This is the story of a weekend spent by a couple who had travelled from Phnom Penh to enjoy a break in the provincial capital, which inevitably included a dinner at one of the temples of Khmer cuisine: The Malis Siem Reap.
It’s early, very early, on this Saturday morning. The sound of birdsong echoes through the wide open windows in a still quiet Phnom Penh. It’s a calm that contrasts with the excitement that has gripped the household, as everyone, still wide awake, scurries about in a hustle and bustle to make the final preparations for the big departure.
Destination Siem Reap
It’s been a long time since our family has travelled, so this long weekend less than 300 kilometres from the capital has taken on an air of adventure and exoticism. It’s been over a year since we last visited the temple city. Friends, articles and comments on social networks have given us a glimpse of several scenarios that we are now preparing to verify with our own eyes. What haven’t we heard in heated discussions about this city? From ‘a field of ruins’ to the birth of a smart city, from economic disaster to ‘business (almost) as usual’, everyone seems to have a strong opinion on the situation the city is currently experiencing.
So for the past week, we’ve been preparing our future activities. Sophary, my wife, dreamed of a photo shoot in the deserted temples to immortalize our little family forever. Pierre, at the height of his teenage years, was incredibly keen to persuade us to take him to Wake Park. Neither Sophary nor I knew what such a place could be like, but Pierre, with stars in his eyes, repeated the feverish tale his classmates had told him. Go to Wake Park… Kanya, a tireless defender of nature, wanted to see the elephants of the Kulen sanctuary up close. As for me, I wanted to finally discover these famous floating villages, which I had never been to before. The warnings about these particularly touristy places had put me off until now, but perhaps it was time to revise my preconceptions. What is certain is that as we prepared for our trip, we suspected that Siem Reap would not be quite the ghost town that some people had described to us.
Departure
After a final tour of the apartment to make sure everything was in order, we boarded the taxi waiting for us at the foot of the building. With the arrival of Pierre and Kanya, the picturesque but uncomfortable bus journeys across the country had given way to a higher standard. Quiet, fast, air-conditioned, a flexible itinerary, and a relatively low fare for this type of service convinced us to take the taxi option.
As we drove out of Phnom Penh, as we do every time we leave the capital, I couldn’t help but think of all the riches this country has to offer. As the landscape unfolds, our imaginations are suddenly fired with the desire to discover new things. The coastline and its still secret places protected from developers, the provinces with their exuberant nature, the remote temples, the waterfalls, the little dirt tracks…
We stop in Kampong Thom for a quick chat over coffee about this little-known province. And we promise to discover the charms of the surrounding countryside, the beauty and spirituality of Phnom Santuk and the Sambor Prei Kuk complex, a constellation of pre-Angkorian temples dating back to the 7th century, on our next trip. In any case, Kampong Thom can no longer be reduced to a simple stopover between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap: with this conclusion, Sophary and I finish our coffee and call back the children, who have long since finished their coconuts and gone to stretch their legs in the restaurant courtyard.
Siem Reap at last
After five hours on the road, we were delighted to arrive in Siem Reap. We made our way to the Sofitel, which would be our base for the duration of our stay. The hotel’s first-class comfort, shady gardens and huge swimming pool would not be enough to keep us in shape.
During the trip, the children gradually formulated new requests, which were added to the “list of things to do”. Seduced and intrigued by these initiatives, we did not have the heart to refuse, while wondering if we would be able to carry out all these projects in such a short time. As soon as we had freshened up and put our luggage in the spacious room, everyone agreed to go out for lunch. After a quick lunch, Sophary and I exchange a few knowing glances as the holiday centres are discussed. In addition to accommodation, all kinds of activities are regularly organised for all ages. A stay in Siem Reap for our dear offspring, who could benefit from the company of children their own age, gives us a glimpse of the possibility of spending a few days alone. We promise to think about it for our next holiday, especially as Kanya and Pierre seem to have been won over by the prospect.
IFC Wake Park
The slightly stifling heat of the early afternoon pushes us into the tuk-tuk for the Wake Park, where the excited kids can let off steam for an hour. We were eager to find out what this place was like, even though Pierre was inexhaustible in his explanations:
– It takes place on a large body of water and we do it like water skiing, but with a board. You attach your feet to it, you grab a handle and you go super fast and it’s great. You can slalom and everything, there are different courses depending on your level and obstacles to avoid if you know how to ride the board well. “And we can even do tricks, tricks? Yes, figures, whatever” A little worried, we console ourselves with the thought that it will always be less dangerous than skateboarding, which Pierre loves, and that the park instructors will know how to channel his boundless energy.
On arrival, they put us at ease and offered to watch our teenager’s first attempts, which suddenly seemed less clever. A video is essential! Kanya, who prefers to swim, is already taking advantage of the fine sandy beach set up by the water. We sit down with Sophary around a fresh fruit juice and enjoy this little moment of peace, savouring the present moment punctuated by the children’s cries of joy.
Return and surprises
On the way back, we ask the tuk-tuk to drop us off at the foot of the Angkor Eye, which was still under construction when we last visited. All around are small shops selling pancakes, ice-cream and all sorts of treats in an atmosphere reminiscent of a funfair. We take our seats in an air-conditioned gondola and, at an altitude of 85 metres, discover the vastness of the city, bathed in the crimson light of the late afternoon.
In the distance, the rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see, the only limits being the Great Lake to the south and the Kulen Mountains to the north-east. The children’s “Wow!” tells us that we have made the right choice, that we are not insensitive to the beauty of the landscape and the romance of the situation. Whatever your age, a ride on the Ferris wheel is always a bit of a miracle.
By the time we got back to the hotel, the day was well underway and night was beginning to fall on a city that was sometimes hard to recognise. The disappearance of the tourists has something to do with it, of course: the absence of buses and the traditional ballet of tuk-tuks is immediately noticeable.
The programme
We decided to enjoy the splendour of our Sofitel room and dine in one of the hotel’s two restaurants. Having been up since 5 a.m., we are beginning to feel tired, especially as tomorrow promises to be even busier than today. On the agenda: temples accompanied by a professional photographer, elephant trekking, picnic in the Cambodian countryside and a Khmer massage. We discuss the programme over a few cocktails, listening to Diego and his guitar, the perfect end to this first day in a city that never ceases to surprise us.
In the early hours of the morning, the room, still asleep, is buzzing with activity. No half-baked graces today, we must take advantage of the morning’s freshness and, above all, its exceptional clarity. Because this half-day will be dedicated to a walk through the temples, accompanied by photographer Régis Binard, who will know how to find the right places to take photos that will remain forever in the family archives. Just imagine! Deserted temples, a thousand miles from the mass tourism that has taken them over, explored in the company of a photographer who knows them like the back of his hand: this is a dream opportunity and an incredible chance to seize.
The magic of Angkor
So here we are, in an instant, walking down the central aisle of Angkor Wat, posing among the apsaras and devatas that adorn the walls, walking hand in hand, following the discreet but confident instructions of Regis. After years of exploring the temples, he takes us to the most secret corners, where he creates magnificent images.The magic of Angkor… Children run and play hide-and-seek among the ruins, while we admire these magnificent monuments, undoubtedly one of the most majestic achievements of mankind.
As soon as the photo session is over, a little dazed by the sun and the heat, our heads spinning in the face of such an abundance of masterpieces, we decide to say goodbye and go back to our room to freshen up. Kanya becomes increasingly impatient and keeps asking us when we are leaving.
Meeting the elephants
And with good reason! In just half an hour, after a light meal, we will be on our way to the elephant forest, which is located not far from the town centre, at the foot of the Kulen Mountains. This is where the dozens of pachyderms that loyally transported tourists around the temple grounds found refuge, a practice that has recently been banned. Enjoying a well-earned retirement, the elephants spend peaceful days, disturbed only by the presence of visitors who come to walk alongside them and admire them.
And the word is not over-used, as the reaction of Kanya proves, who, with stars in his eyes, will admit to us on the way back that this is the happiest day of his life. Nearly 6 hours in the company of these gentle giants, crowned by a picnic in their presence, will have given everyone unforgettable memories.
On the way back, the aches and pains and the accumulated fatigue decided to treat ourselves to a moment of extreme relaxation. Leaving the children at the hotel, we opted for an invigorating formula at Bodia, one of the best massage brands in the Kingdom. Nothing less was needed to wake us up and here we are, at the exit, floating on a cloud of well-being.
Fusion and class dinner
We decide to extend this special moment and end the day in style with a dinner at Malis, which offers the best of Khmer gastronomy. Our minds and bodies filled with sun and images, we sit down in this temple of cuisine to enjoy a menu that will crown our holiday. We carefully choose the dishes created by Chef Luu Meng, who has brought a personal and refreshing touch to Cambodian specialities.
Our table parade included a green mango salad and smoked fish, moringa soup, Takeo sausages, a delicious samlor korko, chicken curry and lobster marinated in a sauce of spices and prahok. A certain notion of happiness. The next day we enjoyed a relatively late night and a moment of relaxation by the pool. I cast a furtive glance at the clock: in just over an hour a driver will take us to the edge of the Grand Lake, to the pier, towards Mechrey.
This peaceful floating village, which seems to stand apart from time, can be reached after travelling a few miles by boat. Hair blowing in the wind and smiles on our faces, we pass the fishermen’s boats as they skilfully manoeuvre between the water hyacinths. Another life unfolds before our eyes, far, far away from the one we are used to in Phnom Penh. During the tour, our guide explains the constraints of life on the lake, as well as the advantages for the local people, most of whom remain attached to this way of life. After passing the pagoda, the last permanent monument, we are in the middle of what is known as the “main avenue” of Mechrey.
We stop in the middle of the stalls, which double as homes, to chat with the villagers and decide to share their table for lunch. Soon a crowd forms, not to take advantage of the tourists that we are, but to exchange words and glances, the presence of city dwellers being something unusual enough to be noticed. We then return to our boat for a trip around the lake, always accompanied by our inexhaustible guide. It is with a heavy heart that we know we will have to return to the capital this afternoon, bringing an end to this fantastic weekend.
Siem Reap, life still goes on
Siem Reap does not live solely on tourism, but this activity still represents a large part of the income of the city and its province, much more than in Phnom Penh. But life still flows in the streets, in the markets, in the many cafés frequented by students, in the restaurants… A strange sensation that we discuss for a while with Sophary, each of us trying to imagine what the city might look like when we return.
And we will certainly be back sooner than expected to enjoy the temples, the surrounding nature, the walks along the river and so many other activities that have been added to the list we started before our stay. Hesitant and uncertain at first, this list gradually filled one, then two pages and is certainly not finished. Siem Reap, what to do there besides the temples? The answers are as numerous as they are varied. So see you soon, Siem Reap, for another stay that will no doubt be full of pleasant surprises.
Photo credit: Rémi Abad, Malis Siem Reap, Sofitel, Bo Nielsen, Christophe Gargiulo, Bodia
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