for our teams and, ultimately, of Cambodia. “Since its inception, Thalias has always been a forward-looking company. We believe in the future of Cambodia, and with that the future for our key sector: fine dining. We have always strived to set and attain the highest standards in creation, service and the growth of our company and the people that make it what it is. This deal represents recognition that we have succeeded in many of our goals, and provides the opportunity to expand those goals even further”. Amara and Thalias will also be collaborating on governance, business and finance strategies that will support the company as it moves forward. Thalias would like to thank Amara for their investment, as well as their confidence, knowledge and insights and we look forward to the development of this relationship in the years ahead.  

Putting the Fun into French at Alliance Française in Siem Reap

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Learning French can help Cambodians and other nationalities not just to engage in a different way with French speakers here in Cambodia, but also to open the space of French-language speaking parts of the world There are changes afoot at the Alliance Française in Siem Reap with the appointment of a new director, a fresh new website on the way and a huge range of language and cultural classes and activities to choose from. The coming changes are designed to make French more approachable, learnable and fun, helping students to connect with one another and with French language and culture and to build their skills in ways that will be, quite practically, unforgettable. So if you’ve ever thought about learning French through Manga, photography, Crossfit, yoga, cooking, and more, or by direct application to your profession, this is for you. Taking first things first, Nathalie Pinol will soon be taking over the reins as Director. She is in fact already a familiar face at the Alliance which she joined in May this year as a pedagogical coordinator. In that capacity, and subsequently as course director, she has already overseen a huge range of changes at the institution, administratively, professionally and also for the breadth of courses and services they offer. The public will notice a refreshed media library and roof terrace, French lessons given via Manga classes for example, and a host of activities. This promotion will allow Nathalie to develop her ideas even further, and really build on the Alliance’s strengths and ability to reach out and offer something fun, interesting and engaging. Rather than focusing on dry language learning classes (though they are available too! Some people like it that way), the Alliance is building on the energy, dynamism and motivation built up by people’s interests in specific subjects and the role this can play in keeping them engaged and helping to do the hard work of imprinting a language’s million intricacies on the brain. Languages are best learned when they are actually lived. Learning languages opens doors to a wider world of knowledge, experiences and perspectives. Learning French can help Cambodians and other nationalities not just to engage in a different way with French speakers here in Cambodia, but also to open the space of French-language speaking parts of the world. Then there are the possibilities for jobs in French businesses in Cambodia, and also a potential route to French-speaking universities, which tend to offer far better value for money than Anglo-saxon ones. Nathalie highlights the importance of university cooperation agreements that have been developed with the French Embassy, particularly in the medical and legal sectors. Thanks to these agreements, Cambodian students can access quality training in France, and Alliance France serves as a springboard for these students also thanks to support from the French Embassy in Cambodia. To support this new approach, the Alliance is also reconfiguring its website, and we’ll have more on that in November. In the meantime, check out the new schedule below, including prices. Please note that potential students who are struggling financially may be entitled to claim help to cover the cost of materials. French as a Foreign Language (FLE) ($30/month): Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 12pm to 1pm, then from 5pm to 7pm (depending on the students’ level); Every Tuesday and Thursday from 5pm to 6:30pm. New and Unseen at Alliance Française General French classes for Franco-Khmer children: every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 4:30pm to 5:30pm. Workshops other than FLE/ (35$/month) Khmer classes: every Monday and Wednesday from 1pm to 2pm. Every Tuesday: Francophone discovery class: from 4pm to 5pm; Crossfit class, from 5pm to 6pm; Manga workshop: from 6pm to 7pm; Photo workshop: from 6pm to 7pm; Yoga class according to B.K.S Iyengar: from 6pm to 7.10pm. Coming soon (Tuesdays): Khmer Culture Discovery Coming soon (Thursdays): Cooking workshop from 4 to 5:15 pm. To find out more, including details of how to enrol for the course of your choice, take a look at the Alliance Française Siem Reap Facebook page

Which Cat got the Crème Brûlée?

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In France, the first published reference to a crème brûlée comes up in a French text published in 1691. A hundred and seventy years later, it came to be associated with Trinity College at Cambridge At Topaz, the classic Crème Brûlée is, and ever will be, one of our most popular desserts, for very good reasons. It is a testament to the elegance of simplicity, and how a sense of luxuriousness comes from taking the time to get that simplicity right. And there is always something a little audacious and enticing about that first crisp crack of the spoon on the golden glass of the caramel topping in order to reach the smooth, creamy deliciousness beneath. That simplicity may be why France, England and Spain each seem to have independently developed their own versions of the dessert, though the Spanish pipped everyone to the post. In France, the first published reference to a crème brûlée comes up in a French text published in 1691. A few years later in England, a first mention appears in the early 1700s. A hundred and seventy years later, it came to be associated with Trinity College at Cambridge. It is reported that the first person to suggest the dessert to Cambridge’s kitchens was a student, from Scotland. His proposal was rejected with contempt. Whether he was so determined to make his point that it drove him to pursue his studies to the point of becoming a fellow of the university (a member of the faculty elite) in order to re-propose his dish, whereupon it was accepted with relish, is not clear. Though we wouldn’t be surprised… As a result of this association though, the dessert became known as Trinity Cream in England, and Trinity itself used to brand their versions with the college crest. But the Spanish appear to have beaten everyone to the whip, with a Crema Catalana which first appeared in Catalan cookbooks of the 14th century. There are however some difference between the Catalan version and the Crème Brûlée we know today. The French version is made with cream and flavoured with vanilla, while the Catalan version is made with milk, and typically flavoured with cinnamon and lemon zest. At Topaz we make it the classic French way, as you would expect. We’re very confident that simply trying it will make you feel like the cat that got the cream.

Cheese and Bread Doesn’t Need To Be a Blind Date

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The one hard and fast rule seems to be: never mash your cheese into the bread or you’ll scandalise all the French people at your table. Cheese and bread go together like the moon and the stars, or noodles and nom banh chuk. But we spend so much time thinking about the cheeses we want to enjoy that we often forget to think about the fact that the bread is not just the means for transporting the cheese from plate to mouth, but can be a flavour (and joy) accelerant that can really bring out the best in your cheese. While specific pairings don’t exist in the same way that you’ll find for cheese and wines, there are some rough guides you can follow to maximise the unique pleasures of a plate of bread and cheese, from the mildest to the strongest and everything in between. When pairing, you can either look for contrast or harmony and that can apply to both taste and texture. With the former, you might combine a soft, mild goats cheese with a crisp, strongly flavoured bread like toasted medium rye, or a firm, well-matured Comté with a soft, chewy and mellow baker’s baguette. Half-rye breads, especially ryes made with nuts such as walnuts, are highly recommended for the majority of cheeses in fact, although a full-rye might be a bit too strong. Most of the advice in this area though prefers to find harmony in the union, like an excellent marriage. Therefore, a sour and tangy sourdough is recommended for cheeses like Roquefort, and the more pronounced blue cheeses such as those from the Auvergne, Époisses, Munster cheese and mature goats cheeses. Meanwhile, the milder baguettes and loaves made with baker’s yeast, are suggested for the mellower cheeses such as brie, younger goats cheeses, firm Cantal, firm Emmental and Comté. Another great option for blue cheeses or mature uncooked cheeses such as Comté is to find a wholewheat bread whose nuttiness is able to work with the strength of the cheese, without being overwhelmed by it. Other fun pairings might include putting together a deliciously nutty Comté with a seedy or nut-studded bread, or a zesty and smooth young goats cheese with the soft-acidic tang of sourdough. Toasting the bread is a wonderful way to create texture and contrast with the cheese, though care should be taken not to over-toast the bread, or the aggressive flavour starts to outcompete the cheese. All that as it is, whatever bread you like is always the right bread to go with whatever cheese you like. The one hard and fast rule seems to be: never mash your cheese into the bread or you’ll scandalise all the French people at the table.

Feeling All at Sea about Bordeaux?

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The vineyards of this single region of France far exceed the acreage under vines of countries such as New Zealand and Germany, and are not far behind that of countries such as South Africa and Australia Whatever about drinking it, just thinking about wine can give you a headache if you don’t approach it with moderation. The history of wine goes back 8,000 years. There are more than 10,000 wine grape varietals in the world and even using the same grapes will produce different tastes in different parts of the world, depending on the soil, climate and methods used. And even then, how the wine tastes to you in the glass may depend as much on the lighting of the room you’re in as the actual taste of what’s in the glass. It’s a vast world of terroirs, traditions, technologies, climates, customs, varietals, variables, weird words and, frankly, weirder points of view. To sauvignon blanc fans, the scent of cat pee is to be welcomed, for example. This makes wine selection for a lot of people something of a shot in the dark based on vague ideas around preferences and unreliable indicators such as price. No wonder if it all feels very arcane, impenetrable and, frankly, intimidating. But as with so many things, building up bite-sized understandings around wine is one of those things that always yields wider insights than at first thought. Which brings us to Bordeaux, perhaps one of the least bite-sized wine-producing regions of them all. With 110,000 hectares under vines — around one and a half times the size of Pailin Province — the vineyards of this single region of France far exceed the acreage under vines of countries such as New Zealand and Germany, and are not far behind that of countries such as South Africa and Australia. On the other hand, they’ve only been producing wine for 2,000 years and the overwhelming majority of the near one-billion bottles of wine that Bordeaux produces each year are derived from just three grapes. So it already looks a little more manageable. In a global scheme of things at least. So here’s a whistestop tour of the regions you’ll find represented on Topaz’s menu. For the most part, Bordeaux wines are red. Indeed, many are surprised by a mention of white Bordeaux, which is not surprising as whites account for just 8% (around five million cases) of the annual production. We can save those for another day. For the reds with which most people are familiar, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon reign supreme, with Cabernet Franc trailing, importantly, behind. Between them, they account for 88% of all grapes cultivated in Bordeaux. Another three varieties, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere, account for just over 1% more of terrain. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are responsible for the gutsy fruitiness for which Bordeaux wines are famous, and also for their enduring appeal as wines for laying down for the future. These two grapes have been reliable bedfellows in Bordeaux, and beyond, for centuries with Cabernet Sauvignon’s tannins providing the deep flavour, austere structure and durability, which are in turn mellowed by Merlot’s lush fruitiness. The third wheel, Cabernet Franc, is lighter bodied with a distinct herby fragrance. But given Bordeaux’s size, and the consequent diversity in weather, soils and traditions, how these grapes express themselves depends a lot on where they’ve been cultivated. Bordeaux itself is divided by the Gironde Estuary, which splits as it approaches the city. This estuary is why you may have heard of Left and Right Bank wines from the region. On the Left Bank, Médoc is Bordeaux’s, and possibly the world’s, most famous wine district. Once nothing but unremarkable salt-marshes and pine forests, the marshes have long since been drained and the forests retained to help protect vines from the harsh Atlantic winds. Underneath, gravelly soil provides much needed drainage and heat retention for one the wettest and mildest parts of Bordeaux. Médoc is further divided between Bas-Médoc and Haut-Médoc (Low and High-Médoc). Bas-Médoc wines are generally noted for being easy-drinking, with less acidity and notes of berries, liquorice and roasted coffee. These can be drunk on their own, but are elevated when paired with rich red meats such as beef, lamb and duck, firm-flavoured cheeses such as Brie, Gouda and Comté, and robust desserts like tiramisu. If you’re looking for a quality wine, then you’ll want a Haut-Médoc, at the southern end of the Médoc flank. This is where you’ll find the ultra-prestige appellations, Margaux, Moulis, Listrac, St-Julien, Pauillac and St. Estèphe. This is where you’ll find wines that are deeper, more complex, acidic, with more structure and texture thanks to the tannins, and with notes of liquorice, blackberry and spices. This might be a bit strong to swill on its own, but goes beautifully with rich meats and cheeses, or perhaps something as simply but umami-rich as a mushroom omelette. Further south of the Médoc is Graves, which benefits from the same gravelly terrain as Haut-Médoc. However, they use more Merlot and Cabernet Franc in their blends to create wines that are more aromatic, but with good structure, and notes of chocolate, spices, vanilla and roasted coffee. Graves is also home to Pessac-Léognan, one of the youngest, but best known appellations. Over on the right side of the estuary you find Libournais, home to some of the most sought-after names in Bordeaux, in particular Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac. Here, Merlot’s and Cabernet Franc’s dominance gives robustly plummy wines with a gentler character than their Left-Bank cousins. Saint-Émilion is especially renowned for its deep, rich and “fleshy” wines, but the highly diverse soils and blends used mean that choosing a Saint-Émilion is not strictly a task for the light-hearted, or light-pocketed. Finally, we have Bordeaux Supérieur which is part of the Bordeaux AOC appellation. Bordeaux Supérieur are noted for their robustness and complexity, with generously fruity, floral and spicy overtones. This is one of the most wide-ranging appellations, covering a huge area of Bordeaux … Read more

The Sweet Finesse of Fleur de Sel

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Fleur de sel which means “flower of salt” in French, is regarded as the best salt money can buy, thanks to its elegant snowflake-like texture and, to many, its sweeter taste Salt, or the sodium it contains, is one of life’s essential building blocks. It is also one of the basic ‘tastes’ that define how we experience food, namely salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. All these tastes interact with one another in different ways, but salt is kind of like the ring in Lord of the Rings, “one taste to rule them all”. In other words, it is what is known as a universal flavour enhancer. This is because of its unique ability to make sweet foods taste sweeter, and savoury foods more savoury. How does it do that? At low levels, salt reduces bitterness, but increases sweet, sour and umami elements, which is perfect for sweet dishes, while at higher levels, it suppresses sweetness and enhances umami, which is great news for your steak. And while it might be tempting to think that salt is salt, because sodium, after all, is sodium, not all salts are strictly created equal. Fleur de sel which means “flower of salt” in French, is regarded as the best salt money can buy, thanks to its elegant snowflake-like texture and, to many, its sweeter taste. The tradition of making fleur de sel goes back thousands of years, and is still practiced in parts of France, such as the Guérande in Brittany, where it is collected after forming a thin, delicate crust on the surface of evaporating seawater. Given the delicacy involved in harvesting this mineral, it is still required to be done by hand, which explains why fleur de sel is so much more expensive than other salts. While flour de sel is laced with a range of natural minerals that give it its full flavour, it contains little to none of the magnesium that gives other salts their bitter flavour. Because of this delicacy and sweetness, and price, fleur de sel is very much a garnishing and not a cooking salt. It’s not one you throw willy-nilly into a pan for boiling pasta, for example. But its range of uses is still quite wide. Fleur de sel’s higher moisture content also means it melts more slowly than other salts, so when sprinkled on hot foot, it retains its crunchy texture adding another element to the sensory pleasure of each bite. But a little light sprinkle can really bring a whole new dimension to desserts too. A few grains sprinkled on top of a chocolate mousse, or perhaps a glutinous rice ball, will add a soft but enlivening zing without the bitter punch that a traditional salt delivers. In Cambodia, Fleur de Sel is now produced in Kampot which has the perfect weather conditions for producing it. There, the natural processes are also still followed with much of the work from harvesting to drying being done by hand. It is the mark of a truly fine table.

Tamarind Over the Ages

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In an article entitled “Tamarind in the Cuisine of Angkor’s Villages: From the Memoirs of Zhou Daguan to Today”, Cambodian anthropologist Ang Choulean has explored the role this unusual, tangy-sweet fruit has played in the preparation of Cambodian cuisine and condiments down through the ages. Tamarind’s best moments are during the hot, dry seasons of the year, when the fruits are ripe and easily peeled. At this stage of its life, the seeds have hardened and are not used, only the pulp, which has a very different taste from its young, unripe form. One of the advantages these fruits offer is that they can be kept for a long time, and enjoyed all year around. However, the tamarind fruit’s annual life cycle presents an abundance of opportunity for Cambodia’s chef. Choulean begins with the famous memoirs of the Chinese emissary, Zhou Daguan, whose record of his time at Angkor is one of the most important eye-witness accounts of life at Angkor during the reign of the Khmer Empire. While his records never attempt to deconstruct Cambodian cooking of the time, Daguan does take time to regret the absence of two staple sauces considered fundamental to Chinese cooking, namely soy sauce and vinegar. In so doing, he explains that when Cambodians want to add an acidic flavour to their cooking, as vinegar would, they instead used tamarind (ampil). Choulean elaborates on the types of Cambodian dishes whose dominant flavour is acidic, and integrate tamarind to achieve that end. He divides these into liquid dishes, namely samlor mchou, and crushed solid foods. Tamarind is also an integral ingredient to sauces that accompany certain dishes, such as grilled fish. He starts to explore the wider context of how tamarind is prepared and consumed today by taking us through the life cycle of the tamarind fruit. This brings us a variety of dishes, including a sauce made with young tamarind fruits, which are crushed along with shallots, garlic mam herb, chillies and salt to create a crushed paste for a sauce to accompany grilled fish. Moving on in the year to September, the fruits in the tamarind trees have ripened and sweetened, but of greater interest to cooks are the leaves which they combine with lemongrass, galangal, garlic, prahok, salt, palm sugar, and finally holy basil which is saved to last, to create a warming samlor mchou, perhaps with crab. Next Choulean imagines the a Khmer household preparing a sort of inter-meal snack of papaya salad. He notes that Khmer papaya salad is quite distinct from its Thai and Laotian counterparts thanks to its use of prahok instead of shrimp paste (Thailand) or padèk (Laos). It should be remembered that a Khmer bok l-hong, prepared off the shelf, is very different from Thai som tam or Lao tam mak houng. The use of prahok instead of kapi (shrimp paste in Thai) or fish sauce (Laos) is one of its characteristics. Another distinction in the preparation of this salad is that while in Thailand and Laos, the acidic element of this salad is introduce by using lemon, or lime, in Angkor that end was achieved by the addition of tamarind. At the time of year of which Choulean is imagining, January, his cooks are having to make do with ripened tamarind fruits which lack the starp tang of their immature selves. Be that as it may, Choulean’s cooks carry on with crushing their ingredients with the crumbled flesh of a grilled fish and with grated papaya, all of which is to be served with peanuts and a set of vegetables. Choulean then describes the making of a fermented fish dish which is served with slices of fresh ripe tamarind. “The taste of this fruit in its entirety is sought here, the harshness and bitterness of the seeds correcting the acidity of the pulp…” Choulean brings his discourse back to Daguan to demonstrate continuity in the use of tamarind to introduce sour, acidic flavours even though, over the centuries since his visit, soy sauce and vinegar have become entirely integrated into the Cambodian culinary landscape. Indeed many households make their own vinegar. Adapted from an article in: Cambodge Mag