exotic

(ក្រូចសេីច) Citrus fruits are plentiful in Cambodia: oranges, limes, tangerines and mandarins can be found in abundance on market stalls and supermarket shelves. The most “exotic” of these fruits is undoubtedly the one known in French as citron kaffir, combava, citron combera or even “makrut” (this last name is a transcription of the citrus fruit’s Thai name). This fruit is thought to have originated in Malaysia. It is produced by a shrub 5 to 10 metres high, with a gnarled trunk protected by robust thorns. The shrub is found in all hot regions, from south-east Asia to Réunion and the Comoros. In China it grows in the southern provinces of Yunnan and Guangxi. The leaves are oval, with a shiny surface and a firm texture reminiscent of leather. They are unique in that they are paired lengthwise. The heavily blistered skin of the combava is quite distinctive. Known in Khmer as “kroch saech” (ក្រូចសើច), and to botanists under the binomial name Citrus hystrix, the kaffir lemon is an essential ingredient in Cambodian cuisine: no spice blend is complete without its leaves or peel. Cut into fine threads, the leaves are crushed with other spices to form the basis of Khmer curries. Whole or roughly chopped leaves are added to stir-fries or soups. Grated peel is also one of the spices added to many dishes. Only the flesh of the fruit is not used. The botanist Pauline Dy Phon, in her dictionary of plants used in Cambodia, mentions the existence of whole fruits eaten candied, but this preparation seems to be quite rare, as the Khmers interviewed said they were not familiar with this product. The juice of the kaffir lime is used to make a thirst-quenching drink and is an ingredient in many cocktails. However, this use is unknown in Cambodia. In addition to gastronomy, the kaffir lime tree and its fruit have many other uses: The root of the shrub is used in the traditional pharmacopoeia to treat certain minor ailments (stomach ailments, lung ailments). The peel is used to treat insomnia, dizziness, headaches and flatulence. The leaves, rich in beta-carotene, are said to be effective against nausea and help absorb bruises. The sap is said to help treat sore throats and even improve circulation. It is also traditionally used by the Khmers in shampoos, particularly for its insecticidal properties. The essential oil extracted from the leaves or fruit is used in aromatherapy to relieve depression and stress. In the health sector, it is used as a bactericide and fungicide. This shrub and its fruit are so promising that C. hystrix is mentioned in an FAO booklet published in Bangkok in 2001 entitled Under-Used Tropical Fruits of Thailand (this booklet can be downloaded here). Text by Pascal Médeville  Subscribe to the Thalias newsletter for exclusive offers, invitations to events and culinary news. Subscribe here Find out more: Discover our culinary world in more detail. Visit our website