The magic of Angkor

This is the story of a weekend spent by a couple who had travelled from Phnom Penh to enjoy a break in the provincial capital, which inevitably included a dinner at one of the temples of Khmer cuisine: The Malis Siem Reap. It’s early, very early, on this Saturday morning. The sound of birdsong echoes through the wide open windows in a still quiet Phnom Penh. It’s a calm that contrasts with the excitement that has gripped the household, as everyone, still wide awake, scurries about in a hustle and bustle to make the final preparations for the big departure.   Destination Siem Reap  It’s been a long time since our family has travelled, so this long weekend less than 300 kilometres from the capital has taken on an air of adventure and exoticism. It’s been over a year since we last visited the temple city. Friends, articles and comments on social networks have given us a glimpse of several scenarios that we are now preparing to verify with our own eyes. What haven’t we heard in heated discussions about this city? From ‘a field of ruins’ to the birth of a smart city, from economic disaster to ‘business (almost) as usual’, everyone seems to have a strong opinion on the situation the city is currently experiencing.  So for the past week, we’ve been preparing our future activities. Sophary, my wife, dreamed of a photo shoot in the deserted temples to immortalize our little family forever. Pierre, at the height of his teenage years, was incredibly keen to persuade us to take him to Wake Park. Neither Sophary nor I knew what such a place could be like, but Pierre, with stars in his eyes, repeated the feverish tale his classmates had told him. Go to Wake Park… Kanya, a tireless defender of nature, wanted to see the elephants of the Kulen sanctuary up close. As for me, I wanted to finally discover these famous floating villages, which I had never been to before. The warnings about these particularly touristy places had put me off until now, but perhaps it was time to revise my preconceptions. What is certain is that as we prepared for our trip, we suspected that Siem Reap would not be quite the ghost town that some people had described to us.   Departure  After a final tour of the apartment to make sure everything was in order, we boarded the taxi waiting for us at the foot of the building. With the arrival of Pierre and Kanya, the picturesque but uncomfortable bus journeys across the country had given way to a higher standard. Quiet, fast, air-conditioned, a flexible itinerary, and a relatively low fare for this type of service convinced us to take the taxi option. As we drove out of Phnom Penh, as we do every time we leave the capital, I couldn’t help but think of all the riches this country has to offer. As the landscape unfolds, our imaginations are suddenly fired with the desire to discover new things. The coastline and its still secret places protected from developers, the provinces with their exuberant nature, the remote temples, the waterfalls, the little dirt tracks…  We stop in Kampong Thom for a quick chat over coffee about this little-known province. And we promise to discover the charms of the surrounding countryside, the beauty and spirituality of Phnom Santuk and the Sambor Prei Kuk complex, a constellation of pre-Angkorian temples dating back to the 7th century, on our next trip. In any case, Kampong Thom can no longer be reduced to a simple stopover between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap: with this conclusion, Sophary and I finish our coffee and call back the children, who have long since finished their coconuts and gone to stretch their legs in the restaurant courtyard.   Siem Reap at last  After five hours on the road, we were delighted to arrive in Siem Reap. We made our way to the Sofitel, which would be our base for the duration of our stay. The hotel’s first-class comfort, shady gardens and huge swimming pool would not be enough to keep us in shape.     During the trip, the children gradually formulated new requests, which were added to the “list of things to do”. Seduced and intrigued by these initiatives, we did not have the heart to refuse, while wondering if we would be able to carry out all these projects in such a short time. As soon as we had freshened up and put our luggage in the spacious room, everyone agreed to go out for lunch. After a quick lunch, Sophary and I exchange a few knowing glances as the holiday centres are discussed. In addition to accommodation, all kinds of activities are regularly organised for all ages. A stay in Siem Reap for our dear offspring, who could benefit from the company of children their own age, gives us a glimpse of the possibility of spending a few days alone. We promise to think about it for our next holiday, especially as Kanya and Pierre seem to have been won over by the prospect.  IFC Wake Park  The slightly stifling heat of the early afternoon pushes us into the tuk-tuk for the Wake Park, where the excited kids can let off steam for an hour. We were eager to find out what this place was like, even though Pierre was inexhaustible in his explanations: – It takes place on a large body of water and we do it like water skiing, but with a board. You attach your feet to it, you grab a handle and you go super fast and it’s great. You can slalom and everything, there are different courses depending on your level and obstacles to avoid if you know how to ride the board well. “And we can even do tricks, tricks? Yes, figures, whatever” A little worried, we console ourselves with the thought that it will always be less dangerous than skateboarding, which Pierre loves, … Read more